Taking off a front wing is pretty straightforward. Left wing, it makes sense to mark thd wiring at the bulkhead. I use clip on numbers.
The crossbar that supports the air chute has to be undone on both sides. The swivelling head lamp cable needs to be split at the plastic joiner.
The feeds to the horns needs to be undone.
Any clamp holding the fresh air tubing at the front needs to undone and the tubing pulled off.
Similarly at the fan.
Undo the bolt in the wheel arch, just by the end of the bumper.
Undo the bolt at the front of the wing.
Wiggle out the bonnet catch cable.
Grab hold of the wing by the wheel arch and front of wing and pull.
The wing is located on two large pins at the rear.
It is heavy.
Don’t stand it upright, it will fall over.
Lay it on the lawn or blankets.
Why do you want to take the wing off?
Hello, unless you’re very lucky, you are opening a can of worms.
If you want it done well, it is going to cost, a lot.
A skim of filler and a blow over may hold it back for a while.
I’d be inclined to leave it alone and use the time to save some money, then get it done properly.
Did you get it sorted?
Are they swivelling or snivelling?
Plus this, that Paul posted in another thread.
The rest of the headlamp assembly.
Plus this, that Paul posted in another thread.
Duplicate post.
I also use Peter Best for off the road insurance while being restored.
Just incase some caravan using nomadic traveller takes a shine to it. Or more likely, I set the car on fire welding.
I used to use Footman James until the premium nearly trebled. When questioned, they blamed the underwriter.
I tried Peter Best, the same price as the old, pre price hike from FJ.
This year Peter Best went up by a couple of quid so I stayed with them.
They use the same underwriter at FJ!
Peter Best also do a separate pothole damage cover, handy where I live.
Crusty shaft repair.
Speedi Sleeves by SKF
Or if you feel flush, Belzona epoxy and machine back to size.
There are available ‘shaft savers’ made from very thin metal that slide down the shaft to the worn part. They are thin enough to fit under the rubber seal.
Brain not working today, (today?) they get mentioned a lot on the MIG Welding Forum.
The oil feed to the head is via a Banjo bolt. This is sealed by a special washer.
Der Franzose part numbers
30384
And
30270
Engineering shop for the guides.
Hello, 6.35mm. Your pipe flaring tool won’t work. The Citroen flare needs much more movement from the ram.
Have you tried Pleaides? No website, just phone them.
Please don’t mollycoddle it. Give it some welly.
Take cash, credit card and breakdown cover.
I’ve been flatbedded twice. Low pressure return hose split and when the camshaft pulley lost its splines.
Have fun.
I destroyed and was left stranded on the M25 by the camshaft pulley failing.
I had welded the centre.
My mistake?
Using a spring washer behind the nut. The washer failed allowing the pulley to fret. Eventually the splines wore away, red light of doom, a few hours in the services before a flatbed home.
For the want of 10mm extra clearance, the rack had to come out.
The new pulley has a nyloc nut with a dab of Loctite.
I did read the manual, and glazed over after a few minutes.
Your explanation is much better, thanks.
I can see my problem was not the height corrector but the linkages in the car.
Enjoy the rally, is the brass band playing Benny Goodman there again?
No, I’m trying to get my ride heights correct.
Rear is fine, front pumps up to the bump stops and stays there.
Height corrector apart today and see what sort of mess I’ve made with the linkages.
