[Peter Bremner]

I used an MGB internal deflector. I too tried duct tape on the closed roof, made no difference.
There is so much wind noise from the windscreen, doors and even door mirrors.
I fitted the small size door mirrors, that cut down the noise quite a bit.
Making sure the door glass is properly positioned helps.
I packed out the door frame rubber with sponge rubber cord to ensure a better seal.
I made sure the front wing rear edge was level or slightly proud of the front door and that the front door rear edge was level or slightly proud of the rear door.
I’ve toyed with the idea of a flush mounted, bonded front screen. It would be possible if the screen rubber was fitted all round the screen but I can’t think of an elegant solution at the bulkhead.

It is just a noisy car.

[Peter Bremner]

Engine and gearbox out as one lump.
Straightforward, just long winded.
The metal loop on the water pump is perfectly placed to lift at the correct angle.
I had to use a lump of oak and a BFH to remove the liners.

Then the fun starts.
Timing chain and tensioner.
Cam polished.
Tappets refaced.
New starter motor (Wosp).
New handbrake pads.
Engine bay will look crabby, plenty of Jizer etc.
New engine and gearbox mounting rubbers.
Change the oil pressure switch to a 20psi modern type.
Change gearbox oil.
Change exhaust manifold studs to M8 whilst giving the head a light skim.
Check all three parts of clutch.

It’s a simple engine. Nothing too tricky. Pay attention to fitting dizzy drive. It can’t be changed once box and block are back together.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, I used thin wall, single core cable, thickness determined by load.
I used British Standard wiring colours. Much easier to fault find as you can easily see what the wire connects to and from.

If you don’t want a multi-connector at the top of the wing, there are numbers which clip on the cable available to help identification.

If you really want to push the boat out, Brother labelling machine plus heat shrink tubing.

The Japanese crimp on terminals are quite a good fit in the Citroen connectors.

Use non sticky loom tape. Wrap with some tension (tape, not you) and it will grip to itself. I put a blob of superglue at the end to stop it unravelling.

Thinwall Single Core Cable

Japanese Terminals

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/media/AutosparksBSCC.pdf

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/298189292595

None of the above are recommendations, just examples of what is available.

[Peter Bremner]

One gallon of petrol produces one and a half gallons of water.
Not a lot of people know that.

[Peter Bremner]

Condensation.
Both of mine do it.
This is why mild steel exhausts rot out.

[Peter Bremner]

I just wrote a long reply, tried to post and the poxy forum said members only.
Logged back in, post gone.
Can’t be bothered…..

[Peter Bremner]

Filler is like HP and tomato sauce, the profit is what’s left on the plate.

Here’s my super duper sanding block:

[Peter Bremner]

Next thing to make will be a four feet long sanding block…

[Peter Bremner]

The front left hand door has proved to be a PITA. The dents and creases proved difficult to remove.
I managed to get a reasonable improvement but ultimately the Upol Fantastic filler had to make an appearance.
I used 80 grit on the DA sander on the bare metal, then epoxy primer, then 80 grit again followed by the filler.
The small plastic spreaders are OK for scooping it of the tin and mixing, but hopeless for large areas.
To apply it I used a length of old plastic curtain rail. I put the filler all along the bottom edge of the door. Holding the rail at each end I used it to spread the filler.
It looks a lot of filler, but there is about 400g in total. Most is about 1mm thick.
More DA action tomorrow.

[Peter Bremner]

Paul is your man for replacement doors.

I went down the repair section route for inside and outside skins.
The inner skins looked ok until the rubber strip at the bottom was removed. The metal channel had rusted away, taking the skin with it.
The outer skins were gnarly and rusty. The skin fold was very rusty.
The repair skins aren’t wonderful. The inner skin is OK. The outer skin hasn’t the correct curves.
Before removing the outer skin I scored a line 10 inches from the bottom. This allowed me to clamp the new skin in the correct position.
I used plug welds every inch to join them together.
Replacing the entire outer skin is a challenge.
I’m relying on filler to make good.
Once I’ve hung the doors and wings I can use filler to get it right (ish).

If my doors had been good but just dented, I’m sure I could have corrected the dents.
The problem is welds don’t respond to panel beating.
On the final door I will spend more time getting the profiles correct before welding.
And buy another big tub of filler!

[Peter Bremner]

A foregone conclusion, myself and panel beating don’t get on.
Hooray for filler! Lots of it.

[Peter Bremner]

Here are a few things I can recommend if revitalising your loom. All from Vehicle Wiring Products.

A much more elegant way to attach cables to the battery post.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-46-battery-fittings-isolators/c-91-clamps-clips/p-279-battery-stud-nut-clamp

A much better starter motor cable, the longest one will reach from a left side battery to the starter. Buy the thicker cable.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-48-cables/c-93-pre-made-battery-leads/p-579-battery-starter-cable

A 4, 6 or 8 way fuse box with blade fuses. Not original but blade fuses are reliable. You can get fuses that glow if blown.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-122-blade-fuse-holders/p-662-surface-mount-side-entry-blade-fuse-box

If you you have a daisy wheel solenoid on the battery, you could replace it with a 70 amp relay. The daisy wheel petals wear and burn.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-647-12v-70-amp-high-current-relay

I’m a sucker for fuses and relays!

Peter

[Peter Bremner]

Peter here again.
Have you an alternator with an external regulator in a box on the side of the battery or an internal regulator?

There is something about BVH and the ignition warning light if you opt for internal regulation.

Citroen did odd things with the wiring. The cable from the battery has two other wires spliced to it within the loom tape. Maybe they changed something and opted for three separate cables.

Paul will chime in soon with his experience. Paul also has a BVH. Mine are both BVM.

[Peter Bremner]

Calling Paul.
I’m sure Paul bought a new loom from the man who makes them.
The looms are a minefield with umpteen variations.
I make my own, not too difficult if you are methodical.
Do you mean a new ignition key or ignition switch? Three dial dash or earlier?

[Peter Bremner]

The last time I polished something on my bench grinder when I took off my goggles I looked like Stirling Moss after a race.

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