[Peter Bremner]

Hello, mine is a Facet posi-flow. The one I bought has a check valve. No resistance one way, no flow at all the other way. Plastic body that doesn’t need to be mounted on rubber bobbins.
I wanted to fill the carb before starting so wiring to the starter solenoid was no good.
I made the loom for the Safari. The wire goes from the switch (ignition controlled), through the left A pillar (with all the other wires to the rear), along the outer sill with the hydraulic pipes, then into the cabin with the wire to the fuel sender. Then out through the right sill and along to the pump.
As long as the pump is level with the fuel tank, anywhere will do. The pumps can lift about 12 inches. Mine is quite near the front. I fitted the obligatory Facet filter before the pump. Also a larger fuel filter. I won’t need one in the engine bay now.

The sill on a DS is a rectangular box structure, sometimes called a longeron. The sill is about 7 inches deep and 2 and a half inches wide. The part you can when you open the door is the door closing plate. Not structural but covers up the pipe work and wiring.
Nothing goes along inside the box structure, wirjng and pipework are all bolted to outside and covered up with the closing plate.

Peter

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, I had mine blasted, epoxy primer then brush painted top coat. To top it off, stone chip schutz in a fetching shade of grey.

The panel that needed the most work was the left rear corner for the pipework protection. It was full of holes. I covered one side in masking tape and spread Araldite all over the other side. One set, I repeated on the other side. Epoxy primer then top coat.

[Peter Bremner]

I’ve fitted a Facet cube in the sill. I intend using it to prime the carb. The mechanical pump will remain. I placed the switch in the steering binnacle of the 3 dial dash (where the rheostat used to be).
I made a plate with two bolts to mount the pump. The plate was then stuck to the sill (not the door closing plate) with Sikaflex, held in place with tape until it set.
If you are worried about crushing the nylon tube when you clamp on some rubber pipe, you can buy brass inserts to protect the pipe, like this. This is not a recommendation, just an example.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131267006418

My Dsuper5 already had 123 fitted when I bought it. I’ve bought 123 for my Safari but not started the engine yet.

Where are you located? I took my DSuper5 to a rolling road to optimise the ignition timing and carb settings. I used Peter Baldwin’s rollers in Cambridgeshire. Is there a rolling road near you?

[Peter Bremner]

I didn’t have any trouble replacing the bearing either time. I used the nail trick both times.

I took the bearing to a bearing shop in Grays, Essex, they matched it up OK.

https://george6415.wixsite.com/jmbelts

I used a large socket and a vice to push in the new bearing.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, yes there is a circlip on the input shaft. On one box I couldn’t pull the shaft out, on another it fell out.
The release bearing carrier is like a stick in a bucket, the clutch fork wobbles about as well. Don’t worry about it. Make sure you change the bearing. I removed mine by welding a nail across the bearing and then used a drift on the nail.

Harry Martens may be able to identify your gearbox

HOME – EN

Have a seat and a stiff drink before asking the price of an overhaul. Harry does a 5 speed BVH conversion as well….

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, the engine and gearbox are now one. It took two goes. The first time I had to use bolts to pull them together, but then I couldn’t operate the clutch, even with a five foot pole on the fork.
I pulled them apart again. Nothing obviously wrong. The second time I took much more care getting the engine and box level. They slid together far more easily. I can operate the clutch with a foot long adjustable wrench on the clutch arm. Much better.
The WOSP starter motor is also on. Very dinky, doesn’t need heat shields and pulls much less power than the original. I’ve still used very heavy cable and have fitted a relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid. The relay takes the strain off the very expensive ignition switch.
WOSP alternator next, 95 amp (I think) and internally regulated.
I have yet to paint the polka dots on the engine block, just trying to find the correct AC colour…

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, don’t worry about it. If you fit the larger wheel trims you can’t see any of the wheel anyway. I did mine in RAL 7044 (I had to choose something and the powder coater had some in stock).

I originally cleaned up a wheel, took it into B&Q (been and queued), had them scan it and made some paint to match. It looked OK until I drove it a week later. The paint in the grooves hadn’t dried. It created a lovely starburst of paint all over the tyres.
Hence blasting and powder coating.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, I’m going down the cheapskate route. Pyrolytic cleaning of the panels (burning off in an oven, not the one in the kitchen). Repair any damage myself.
Then back for hot zinc spray to door bottoms, seams and insides.
Epoxy primer, filler, more epoxy to seal then cellulose top coat.
Cellulose is very forgiving for amateurs like me. No need for air fed mask. Put on plenty then polish to a shine.
I’m not hoping for a concourse finish, I just want to stop it going rusty.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, the elephant’s ears: look inside the rear wings to the rear. You are looking at the ears.
Try Jamie at DSWorkshop, around the M25 to Potters Bar. He will give an honest appraisal and may have a tame paintshop in mind.

I would be very tempted to have a detailing firm give it the once over with their clay bars and T-Cut etc. Spend the money on petrol instead.

Just drive it.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, if I can be bothered I use a Disklok on the steering wheel. Otherwise nothing.
I have toyed with a solenoid operated fuel tap and hiding the switch where the dashboard rheostat sits (3 dial dash).
On a 3 dial dash with foot operated parking brake, there is a little button you can flick across to stop the brake being released.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, before you spend money on it, are the underpinnings any good?
Floor, sills, elephant’s ears sound? Boot OK? Door bottoms? Any filler? Why has the paint cracked?
Otherwise you may be polishing a t*rd.
That is when costs will run away from you.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, if the mounting’s threads are knackered another option would be to drill them out completely so there is none of the captive nut remaining. A ‘top hat’ bush with the correct thread can then be welded in place with easy access.

Average height for both French and UK males is 5 foot 9 inches. South Africa is 5 foot 6 inches. If both Adie Pease and Jamie can get comfortable, I would leave the seat alone.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, I would try this firm for advice. They make seat belts and are familiar with the DS (Jamie uses them).

https://www.quickfitsbs.com/

From their gallery

https://www.quickfitsbs.com/gallery_citroen.php

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, on my 1974 DSuper5 and my 1972 Safari there are two seat belt mounting points. One on the top of the sill by the B post and one on the side of the sill by the B post.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, today I was on my back using a schutz gun to apply Dinitrol 447 stonechip. I used four litres so it must be on thick enough, even allowing for covering my forearms, T shirt and jeans with the stuff.
I’ll let that set for a couple of days then it will get a light covering of Bilt Hamber. I’m putting that on, diluted with white spirit, using a small spray gun.
I’ve already done inside the sills.
Hopefully I can then fit the louvred panel, lower the car down a bit on the axle stands and then fit the engine and gearbox.

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