[Peter Bremner]

I’ll try not to. I did fill in the two holes left by the aftermarket bonnet handle.

Like this

[Peter Bremner]

Thanks for the offer. I’ve started so I’ll finish.
U-Pol Dolphin Glaze today as only very thin skims of filler needed. Dolphin Glaze is the bee’s knees. No pinholes and easy to sand.
A few more thin layers still to go on, then I can fit, ready to line up wings and doors etc.

[Peter Bremner]

Somewhere in the mix there are two types of 5 speed boxes.
One is close ratio, the other has a taller 5th gear as in the DSuper5.

I bought a 5 speed box from France via Leboncoin. Yes, it was the close ratio box.
I sent it Harry Maartens for a rebuild to DSuper5 spec.

[Peter Bremner]

Handy if you’re in France. I also carry ‘Je repair moi DS’, a less bulky version of the DS workshop manuals.
I didn’t need it when I had a puncture in Loire, just a new ‘chambre d’air’.

[Peter Bremner]

When I had a Marcos, the steering column went through the fan belt. The trick was to fit two. One on the pulleys, one tied up out of the way.
Maybe cable-tie a spare to the new one. Similar to a spare clutch cable in the non Pallas roof channel.

[Peter Bremner]

I have a brace. DSuper5, from Olivier. I have rebuilt the engine etc.
The other is a Safari, was an ambulance but now a Safari.
One thing to bare in mind is the space needed. A lot. A car at molecular level takes up three times the space of a complete car.
I bought mine 10 years ago. Did nothing for 18 months and then a year off when I was ill. Otherwise a few hours a day, every day.

Bodywork is the most tedious, long winded, pain in the backside.
Can you spray a car? If you can’t, sit down before you get the quote.

I would buy the best DSuper5 you can find.
Carb, manual 5 speed, left hand drive (the way God made them). Fairly easy to work on, for a DS.
Then drive it. No need to mollycoddle it.

[Peter Bremner]

I asked Jamie. No need to remove the engine. Maybe give him a call. After 11am is best.

You may need a four year old child with a vice like grip….

[Peter Bremner]

Paul will be along with the link to Tony Jackson’s works.

[Peter Bremner]

Imgbb is messing around and I can’t find how to delete posts.
Last try.

[Peter Bremner]

Imgbb are messing about.

[Peter Bremner]

[Peter Bremner]

If you want the starter motor to be ignition switch controlled, then delete the wire from terminal 85. Instead take a wire from pin 2 of the ignition switch to 85.
That way, the starter motor can only operate if the ignition is switched on.

[Peter Bremner]

If you haven’t got a Daisy wheel on the positive battery post, this is how I would do it.

I use a 70amp relay because terminals 30 and 87 are larger and can accommodate larger wire. It is overkill.
Using a relay reduces the amount of current going through the piddly switch on the gear lever. It stops the contacts burning out.

I crimp and solder the connections using leaded solder. Never had a problem in 40 years.

[Peter Bremner]

I know mine are BVM. I fit a 40amp
relay between the starter switch and the solenoid on the starter.
If you have 8 wires, disregard pins 7 and 8.

On the 40amp relay, battery goes to 30, 87 goes to starter solenoid.

Assuming the microswitch on the gear wand earths to complete the circuit, 85 can also come from the battery, 86 goes to microswitch. When the wand is moved to start, it earths 86 which then closes the relay and the solenoid gets power.

The new ignition switches are carp, avoid.

[Peter Bremner]

Der Franzose shows all the types of spheres and pressures, in bars. 1 bar = 15lbs.

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