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Yes, I do like a relay.
I put a 40 amp relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. The relay protects the delicate and expensive ignition switch.
I use ice cube relays with a relay socket. These fit quite well on the battery frame on the side away from the engine.The trouble with the extra reflector is that you go from three glowworms to one glowworm. A lot of the light spills out the back. You need all the light you can get.
I’d spend time fitting relays and heavier duty cables to main and dipped.
I fitted modern Hella headlamps to mine. A palaver, involving the kitchen oven while the wife was out. And no, I wasn’t cooking a roast.What is wrong with your headlights?
Have you tried Darrin at Citroen Classics or Sparrow (they restore and race prep 2CVs).
Do you need one for completeness or to start the car?
Hello, I’ve had a 2CV and a Dyanne. I can remember trying to start the 2CV with the starting handle. Kept turning it over and over, it would not start, I kept going until the bumper fell off. Then I called it a day.
I often had starting problems with the 2CV. Then I fitted the biggest possible battery that would fit. It never played up again, it daren’t.
As soon as the Dyanne arrived, brand new, the battery was soon changed to one a lot bigger.Both cars were written off, not by me.
Hello, I had my heater re-cored. It was £180 a couple of years ago. He managed to squeeze in two of the off the shelf heater cores.
I junked the Citroen valve and all the gubbins. I replaced all that carp with a taxi heater valve. I did have to adjust the internals so that red was hot and blue cold. I made an adaptor to replace the Citroen valve using a bit of brass and a 15mm copper 90 degree plumbing fitting and a bit of 15mm copper pipe and a 15mm olive on the end.If you keep the original valve, put a piece of heater hose under the valve. Everyone leans on the valve and cracks it.
Hello, I don’t think there is a pm facility on this forum.
With a towbar fitted, you’ll be able to crack your shins front and back!
Hello, I must admit I never bother releasing the pressure. I just jack up the car, put it on axle stands, faff about with the gaiter then use large water pump pliers to undo the sphere.
With the engine off, raising and lowering the arm with a jack dissipates the pressure.Are they working now?
Please don’t be tempted to down the LED route.
They are too bright
The contacts are often formed into a U over the end of the glass. This will cause a direct short
The LEDs are polarity conscious, a lot of messing about to get them to work
They don’t draw enough current to energise the alternator.If this is a three dial dash, don’t over tighten the corner screws, just the barest of nip is enough. Apprentice tight and the corners will snap off.
You could paint both sides with Bostik SBR and then lay it flat with weights on it. Lay it on polythene, or it will stick to the table!
Sorry, Adie Pease of Peacock Engineering in Norfolk. Very knowledgeable. Always at the DS rally fixing cars.
DS: tinkling noise, turn up the radio
SM: tinkling noise, the sound of £50 notes being torn up. Any missing trim or chrome will cost a fortune.
I’d be tempted to fit a DS23 engine or find one of the rare diesel conversions.I know of someone who recently spent £40K on a DS, against advice. Using fruit analogies, it was a lemon, rotten as a pear.
Whatever you buy, make sure you get it checked over by Adie, Darrin or Jamie. Whatever they charge, it will be worth it.Fantasy versus reality
Hello, when I did my DSuper5, I used plywood. The plywood was slightly thicker than the original millboard. The clips wouldn’t fit. I had to relieve each clip position with a Forstner bit.
I gave each side a couple of coats of varnish to protect against damp.
The overlap of the fabric was only three or four mm. Very tricky holding it in place and stapling.The Safari is poverty spec, I may make the panels from glassfibre and cover with something outrageous. It would have to be glued, staples bounce off glassfibre.
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