[Peter Bremner]

Hello, no need for a lift. Ask Darrin at Citroen Classics how he does them. He doesn’t have a lift.
Splitting the old mounts only needs a drill to drill out the spot welds. Or even a chisel and a BFH to split them and knock them back into shape. Glue the base to the new bottom mount.
It is a PITA job but not technically demanding.

[Peter Bremner]

When I’ve set the mounts, I just left a couple of threads showing above the nut. I also used a fair bit of thread lock because in the past the lock nut has come undone.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, they can be a bit of a bugger. The damping weights may need to be removed from the sides to get access. It can be done by jacking up the engine, again to gain access. Some have removed the mounts from the block as well.
It’s a fiddly, stream of swearing type job.
Are the old ones kaput?
Mine had a habit of the lower nut winding itself down giving the impression of knackered mounts. Winding the nut back up with a liberal dose of threadlock sorted that problem.
If you rebuild the old ones, there is no need to faff about spot welding or riveting the two halves together, just use glue on the bottom of the rubber. Once in place they can’t come apart.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, try Jamie at DS Workshop or Darrin at Citroen Classics.
Neither actively sell cars but they may know of one about to be sold and put you in touch with the owner.

[Peter Bremner]

A quick and dirty trick with the carb inlet is to wire the Jubilee clip to the boss on the carb.
It may still loosen but it won’t come out.

I use E5.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, when I refurbished my DSuper5, I drained the tank, then added two gallons of petrol. I then fiddled with fuel gauge needle (bent is the word) so that it showed empty. I rarely let it get that low, but at least I have a reserve.

When I had my Safari tank refurbished, it became a giant sieve, destined for the skip.
In retrospect, I should have had an aluminium tank made. The cost wouldn’t have been much more. A decent swirl pot and baffles could have been added.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, yes, you could have pump running all the time.
I’ve only fitted the electric pump to save the battery and starter motor. I don’t like cranking it over for ages just to fill the carb with petrol.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, being a prophet of doom, what happens in a crash if the engine stalls? Inertia switch?

[Peter Bremner]

You’re right. It faces Quai de Javel..

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, the Posi-flow version is the one to get. The cube type need rubber bobbin mounts, the Posi-flow doesn’t.
Did you wash the air filter in petrol? Or run it without one to cross that off the list?

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, more parts bolted on, gradually getting there.
I may modify the exhaust support bracket, or make a new one. The original arrangement doesn’t clamp the flexible onto the downpipe as firmly as I would like. I end up fitting a U bolt and saddle type exhaust clamp anyway.
I’ll make a bracket that still bolts to the block at the sump, but which uses a U bolt and saddle type clamp at the flexible to downpipe join.
Moving away from tradition, I shall use a M12 x 1.25 Nyloc nut on the hydraulic pump pulley. I expect the fancy locking washer is a hangover from the 1930s. It has a Woodruff key, a Nyloc should be enough.
The alternator is on, it is 70 amp.

It is surprising just how long all this malarkey takes.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, I tried one of those non return valves, complete carp.
You will need to buy some 8mm ID fuel hose. I found the nylon was 8mm OD. The tails are 8mm od. You need J30 R9 hose. I’d still use the brass inserts. And use fuel hose clips, too small for Jubilee clips I have found.

Before all that malarkey, have you pulled the fuel pipe off the carb, then with the coil disconnected and a fire extinguisher to hand (not in its bracket in the kitchen), spun the engine over. Do you get plenty of glugs of fuel? If you do, I’d leave well alone.

Is the tit in the centre of the dizzy cap free to move and sticking out?
Do the plugs have the insulator tubes over the ‘pencils’?
Have you run the engine at night then lifted the bonnet to see if there is any arcing from the HT leads?

Fun, fun, fun

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, all the above, plus have you cleaned the air filter?
I replaced the mesh filter with a modern filter, CA 5279. But for the time being, only change one thing at a time.

Are both butterflies fully opening when the pedal is floored?

Did you buy a genuine Facet Posi-flow (about £60) or a knock-off?

The ‘rebuild’ kit for the Weber is very disappointing. Two gaskets for the spacer, a gasket for the lid and the needle valve and seat. And two little rubber rings to stop the linkage buzzing.
Dead easy to take out all the jets and emulsion tubes. Float level is by bending the tabs, usual stuff.

Have you set the valve clearances? Do it cold. Unless you are very quick and experienced, checking hot is difficult.
The rule of 9 doesn’t apply when doing the tappets.

It is all part of the fun!

[Peter Bremner]

Another thing to check is the fuel inlet union on the carb. They are only a press fit. They can and do fall out, spraying petrol everywhere.
There is a kit to fit a screw-in union. I can’t remember the details. No doubt Paul can.

There are a few rolling roads in Hampshire. Just make sure they are old school and know about carbs, points and distributors. Most yoof have never seen a carb, let alone a dizzy. Kids these days!

[Peter Bremner]

Here is my fuel filter and Facet pump in situ

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