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Hello, DSuper5, 1974. Mine has Federal Supersteel 185/80 all round.
They are black, round and keep the rims off the floor.
I drive my DS like I stole it, no cornering or braking problems.
https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1831174980.htm/
Just use Google translate unless you are fluent
Hello, is your one kaput or missing? Adie Pease does exchange rebuilt carbs
but be sitting down when you look.
They often come up on Leboncoin, with usual caveats (won’t answer, won’t send to UK, won’t take PayPal) but I managed to get one from France. Plus, it may be worn out, they always say ‘bon etat’.
Hello, it depends on how much you want to spend.
Standard answer would be a 123 distributor.Hello, have you checked the clutch cable isn’t rubbing against the steering column?
Hello, use a different paint shop, one that is familiar with GRP cars.
In the worst case, the roof may need rubbing down, any cracked areas ground and glass fibre tissue applied. Possibly even the whole roof. Then de-nibbed, spray filler (NOT high build primer) then primer then top coats. If the paint shop suggests opening up any cracks and filling with body filler, walk away. If they talk of ‘re-gelling’ it, walk away, because there is no such thing.
On a metal panel, any solvents in the paint hit the metal and stop. On glass fibre, the solvents can keep going. This causes any repairs to sink and show up a few weeks or months later.
It takes several weeks to spray a GRP panel properly, time must be allowed for each process to settle.
Use a paint shop that specialises in TVR, Lotus, Marcos or Ginetta etc. or even a boat yard.
Vinyl roofs are a bit passe, and you are totally reliant on the glue they use. If the edges lift, then what? A blob of Evo-Stik won’t do it.
Find a new paint shop
Peter
I always carry a few tools, plugs, fuses, bulbs and fan belts (matched). Of the kinkier stuff, I always carry a clutch cable, the low pressure return pipe from the regulator (mine split, dumped all the LHM in about a minute, only failure I’ve had so far), the tool to open the bonnet if the cable snaps and a couple of the bent pieces of rod that hold the bonnet fully open. Plans and dimensions for the last two are in the manual
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tv0b25gpmd5ux8e/AADNG48fI6suHLLEU71KDKRha/814-manual?dl=0&subfolder_nav_tracking=1On the motorway, watch out for silly buggers who pull alongside or just behind taking photos.
Have fun
So, do you like it? Is it going well? I hope your not shy!
Hello, if you don’t mind a lot of mess, take out the plugs and take out the T piece, leaving the block bare. With a lot of kitchen roll handy, blip the starter. oil should pour out.
Less messy, have you a compressor or foot pump or bicycle pump?
With the switch on the bench. Rig up a wire from the battery to the switch body (just wrap it around the threaded part). A wire from the terminal to a 12 v light bulb, another wire from the other terminal of the light bulb back to the battery. Blow air into the little hole, making as tight a seal as possible. The oil switch operates at about 3 psi. The lamp should be lit, once you put a little air pressure into the switch, the bulb should extinguish. If it doesn’t the switch is kaput.I expect with a piece of pipe that would fit over the threads, a decent pair of lungs will turn the light off.Hello, all my seized bolts snapped when I tried to undo them. I managed to get them out on the bench by drilling a hole in a piece of thick steel, placing it over the projecting stud and the welding the stud to the steel. The heat of the welding plus the leverage got them out. Otherwise I would take the manifolds to a machine shop. I did that as well, I had the 7mm studs replaced with 8mm.
My starter motor had a steel strap as well as the mounting bolts at the ‘bell housing’. It was nigh on impossible to get to the strap bolts, so the manifolds came off.
If you replace the starter with a geared one from Darrin, you can remove and fit without removing the manifolds. If you fit a new one, change the lead from the battery as well. Although the new starters have less current draw, the Citroen one is particularly puny. I’d also replace the lead to the solenoid while you are at it.
I used a ready made starter lead from Vehicle Wiring Products, the longest one fits OK, assuming your battery is one left. I threaded the cables through some heat resistant sleeving, also from VWP.Hello, one of the main aggravations is getting the engine up high enough to allow the central bolt to come away. I would be inclined to remove the two vertical mounting bolts and then remove the cast mounting from the engine block, 3 bolts. All this with the engine supported/raised on a block of wood and jack under the sump.
You can then remove the mountings on the bench and fit new rubbers. Assemble the mounting onto the casting. Put the locking nut back on the same position, about 3mm of thread poking out the top. And do it up tight. (I had to put plenty of Loctite on the height adjuster nut, it kept unscrewing itself, lowering the engine.) You can then offer the mounting up to the car, drop the vertical bolts into place, then jiggle it all about as you bolt it to the block.
Last time I did mine, I was leaning right over the wing when I stood on the lead lamp cable and I face planted the engine. I use cordless now.
With regard to gaining access, I just remove anything in the way (except the exhaust!). If your car has them, removing the counterweights on the bulkhead sides is a good idea. Lord knows what they do.
Have you plenty of socket extensions, wobble bars etc.?
Expect bruised knuckles, a lot of swearing and huffing and puffing.
Attempting anything on the exhaust manifold is courting disaster. Seized studs, then seized manifold nuts. By then the starter may as well come out and five years later it is concourse.
Have fun
Here is a handle, also from Netherlands
Here you are, cheap as chips, takes PayPal and posts to UK
https://www.ebay.nl/itm/Citroen-DS-krik/283815775696?hash=item4214bd0dd0:g:LecAAOSwu7Fc0dYP
Dirk Sassen has the three parts, a bit pricey
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