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Hello, considering how much slack there is on the input shaft, I doubt the gearbox needs a breather.
The only thing to grab is an engine hoist and pull out the engine and gearbox.
Buy some spare 8mm sockets, they go walkabout.There are no tricks to rebuilding the engine. It is very straightforward. The dizzy drive is the only part that needs a bit more care. And the paper gaskets at the bottom of the liners.
Change it to 2175cc
123 ignition
Wosp starter motor
Wosp alternator (internal regulator, wiring needs changing)
Handbrake pads
Discs and pads
Usual consumables
A BFH and lump of wood to knock out the old liners
Plus
Two or three gallons of Jizer to clean the engine bay!You did say you’d won the lottery?
Other makes of car are allowed in.
You can bend Adian Pease’s ear (servicing the goddess) or have your ear bent by Nigel Wild.
Does the paddle steamer still do the Southsea Ryde crossing?
Have you the correct headlamps with four mounting points? Or has someone used mastic to hold them in place?
I showed someone how the wire from the rear works, oops, snapped off! Since then I fitted a turnbuckle. That, in combination with spring 8, keeps the headlamp fixed.
I regard the control wires from the ARBs to be a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.Have you tried giving the drain plug a thump upwards (into the tank) and then some Plus Gas penetetrating fluid (or 50/50 ATF/acetone).
Or a longer breaker bar!Strap it flat across the mouth, switch on and the tank rotates. Easier than shaking the tank to loosen the rust.
Removal is straightforward.
Drain the tank. Rear seat cushion comes out. Undo the tank cover bolts. Lift cover from rear then slide out. Undo tank straps at one end then unhook. Undo pipes. Remove sender earth and live.
Lift out tank, it’s heavy and awkward.If you feel brave, remove sender, add nuts and bolts, strap to a cement mixer and run for a while.
Paul, you’re keeping the old bearings for when you get your lathe and milling machine to act as spacers. The smaller ones can be made into ‘pushers’ to help align stuff in the three jaw chuck.
Once the rear brakes are adjusted, they rarely need touching ever again.
I undid my rear cylinder caps with the cylinder in a vice, Stilsons and a scaffold tube.When I bought my bearings I took the whole arm and bearing tube with me. Any other bearing suppliers near you?
Hello, I just kept working the adjuster nut back and forth. As there is no ratchet, they have to be tight.
I cleaned the arms with a flap disc then Jotun 87 epoxy primer then two pack black polyurethane.If you have the bearing dimensions, try the shop I linked to. No point in paying over the odds. They will post.
Visitors? What are they?
I made the mistake of removing the bearings first.
I took the arms, bearings etc to an old fashioned bearing shop. Nearly an hour later I had most of them, the others came in the post a couple of days later.https://george6415.wixsite.com/jmbelts
I had to buy the complete large roller bearing. The outer race is still on the shelf.
The front arms: I just paid up for refurbished ones.
The steering relays: My friend who did the cylindrical grinding also machined them to take the Der Franzose conversion to ball races. I didn’t trust my machining ability. I did buy the reamer though.
For those stupid bolts, I used this tool (from Amazon).
I may have had to grind the necessary end a bit thinner.Hello, before you get carried away, have you replacement bearings in your hands?
To remove the tang coshed into the groove, I used a drill at an angle to chew it out.
To remove the deeply inset outer race, I ran a bead of weld around the bearing surface of the race. That will shrink it. I also welded a nail across the bearing so I could drift it out.
The inner race I used heat and part of the bearing puller you show. I didn’t need the arms. My puller was Clarke. I tightened the bolts to lever it up then screwdrivers to ping it off.I can’t remember reassembly, sorry. Too long ago.
Adrian, are you still tripping over 2CV gearboxes? Or another Adrian on the Isle of Wight?
From my dodgy memory, undo the castellated nut and three outer nuts, interpose a lump of wood and then hit it, hard.
It is, by necessity, a very tight fit. I think they were line bored.Any progress on the cable? Or the petrol leak?
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