[Peter Bremner]

The dipstick tube pushes into the block. It has a swaged ring which acts as a stop. The tube has a threaded collar with a hex which screws into the block and presses against the ring to hold the whole lot in.

The crank seal is in two parts, I think the upper part is in the bearing cap.

Unfortunately, your best bet is to pull the engine and gearbox out. Upgrade to 2175cc and a full rebuild. You can’t do much with the engine in situ.
The engine box combo balances perfectly from the lifting eye at the water pump.
No need to remove the bonnet, there is a hook which keeps it almost vertical, dimensions are in the manual.
You will need an engine hoist with a long reach.

All good fun..

[Peter Bremner]

My word, this is turning, or not, into a real pain.
Rack etc all OK. Turn the wheel sitting in the car and approaching full lock, in both directions, a terrible graunching sound, only in the car.
Three dial dash out, top of binnacle off, filings and carp by the steering lock collar. Collar removed, no difference. But the plate that holds the steering column bearing was loose. The nine ball bearings were also just lying there, I’ve never touched that part since I bought the car.
All apart, cleaned, new grease, reassembled.
It now seems OK.
What a palaver from one loose nut, two if you include me.

[Peter Bremner]

I can’t remember which, but one bolt is left hand thread. Guess how I found out.

The starter on my DSuper5 was a bugger to remove. Left hand drive. Not only did it have the usual three bolts at the flywheel end, it had two more bolts at the rear. Manifold off, with all the associated problems.
I did rebuild it. It is now sitting on a shelf. I fitted a Wosp starter instead. I even put a 40 amp relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.
(Have you seen the price of new ignition switches for three dial dash cars?)

[Peter Bremner]

To get the sump off, engine and gearbox have to come out.
This can often become a full rebuild. It has with me, twice.
While it’s out, change pistons and liners to 2175cc. Balance crank, flywheel and new clutch. New timing chain and tensioner. Check camshaft and tappets for wear. Change the m7 studs on the exhaust manifold to m8. New starter motor from Wosp. Overhaul carb. Check/replace parking brake pads.
And so on.
I used a tiny amount of goo on the sump and the end seals.

Or, leave it alone. They will do large distances even when officially knackered.

Regarding the BVH part, I know nothing. Both mine are DSuper5 spec, five speed manual.

Ready for the influx of tourists? When I was a kid, we’d holiday in Shanklin, going across to Ryde on the paddle steamer.

[Peter Bremner]

How about the offering from Der Franzose?

I’ve never seen one so am in the dark.

[Peter Bremner]

Unfortunately the saga was still not over. With the engine running,it was almost impossible to turn left, even with the wheels off the ground.
With suggestions from Paul I re-measured the steering arm to pinion pad again. I had messed up.
With the rack repositioned, normal service was resumed.

All this palaver caused by using the wrong pulley nut. A new Nyloc nut and Loctite should do the trick.

[Peter Bremner]

I think a bead or two of weld stops the chatter. The broken one had beads of weld, the rivets were tight, just not the nut holding it on.

I’m OK for pulleys thanks. Dead engines and gearboxes are a magnet for my shins.

[Peter Bremner]

That was not a job I wish to repeat too soon. 12 hours over four days.
I did take the opportunity to change the radiator fan switch to one which switches on at a higher temperature. I also added a drain tap to the aluminium radiator.

Once you’ve accepted what work has to be done to achieve the required outcome, you just have to get on with it. There was nothing tricky, just long winded.
I finished with one m9 nut extra because I found it stuck to the undertray. Plus a load of m4 and m5 nuts and washers. Only an optimist would drop one nut or washer and get one new one from the spares case. I always lose one, bring back five to replace it.

[Peter Bremner]

It may have been the loss of the spring washer I had used. These days spring washers are carp. Another factor may be the air-con compressor adding an extra jolt.
This time I’m going belt and braces, nyloc and threadlock.
The end of the camshaft was the same diameter along the threaded length. The nylon part definitely comes into play.

I shall put the dead pulley in the lathe and cut off the rivet heads to see how it comes apart.

[Peter Bremner]

[Peter Bremner]

The rack didn’t need to be removed, just completely undone, including the hydraulic connection.
Finally removed the pulley. The internal splines had disappeared. I used a whole spray can of brake cleaner to wash away all the pulley debris.
Before I installed the new pulley, I put two beads of weld on the front face and one bead of weld on the rear face. They should stop the rivets chattering, becoming loose and breaking.
You can see the welds I put on the old pulley.
Most of the gubbins are back in place. I need to machine a couple of M9 nuts as the originals fell into the black hole, never to be seen again.

[Peter Bremner]

When I rebuilt this engine I used a split locking washer under the pulley nut. I can see it had fallen apart and disappeared allowing the pulley to wobble.
Eventually the hardened camshaft completely wore away the splines on the pulley.
So far, left wing off, radiator off, battery out. The pulley still won’t come out. The rack will have to be moved to the left.
The rack can wait until tomorrow, I’ve had enough.
The new nut will be a nyloc with Loctite.

[Peter Bremner]

I didn’t have much time today. I did remove the nut from the pulley. Even without the nut the camshaft splines should engage with the pulley. The pulley is not connected to the splines.
Worst case is that the splines on the camshaft are kaput, but unlikely.
I shall pull off more stuff tomorrow and report.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, if you copy and paste bb fully linked the picture will appear in the thread.

[Peter Bremner]

For the handbrake, no.
For lights left on, yes!

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