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Regarding the bolt on part that hooks the bonnet. How about bolting it on as is then using a crescent wrench to bend and twist it to the correct position?
I’m good at brute and ignorance.A DS is a baptism of fire!
I broke myself in gently with a Triumph Bonneville, then the mechanics of a Frogeye Sprite, then a Marcos Coupé.
My first full on restoration was the four seater Marcos Mantis. A hateful car that would break down in the garage. I sold that to Jem Marsh (Mar of Marcos). They crashed it into a wall because the clutch had rusted together.
The biggest mistake I made was starting off with half inch drive sockets. Now I use 1/4″ almost exclusively.On the first two doors I repaired, they needed at least 6mm of filler at the join to restore the contour. The third door will need about 3mm of filler.
My overall attitude has also changed due the conflict of ambition over ability.
The thrust of my restoration is now for good mechanics and a non rusting body.
The Safari will fall into the category of good for an amateur, poor for a professional restoration.
After seven motorbike and eight car restorations I’ve almost had enough. The next restoration will be my 1940s milling machine.Two doors too late I’ve realised the outer skin repair panels are folded too much at the swage line.
I had tacked the third skin on when I saw the problem. I cut off the tacks. With the skin on the bench, and the folded ends straightened, I squashed the panel flat with my hands.
It didn’t go completely flat, there was still quite a swage line. When slid back into place, there was no longer a dip at the join.
With a plug weld every inch, it is definitely on.Next was removing the multiple dents. You really have to thump the skin to push out the dents. Tippy tapping just does not work.
The dents are now down to small bumps and hollows. More crash, bang, wallop tomorrow. Then the DA with 80 grit and epoxy primer.
And filler.About 40 years ago I bought a pack of 1 metre long silicon bronze brazing wires for £25. I have hardly used any, except as a “fish” to pull wires through pipes etc. I recently discovered they are worth a fortune!
Now I just use general purpose fluxed brazing rods 3.2mm. I still use extra flux, SIF bronze. If you can get it, you can use borax.
I do have oxy-acetylene. The general purpose rods can be used with MAPP gas, but blowlamps tend to heat up large areas.
MIG was certainly around but the bean counters most likely vetoed the cost of grinding down welds. Brazing does leave a good flat finish with no extra cost. Unless I’m brazing with SIF Bronze wires, very lumpy.
Slippers and nuts (your latest band?).
I was mindful that yours is painted, hence re-drilling the hole nearer to the correct hole.
It would only need the removable part to be repainted.My idea, for what it’s worth.
Weld up the hole in the removable piece of metal.
Drill new hole a bit closer to the correct one.
Bolt it on.
Drill through new hole into fixed part.
Dismantle.
Drill correct size hole for m5 rivnut.If a piece of copper bar is clamped on the visible side, when the hole is welded up, it will be flat on the visible side. It will only need a tickle with the grinder to clean up the underside. And maybe a smear of filler on the visible side.
The joys of repro parts.
How about a rivnut?
How did you resolve the problem?
Are you intending to refresh the wheels or a full restoration?
I had mine blasted, hot zinc sprayed and then powder coated in RAL 7044.
If a refresh, many automotive paint suppliers can make an aerosol of 7044.
One way to mask the tyre is to use playing cards. Poke the cards between the tyre and rim, overlapping the cards.I don’t think I’d live long enough to restore that one.
From Citroen Classics, they use and recommend RAL 7044.
All a bit academic if you have full size wheel trims as only about 10mm is visible.
Don’t do what I did. I took the wheel into Been and Queued, had paint made. They looked ok until I drove the car. Each wheel had a starburst of paint across the tyre.Why do they bother making repair panels that almost, but not quite, fit?
It took three sessions to fit the inner door skin, or about 7 hours.
I used a large copper bar behind the welds to try to stop distortion.
On the left front door I had to use the corner repair sections. They definitely don’t fit without a fair bit of hammer work.
Both corners are on.
Before the skin goes on, I’ll clean and epoxy prime the insides of the door. The inner skin will get a couple of coats where the stainless steel rubber mounting strip is riveted on.
Before the skin edge is folded over, I give the edges a coat of epoxy and fold whilst wet.
I hope this will seal the edge and add rigidity.
By the time I’ve done the fourth door, I will be quite proficient and hope to never do another one.The left front door had various creases and dents. I used the spot welded dent pulling tabs, except I don’t have the proper spot welder.
Using the MIG was ugly but effective. I used a slide hammer to pulled on the tabs. You have to give them quite a hefty thump. Tickling them is pointless.
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