[Peter Bremner]

Luckily on mine, although the sills on both sides were rotten (double skinned on a Safari) that was about all.
The roof rail was in pristine condition. The rear windows needed repair panels.

I haven’t looked at the body panels for years, no idea what I’ll find!

[Peter Bremner]

Mine always comes on, regardless of the headlamps.
Have they taken a feed from the sidelights?

[Peter Bremner]

Today was the most hateful job there is, on any car. Fitting the exhaust.
Lying on my back trying to get the flexible to fit over the manifold. Files, sanding drums and emery cloth. Same at the silencer end. Finally, a good fit, then a smear of exhaust paste.
I haven’t used the standard U clamps, instead the Mikalor exhaust clamps.
I also haven’t bothered with the extra support from the block.
Getting the two pipes onto the silencer was particularly fraught. Exhaust paste everywhere, grit in my eyes and my ear started itching!
All done in the end.

Drive shafts next. Then fit one wheel and set the tappets.
At this rate I may have to start the engine!

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, you want the throttle rod level and square to the carb. Because there is no direct connection between the throttle pedal and the carb spindle, it has to be perfectly in line. Otherwise the springs won’t pull the throttle open.

[Peter Bremner]

Have you tried earthing the wire that goes to the switch? And is the switch body and its fixing clean and bright?

In the end with mine I bought a generic ‘mercury’ switch from ebay and stuck a large LED panel lamp between the speakers.
It’s like a scene from the Repo Man movie when I open the boot. Or the attaché case from Pulp Fiction to be a bit more up to date

[Peter Bremner]

A few hours on the lathe and I have two brass M9 studs and two M9 nuts. Good job my hourly is 1p per hour.
The radiator is now in and the radiator fan has been wired up. The fan will either come on automatically from the radiator switch or if I see trouble ahead, from a switch on the dashboard.
I had two sets of silicone hoses made for the DSuper5. I had to get the header tank hose made as well, only needed with the header tank. The silicone hoses need rolled edge Jubilee clips, ebay to the rescue.

Next is putting away the engine hoist and then jacking up onto really tall axle stands, ready for the exhaust.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, car electrics aren’t like house electrics in the UK.
The bulb contacts will show 12v.
The problem is the switch. Check it is earthing properly. I think the switch comes apart. Inside you’ll find a couple of crusty brass balls. When the boot opens, they roll to the end and make the earth connection with the contact.
It will all need cleaning.

With mine, I bought a new, generic switch from ebay.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, fitting all the other gubbins is a palaver. My home made copy of the handbrake spring compressor worked a treat.
You only discover the gearchange cable has to go over the clutch cable on the third attempt. Otherwise the clutch cable rubs on the steering column (left hand drive BVM).

I had some aluminium radiators made, copies of the cross flow injection radiator. They are also much thicker. It does mean it is better to Loctite some mounting studs into the bottom, rather than winding in a bolt until it cracks the core.
Today’s job is machining some M9 studs in brass, if the die turns up.

Yesterday I rigged up a battery to check on some wiring. Testing the wing wiring, nothing on any terminal. Scratching my head, checking and checking. Then, DOH!, I’d been checking the multipin plug, not the socket.

Cleaning 50 year old grease off the Triax’s is also on the cards, then I can fit a wheel and set the tappets. I’m sure I set them when I built the engine but my two month stay in hospital has messed with my memory. Best to check again.

[Peter Bremner]

Whatever you choose, get someone like Darrin (Citroen Classics) or Jamie (DS Workshop) to look at it.
A few quid upfront may save an absolute fortune later.

I’m biased as I have one and am changing my Safari to the same spec. A DSuper5, 2175cc, left hand drive is the one to go for.
A carby, so no one has fiddled or messed with electronic injection. Five speed manual, not as cool as the BVH but less to fiddle with. 2175cc so keeps up with modern traffic easily (I’m usually in lane at indicated 75).

[Peter Bremner]

Another option is Rain-X anti-fog. I used this when I raced, tricky to wipe the inside of the screen in a six point harness.
It’s the anti-fog product for inside the car.

[Peter Bremner]

I wouldn’t bother. Even if you can get it to stick, how many of the filaments will be working?
The only sure way is to replace the screen.
Mine does work (new screen). How many times have I used it? Twice in over ten years.

[Peter Bremner]

Exhausts and windscreens are a mystery to me. In the factory, fitting the screen is a five minute job, me, four hours.
Exhausts: with me they never line up, always leak and my jeans are covered in exhaust paste.

[Peter Bremner]

Finally, the engine and gearbox are in. Next is jacking the car up onto tall axle stands so I can fit the exhaust.

[Peter Bremner]

Much better, and the battery is back in its usual place.

[Peter Bremner]

Hmmmm…

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