Forum Replies Created
-
not much more to report on this other than i pressed the impeller shaft out.
It came out real easy. I use floor standing 30T press, but it took no force at all to push out.I’ll get some 12mm ground bar to replicate it, save messing about sleeving. filling those pits.
I did think, you could reverse the shaft and place the nice smooth end into the impeller. Those small bearings wouldn’t care about the pitted shaft.While i was at it, i took 0.3mm off the cast-seat to get rid of the rings/grooves.
Nice and smooth now. Plan to ‘lap’ the graphite seal to clean it up, shouldn’t take much.
Then decide do i put it all back together or try and implement an alternative seal?Made a stainless spacer for the bearings. Original, though fits on the shaft nice and runs smooth.
Is heavily corroded on the outside. Doesn’t really matter about that, but seeing as i was on the lathe…
Yes, I’ve come across those shaft-savers. Can’t recall the correct name.
I still think i’d have a go at removing the shaft from impeller before messing about with one of those?photo of the seal from the impeller side. You can see the rubber face that seals against the central-boss of the impeller. The spring within the cupped-body that applies tension to the sealing faces, both front & rear graphite when the pulley is pressed on. How far you press it on dictates that tension. There’s also an internal rubber face, about 10mm in length/width that seals around the shaft too. In fact that rubber part is like a rubber cylinder/boss/slug ~18mm OD, 12mm ID & 10mm thickness. Pressed into the brass housing.
photo of the seal fitted to shaft/impeller. Here the rubber-face sits against the impeller-boss. That thin lip you see is not the rubber-face, but part of the, looks brass housing. It (the lip) has the spring against it and it is that thin metal lip that pushes the rubber-face against the boss. Hope that makes sense?
I conclude that this seal is the ‘rotary’ part and spins with the shaft. So possibly a slightly pitted shaft could be compensated for with some, i’m thinking thread/pipe-sealant on the faces that contact the shaft & impeller-boss?
Photo of the pump housing from impeller side. So pressed into that bore goes the cast-seat. You can see one of the drain-holes to align with one on the seat. The graphite-face of the rotary seal then runs against the face of the seat
Photo showing the seal with graphite face, as would be installed, looking down the shaft. imagine that cast-seat in there with two faces together.
The threads on the following post…
https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/dspecial-waterpump-seals.151663/
talk about it, it’s mentioned that repro pumps use integral-bearings and appear to be difficult or not possible to press apart? Look to be a simpler non-serviceable design from what folks say? I think i’ve found a possible alternative seal based on thread #13 and this type ’68’ seal that is mentioned.
It does seem a lot of phaff to modify in order to take an alternative seal; machining parts to fit etc. But, I suppose if time, facility and ability is to hand, then why not have a go? Forgetting the pulley for now. I guess as long as the pump-body and impeller are intact all else is replaceable? Even the shaft could be remade, if desired. One above is a little pitted around where it passes through the seal. Not sure that matters too much as there is nothing sealing around that shaft area. Only with the rubber-lip at the shaft/impeller fit.
I’m tempted to have a go at pressing the shaft out. I think supported properly on the central boss, bit of heat maybe and the shaft should come out easy with impeller intact?
Bearings are easy, can’t recall the exact numbers, but a few quid from anywhere. I’d definitely go with the best fully sealed available. They’re pretty cheap.
keeping it simple, I thought the same about the seal: Resurface the cast-seat and possible lap the graphite face on the seal itself? Not visible from my photo’s, but the seal has a cuped-spring affair and a rubber lip that sits against the face of the inner-boss of the impeller. Correct amount of preload should be put on the spring for optimal seal/wear characteristics. I don’t know how you’d set that up with an alternative seal. You’d have to get the dimensions/spec from seal manufacturers how to set them up?
I should have measured how deep the impeller shaft was against the pulley. That way i’d have an idea about pressing it back together and applying appropriate force on the seal, taking into account any changes from machining/lapping? I’ll put a descent photo up of the spring side of the seal.
The cast seat has holes in it and these align with holes in the pump body. Look to be vent/drain. Any water that creeps past the seal gets drained off looks to be the idea. The pump body/cast-seat was fairly clogged up.
i wonder how a zerk-fitting and pack it with grease would perform?As mentioned before, no need to grind those rivets off. Just press the shaft straight out in a one’r. A bit of heat on the pulley would likely make things easier. It was on a big press, didn’t notice the gauge before it started to move. Few tonnes maybe?
I don’t know where this lot will go, whether it simply be an exercise to satisfy curiosity or see what is possible and end up an actual modified/recon pump. It’s got to start with a suitable alternative seal, as the rest is straight forward really.
some photos of the disassembled pump.
Probably won’t do anything with it anytime soon.
When back at home, i’ll look into a compatible seal and what is required to install.
more out of interest than necessity.order of parts on the shaft.
mechanical seal graphite-face & cast seat-face.
cast-seat rear-face & small bearing
rear-face of pulley
front-face of puller, ground rivets, no need to have done so.
pump body
yes, I will experiment with a carpet ‘insert’.
I think optimally, the whole carpet section wants replacing. Then punch out accurately-placed holes. Even over those front screws and then use some form of plastic cap/plug to finish it. That way, those bars could be removed, slid out without having to pull-up glued carpet. Or simply not glue the carpet down? Strategic velcro strips?
Regarding that foot-pad. My carpet has a ribbed rubber pad stitched in. Coverdales, based on their website image appear to do the same? So it’s far from the look of an oem installation.
It looks like the sort of matting you get for workbenches; anti-static, electricl isolation etc. That sort of thing? A quick google throws up various options.
On another note, any ideas what this section of carpet might be for?
It came with my set, but I can’t figure out what it might be for?
It looks to form an oblong boxy type thing.
Your carpets look factastic. How did you repair the plastic foot-pad. Previous photos show it somewhat broken up? I believe at 6’4″ you too are beyond the comfortable/practical range of the front seats?
Here’s what I got now.
It’s still tempory, i need a seat in to turn the car around to then work on the NS sill area.
Below is what I’m proposing to implement.Relocation-rails remounted, inset into the sound-proofing, they now sit pretty much flush.
They utilise M7 countersunk screws to bolt flush.
The front bolts are temp normal hex-heads, as i failed to order enough. Brainfart.
Carpet with slots punched for the mounting bars to exit at rear.
Also seat-base mounting holes punched for front bolts. They can be seen just behind the seam between carpet & hardura. Original hacked holes remain.
I don’t consider additional strain, if any on the seat-base fixings. Those 8mm bars are giving as much support as the floor. Possibly more? The fronts of the bars aren’t stressed and cannot attempt to ‘lift’ because of the rear mount. The only place of concern was the section of bar overhanging. That is quite small and would take a lot of force to bend, a lot. Factor in the actual seat base bolted to it. Adding even more support with the angle-section steel-sides and the little gussettes by the fixing holes.
Seat base extends a little beyond the rear mounting bolt before it kicks-up a little. The bars support the base all the way. Nothing is extended, applying more leverage. Simply mounted in a different place.
With the seat mounted and in the furthest back position. You can see that the forward mounting holes are quite visible and need to be addressed. Either covered up appropriately or a complete new carpet correctly, neatly punched. The seta back-back is now kinda inline with the b-post.
Granted, not often needed to lift the lid, but when you do; sender, fuel-connections, whatever. It could prove frustrating? I’ll experiment with those ears, It’s in my nature to always think about access, future maintenance etc. Hence the potential overthinking about the ears.
I’ll have to try, but I suspect you have to fit the lid from a fairly vertical position to insert the roll-hinge and fold it down to secure? So I’m htinking the tank and all that really wants to be in before the carpet assembly starts?
My oblong front panel carpet is also overly long. I fitted it square at that edge to save on bulk in that area during trials. But your point about it wrapping around onto the sill, like mine can, will solve the gap issue. I can trim back the foam underlay on the inner-sill, so the carpet won’t cause an offset for what it’s worth.
My issues with the seat-frame fixing holes are more about professional quality of work. But, my particular case is somewhat complex. I am tall, a smidge over 2m and not as slim as i used to be. I find the seat position too far forward when furthest back. I have devised some mountings made out of flat bar to allow the seat frame to be mounted further back, ~100/125mm.
above is during a trial fitting on top of the carpet. But mounted like this, the front sections are visible when seat is right back. I considered making/printing some plastic covers to hide the front sections.
But i’m now thinking to fit them ‘under’ the carpet. Cutting out the underlayers where they sit will bring them level with underlay and provide a somewhat firmer mounting, not being bolted through layers of crushed carpet & foam etc.
I would need to make exit holes in the hardura for the bar coming out the rear & punch new holes for the frame, but that will leave the forward original hole exposed. Hence the thoughts of making a new section. Either that or attempt to cover/fill the existing hole. Maybe a plastic disc/plug of sorts might not look so bad and even allow access to the mounting-screw without removing the carpet? The rear hole will be covered by the seat-frame. Might be onto something there?
Possibly oem made the centre carpet glued on top because of the bulk. I think if you wanted a fairly flat seam, you’d have to stich it flat and even hammer it too flatten it more? I know you won’t really see it, but it’s there.
Yes, the bulkhead carpet stiched inside out is proper isn’t it. Coverdal look to do it the same as oem, as with other sections too. Stiching like this also ‘bows’ out the top opening nicely. Instead of being somewhat flat like mine? I guess soemhting in there will shape it out anyway.
I know the carpets will look great when finally fitted with a complete interior. Specific flaws detracted by the overall look of inside and mostly not even seen. You can somewhat over-focus looking specifically, in deatil at a particular point. Anyway, don’t worry Coverdale did not make the carpet. Brian Cates did ~17 years.
A quick google now responds with good, OK & don’t use. Mostly from many years ago. No idea if he is still trading? My experience is ‘OK’. Overall is good, but finishing is poor I.M.O.
I will play with tank-lid & the centre-carpet, my extension-runners and think about options. I’m liking my sudden idea about plug/discs to cover holes. Will simplify work alot.
