[Julian Klepacki]

Yeah, a photo here would speak volumes.

The red arrows indicate what was fouling.

started it up to check all was OK. At first i had no fuelpump priming noise. About to start looking if i disturbed a wire? Though i’d not been working anywhere that could have?

Then realised i had no ECU plugged in :/. Once plugged in all OK.

So thats me until spring DS-wise. Heading back to work early Nov, return early Jan.
I have some engine work to do over winter, but on another project.
I might investigate some bits & bobs, but mostly gather parts in prep.

[Julian Klepacki]

Regarding part #1 it can’t really be fitted incorrectly. it stays on the shaft #2 and flat-peice with slots isn’t flat, but angled, following the contour of base #6 it bolts to.

Anyway, it’s now sorted :).

I bought a cheap chinkwainese borescope to allow investigation without having to get too far under the car. I identified that the cable was still attached, the main worry and no bracketry appeared to be causing fouling. But needed a better view than what the scope gave.

I started working towards getting the car high enough, safely to get right under. Then thinking about it, as i have been constantly. I wasn’t sure, but the bow, #10, which on my car is a tube and not flat pressing. Was hanging down a little low? Though not improbably, seemed incorrect?

i concluded that when i replaced the assembly into the locator #4, the position of the pedal was too ‘vertical’. This would have placed the eye for the cable higher, slackening the cable. Still unsure about the lack of movement?

So before i started getting axle-stands out, raising suspensions etc, crawling around underneath. I thought, lets just try this: I free’d up the assembly by disconnecting #1. Pulling the assembly from the locator #4, allowing me to rotate the assembly, positioning the pedal a little further towards the floor.

Once relocated back into #4 with the new assembly position, all is good.

I think the lack of movement was caused by the pedal itself fouling on the base #6. Becasue it was initially placed too vertical, it allowed it to slide towards the bulhead just enough for metal to overlap and cause the problem. Should have taken a photo, simpler to see than explain. Car is put to bed now for the winter all covered up.

[Julian Klepacki]

just to add, i didn’t remove the pedal. after removing the two screws that hold #1 to the base plate #6. i could tip the pedal end up just enough to massage #6 out. It was afterwards when i was cleaning/painting the floor the assembly got moved about too much and messed it all up.

[Julian Klepacki]

How did i not see 2.142/3 dwg? It’s only a couple of slides on from my incorrectly identified dwg?

Anyway, mmmm. I think i have two issues. firstly the eye on the cable is likely detached. especially is there is nohting on the end to prevent doing; c-clip etc?

when i looked at my photo of that end, it looks like it just ends at the bush, not seeing the arm continue due to the dark/contrast of the image. I couldn’t feel it as i was at the end of my reach with the car sitting on the deck.

secondly, i wonder if on the pedal side, that flat-end of the straight bar #2 that locates in #10 has come adrift? But you say you can see it, located and secure? Somehting is definitely preventing the pedal moving forward.

Before disturbing it all to process the floor it was all 100% functional, A-O.K.

I hope i can sort it out easy enough; get it on stands, get under and fiddle it correct? But i envisage it’s going to be a complete pain in the arse. I hope i don’t have to do anything obscene like remove the effin’ engine/box to do it? There seems to be no room to work/access whatsoever at the sides between the box & bulkhead where all the crap is?

[Julian Klepacki]

Thanks for that Paul.
At least they pointed me to some parts manuals, which i downloaded and extracted the following.

that depicts my throttle setup, though not identical.
mine doesn’t appear ot have anything at the end of the ‘bow’. Just the pivot into the bulkhead.
The above seems to have the throttle-cable/linkage?
I think mine, like in those threads you linked it is at the junction/conneciton of the straight pedal-bar and bow.

Anyway, it seems it’ll all be apparent when i get under the car and eyeball it. Which i’ll have to do to sort it out.

[Julian Klepacki]

My door seal channels need some attention. At first in my mind i was going to replace the lot. But after reading Paul’s blog on these. And taking advice from it. I concluded I was only going to replace those areas absolutely necessary and live with the areas that still, though not ideal, retain the seal(s).

Those areas rotted away completely and the seal free to flap about, is the very lower few inches at body-posts. Kinda adjacent to the sill. Both my C-posts at the very botton need replacing anyway.

There are other small areas around the door apeture that range from scabby to somewhat corroded. That thin lip appearing like torn paper. Here i intend to simply remove loose material, treat with hydrate-80, somehting like that. Primer, paint, clean up and live with it. Certainly for the near future anyway.

Factory? Maybe with the thinner, more easily manipulated channel and specific tooling, that i’m sure is comparable to Paul’s homemade tooling. The same approach was applied? Is there any other way?

I’m sure that you guys that have done the job, that took hours and hours, days. Could and would be ‘tuned’ to a fraction of the time if you had a few cars of experience under your belts?

1st car, days.
2nd car, half a day.
3rd car an hour.

Maybe citroen trained up folks with dummy channels/seals for a while before letting them loose on production cars?

[Julian Klepacki]

Looks pretty good.

So when you say “Twill Weave”, thats not your typical fibreglass-matting you are using? What is that exactly, is it just a fabric of sorts you are using instead of glass matt? Why not glass matt, too thick build up?

So you are going to prep it on the inside and paint it as the finish, yeah?

Why are you going against covering it with a textile of sorts? you could get that ‘plusher’ finish without the scope of sagging and water marks, that i conclude the oem ones suffer with you mention in the first post?

i’m not familiar with safari/break interiors at all, so i’m just asking Q’s off the hip.

[Julian Klepacki]

yes, 100% Paul.
The two ‘fingers’ of the seal, pointing downwards create the seal. I know you know this.
And that ‘mound’ of the seal, adjacent to the mid-knuckle of your index finger is what was impeding fitment on my initial install of seal/glass. Because the seal was mounted too low, as you say.

I wonder if it could be better to install the rear screen without the lower seal. So nothing obstructs the glass going forward allowing it to press into the seal as much as it will?

Then push/feed the seal in afterwards, as folks do with the crappy repro-seal? I have thjought of this, but concluded it would get real messy trying to do this & glue it in for security too? I wouldn’t want that seal held in by compression alone?

But then I conclude: Once those two tapered-clamps at the base of the screen are bolted in, positioned maximum inwards towards each other, lifting the screen up to highets position on the taper. And tightened down until clamps meet the bodywork, pushing the glass onto the seal max-position. It implies the screen is positioned as much as it can ever be? No more can be achieved without modifying those brackets; elongating slot, increasing rubber-packing etc?

[Julian Klepacki]

Peter, when you say silicon will ruin paint finish. Can’t it just be cleaned off with appropriate stuff; thinners, trich, mek even panel-wipe? Prior to any topcoat, no?

[Julian Klepacki]

Paul, you are 100% right about the lower seal positioning, as I found out after attentively glueing it all in place.

Only to see after much faffing with the glass and upper seal and concluding it was obstructing optimal fitment of the glass. I saw the seal touching the glass more on the ‘mound’ of the seal. I also had seal extending beyond the edge of the glass. Looked wrong. Also the lip that sits on the parcel shelf didn’t look right. Like it wouldn’t be pressing down enough on the shelf?

When i glued it on first time, i kinda let the seal sit where it placed itself naturally on that rolled upper-edge of the parcel shelf. But, then after above figured/concluded it needed to sit more inward on that rolled-edge. This would effectively position the seal-lips higher up and move the mound of teh seal inwards, away from the glass.

So I had to pull the glass again, and pull off the seal and glue it all back slightly inward on the ‘arc’ of teh rolled-edge. Yeah, it made a difference. I used the edge of teh glass as my reference and positioned the seal so the lip edge was flush with it. Again, not recalling what it was like before removal of everyhitng. This seeemd to be the right ‘finish’ for it?

Now you can see where the glass is touching the seal along that edge, much better.
Yeah, i expect some fun and games with sealant whilst attempting to get it all water tight?
It was water tight in that area before, as i never recall ever having ingress issues in that area?
Lets hope it can be again.

[Julian Klepacki]

i had to read up on pva release agent, as to me, pva was wood glue or stuff added to plaster/cement to aid bonding etc. Alcohol as opposed to Acetate?

I read pva lends itself where other agents are suitable, but are others an option; wax, sprays etc?
Good luck with plan B.

[Julian Klepacki]

i didn’t get what was going on here at first :/. But with pictures i geddit.
Ingenuous. So, is the plan to pop the matt out, then cover it with whatever?
Looking forward to seeing the results/progress.

[Julian Klepacki]

So, i seemed to have sorted my poorly fitting rear screen. I took the replacement out and compared it to the OEM i removed. Measurement wise it was the same or within 5mm, mostly the same. Those 5mm variances i can easily attribute to measurement error. I used like a tailors measure and having to manipulate around the compound-curves could easily introduce a few more mill here and there?

Anyway, I also compared physically, positioning them opposite to like give a mirror image in attempt to compare the curves. I’d say they were. Considering the relative simple way i could do it and trepidation of breaking one/them. In particular the new replacement. I concluded they were if not the same, a very very close copy. more than good enough. Confidence repros are good enough. On the rear anyway.

I then compared the upper-seal. They looked the same, profile, material and everything. I’d say the better nick used replacement i was fitting was OEM too? I went with that one again, but i trimmed a little off each end that over-hung the screen at the each end as i thouht this also could be contributing to issues. i left about 7mm extending, whereas before it was more like 15-20mm before.

one thing i noticed and previously concluded what the problem was that the screen seemed to be forced over to the near-side somewhat. This seemed to be done by the lower-seal? Looking at the car with everyhting removed, you can see a difference in the installation of parcel shelf. there is less gap between shelf moulding and bottom of C-pillar inner on the NS, shifting the screen over to that side? Hope that makes sense. It’s never been replaced and conclude it’s simply from build. They are quite poorly made afterall aren’t they?

So this time, i pulled out the lower-seal at the sides so the screen was free sit central without any side-to-side interference. It seems to have done it. It’s a much closer, tighter fit with only slight movement of seal at the sides, whereas before there was a lot. I’ll have to just push/poke the seal into place on those sides. I conclude it can’t be any better given the position of the lower brackets forcing the screen up & down? In fact with added additional ~3mm rubber strips to those brackets to place the glass just that bit further up & down. unfortunately i have no reference as to how ‘snug’ the seals were before i pulled it all apart?

One thing is I have a small gap between the inner upper seal and the parcel moulding. See below. These were also with the original installation, as i had to remove some mastic like material that had been placed in there? I will add some mastic/sealant there in attempt to seal it up there.

Off-side

Near-side

One thing with the repro screen is that the heated-element isn’t quite central on the screen. It’s about 10mm closer to the edge on the NS. The OEM screen was equal mesurements. This results in unequal visible positioning of it. I can live with that.

NS

OS

i’ve now given the floor areas a couple of coats of jotum 90, with some treatment in rusty areas with Hydrate-80 first. Awaiting delivery of a box of Silencoat butyl soundproofing pads, as i’ve used on the inner door skins and inner rear-wings.

i need address a missing captive nut for the drivers-side seat-base. it’s broken out. i will weld in a small plate with a nut welded to the back and touch up the jotum.

One thing that concerns me is that the accelerator linkage appears to have come undone? When i removed the panels around that area to gain access of the floor. I was careful to try and leave it undisturbed. But with having to move it now and then, it doesn’t feel right now and it looks to have come out from the hole in the NS g.box bulkhead?

Concluding it had disconnected i moved it right out the way for maximum access. I hope this is somehting i can easily reconnect? I recall a thread on here someone replacing a throttle cable having a nightmare with it? Any advice here welcome.

[Julian Klepacki]

i’m gonna get some of each and build up some spares.
even without the proper bodies, worth getting a compatible body, like that lucas part and make something useable. A must to have in the spares when travelling abroad or anywhere really in my book?

i’m lucky when i bouht my car it came with a lot of spares, a lot.
injection wise; fuel pumps, MAP sensor, throttle sensor and complete analogue control unit.

That reminds me i have circuit diagrams of the control unit and some other info about the pcb, identifying what areas control what. I’ll see if i can attach them to a post or email them to you if you’d liked them?

They were emailed to me from a guy called stuart, back in 2011. I suspect he is/was a club member and was compiling a infodoc on the injection system.

[Julian Klepacki]

200 ohm NTC Thermistors aren’ so common, but Mouser have a reasonable selection available.
would be worth getting and making up a spare air-sensor too?

https://www.mouser.co.uk/c/circuit-protection/thermistors/ntc-thermistors/?resistance=200%20Ohms&srsltid=AfmBOoqgNCNCD9QEsfFekRqefV4KejGSzjczZINm-DpvRVbcuUovgvx-

Simon, what/whose/which 2k NTC did you end up buying?

[Author]

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