Peter Bremner

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  • in reply to: Manual to bvh #12750

    Imgbb is messing around and I can’t find how to delete posts.
    Last try.

    in reply to: Manual to bvh #12749

    Imgbb are messing about.

    in reply to: Manual to bvh #12748

    in reply to: Manual to bvh #12747

    If you want the starter motor to be ignition switch controlled, then delete the wire from terminal 85. Instead take a wire from pin 2 of the ignition switch to 85.
    That way, the starter motor can only operate if the ignition is switched on.

    in reply to: Manual to bvh #12746

    If you haven’t got a Daisy wheel on the positive battery post, this is how I would do it.

    I use a 70amp relay because terminals 30 and 87 are larger and can accommodate larger wire. It is overkill.
    Using a relay reduces the amount of current going through the piddly switch on the gear lever. It stops the contacts burning out.

    I crimp and solder the connections using leaded solder. Never had a problem in 40 years.

    in reply to: Manual to bvh #12743

    I know mine are BVM. I fit a 40amp
    relay between the starter switch and the solenoid on the starter.
    If you have 8 wires, disregard pins 7 and 8.

    On the 40amp relay, battery goes to 30, 87 goes to starter solenoid.

    Assuming the microswitch on the gear wand earths to complete the circuit, 85 can also come from the battery, 86 goes to microswitch. When the wand is moved to start, it earths 86 which then closes the relay and the solenoid gets power.

    The new ignition switches are carp, avoid.

    in reply to: Ds pallas 1972 Comfort ride spheres #12730

    Der Franzose shows all the types of spheres and pressures, in bars. 1 bar = 15lbs.

    in reply to: Ds pallas 1972 Comfort ride spheres #12711

    I drive mine like I stole it. You’ll find me in lane 3.

    in reply to: Ds pallas 1972 Comfort ride spheres #12704

    Don’t over think it.
    Unless you do a double blind test with the same car over the same route, you won’t know.
    Are your front and rear arms in perfect condition?
    Tyres and tyre pressures?
    If you want to stop the rolling, you could fit the Xantia Activa set up with an extra three (or four?) spheres.

    in reply to: Ds pallas 1972 Comfort ride spheres #12694

    I certainly wouldn’t pass the ‘Princess and the pea’ test.
    I changed mine for comfort spheres, I didn’t notice any difference at all.

    in reply to: external wind deflector #12297

    I used an MGB internal deflector. I too tried duct tape on the closed roof, made no difference.
    There is so much wind noise from the windscreen, doors and even door mirrors.
    I fitted the small size door mirrors, that cut down the noise quite a bit.
    Making sure the door glass is properly positioned helps.
    I packed out the door frame rubber with sponge rubber cord to ensure a better seal.
    I made sure the front wing rear edge was level or slightly proud of the front door and that the front door rear edge was level or slightly proud of the rear door.
    I’ve toyed with the idea of a flush mounted, bonded front screen. It would be possible if the screen rubber was fitted all round the screen but I can’t think of an elegant solution at the bulkhead.

    It is just a noisy car.

    in reply to: Piston & Liner Replacement Shortcut ? #12244

    Engine and gearbox out as one lump.
    Straightforward, just long winded.
    The metal loop on the water pump is perfectly placed to lift at the correct angle.
    I had to use a lump of oak and a BFH to remove the liners.

    Then the fun starts.
    Timing chain and tensioner.
    Cam polished.
    Tappets refaced.
    New starter motor (Wosp).
    New handbrake pads.
    Engine bay will look crabby, plenty of Jizer etc.
    New engine and gearbox mounting rubbers.
    Change the oil pressure switch to a 20psi modern type.
    Change gearbox oil.
    Change exhaust manifold studs to M8 whilst giving the head a light skim.
    Check all three parts of clutch.

    It’s a simple engine. Nothing too tricky. Pay attention to fitting dizzy drive. It can’t be changed once box and block are back together.

    in reply to: Loom wire gauges #12241

    Hello, I used thin wall, single core cable, thickness determined by load.
    I used British Standard wiring colours. Much easier to fault find as you can easily see what the wire connects to and from.

    If you don’t want a multi-connector at the top of the wing, there are numbers which clip on the cable available to help identification.

    If you really want to push the boat out, Brother labelling machine plus heat shrink tubing.

    The Japanese crimp on terminals are quite a good fit in the Citroen connectors.

    Use non sticky loom tape. Wrap with some tension (tape, not you) and it will grip to itself. I put a blob of superglue at the end to stop it unravelling.

    Thinwall Single Core Cable

    Japanese Terminals

    https://www.autosparks.co.uk/media/AutosparksBSCC.pdf

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/298189292595

    None of the above are recommendations, just examples of what is available.

    in reply to: Exhaust dumping excessive water #12220

    One gallon of petrol produces one and a half gallons of water.
    Not a lot of people know that.

    in reply to: Exhaust dumping excessive water #12218

    Condensation.
    Both of mine do it.
    This is why mild steel exhausts rot out.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 754 total)