[Peter Bremner]

I have a brace. DSuper5, from Olivier. I have rebuilt the engine etc.
The other is a Safari, was an ambulance but now a Safari.
One thing to bare in mind is the space needed. A lot. A car at molecular level takes up three times the space of a complete car.
I bought mine 10 years ago. Did nothing for 18 months and then a year off when I was ill. Otherwise a few hours a day, every day.

Bodywork is the most tedious, long winded, pain in the backside.
Can you spray a car? If you can’t, sit down before you get the quote.

I would buy the best DSuper5 you can find.
Carb, manual 5 speed, left hand drive (the way God made them). Fairly easy to work on, for a DS.
Then drive it. No need to mollycoddle it.

[Peter Bremner]

I asked Jamie. No need to remove the engine. Maybe give him a call. After 11am is best.

You may need a four year old child with a vice like grip….

[Peter Bremner]

Paul will be along with the link to Tony Jackson’s works.

[Peter Bremner]

Imgbb is messing around and I can’t find how to delete posts.
Last try.

[Peter Bremner]

Imgbb are messing about.

[Peter Bremner]

[Peter Bremner]

If you want the starter motor to be ignition switch controlled, then delete the wire from terminal 85. Instead take a wire from pin 2 of the ignition switch to 85.
That way, the starter motor can only operate if the ignition is switched on.

[Peter Bremner]

If you haven’t got a Daisy wheel on the positive battery post, this is how I would do it.

I use a 70amp relay because terminals 30 and 87 are larger and can accommodate larger wire. It is overkill.
Using a relay reduces the amount of current going through the piddly switch on the gear lever. It stops the contacts burning out.

I crimp and solder the connections using leaded solder. Never had a problem in 40 years.

[Peter Bremner]

I know mine are BVM. I fit a 40amp
relay between the starter switch and the solenoid on the starter.
If you have 8 wires, disregard pins 7 and 8.

On the 40amp relay, battery goes to 30, 87 goes to starter solenoid.

Assuming the microswitch on the gear wand earths to complete the circuit, 85 can also come from the battery, 86 goes to microswitch. When the wand is moved to start, it earths 86 which then closes the relay and the solenoid gets power.

The new ignition switches are carp, avoid.

[Peter Bremner]

Der Franzose shows all the types of spheres and pressures, in bars. 1 bar = 15lbs.

[Peter Bremner]

I drive mine like I stole it. You’ll find me in lane 3.

[Peter Bremner]

Don’t over think it.
Unless you do a double blind test with the same car over the same route, you won’t know.
Are your front and rear arms in perfect condition?
Tyres and tyre pressures?
If you want to stop the rolling, you could fit the Xantia Activa set up with an extra three (or four?) spheres.

[Peter Bremner]

I certainly wouldn’t pass the ‘Princess and the pea’ test.
I changed mine for comfort spheres, I didn’t notice any difference at all.

[Peter Bremner]

I used an MGB internal deflector. I too tried duct tape on the closed roof, made no difference.
There is so much wind noise from the windscreen, doors and even door mirrors.
I fitted the small size door mirrors, that cut down the noise quite a bit.
Making sure the door glass is properly positioned helps.
I packed out the door frame rubber with sponge rubber cord to ensure a better seal.
I made sure the front wing rear edge was level or slightly proud of the front door and that the front door rear edge was level or slightly proud of the rear door.
I’ve toyed with the idea of a flush mounted, bonded front screen. It would be possible if the screen rubber was fitted all round the screen but I can’t think of an elegant solution at the bulkhead.

It is just a noisy car.

[Peter Bremner]

Engine and gearbox out as one lump.
Straightforward, just long winded.
The metal loop on the water pump is perfectly placed to lift at the correct angle.
I had to use a lump of oak and a BFH to remove the liners.

Then the fun starts.
Timing chain and tensioner.
Cam polished.
Tappets refaced.
New starter motor (Wosp).
New handbrake pads.
Engine bay will look crabby, plenty of Jizer etc.
New engine and gearbox mounting rubbers.
Change the oil pressure switch to a 20psi modern type.
Change gearbox oil.
Change exhaust manifold studs to M8 whilst giving the head a light skim.
Check all three parts of clutch.

It’s a simple engine. Nothing too tricky. Pay attention to fitting dizzy drive. It can’t be changed once box and block are back together.

[Author]

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