[Peter Bremner]

How about the offering from Der Franzose?

I’ve never seen one so am in the dark.

[Peter Bremner]

Unfortunately the saga was still not over. With the engine running,it was almost impossible to turn left, even with the wheels off the ground.
With suggestions from Paul I re-measured the steering arm to pinion pad again. I had messed up.
With the rack repositioned, normal service was resumed.

All this palaver caused by using the wrong pulley nut. A new Nyloc nut and Loctite should do the trick.

[Peter Bremner]

I think a bead or two of weld stops the chatter. The broken one had beads of weld, the rivets were tight, just not the nut holding it on.

I’m OK for pulleys thanks. Dead engines and gearboxes are a magnet for my shins.

[Peter Bremner]

That was not a job I wish to repeat too soon. 12 hours over four days.
I did take the opportunity to change the radiator fan switch to one which switches on at a higher temperature. I also added a drain tap to the aluminium radiator.

Once you’ve accepted what work has to be done to achieve the required outcome, you just have to get on with it. There was nothing tricky, just long winded.
I finished with one m9 nut extra because I found it stuck to the undertray. Plus a load of m4 and m5 nuts and washers. Only an optimist would drop one nut or washer and get one new one from the spares case. I always lose one, bring back five to replace it.

[Peter Bremner]

It may have been the loss of the spring washer I had used. These days spring washers are carp. Another factor may be the air-con compressor adding an extra jolt.
This time I’m going belt and braces, nyloc and threadlock.
The end of the camshaft was the same diameter along the threaded length. The nylon part definitely comes into play.

I shall put the dead pulley in the lathe and cut off the rivet heads to see how it comes apart.

[Peter Bremner]

[Peter Bremner]

The rack didn’t need to be removed, just completely undone, including the hydraulic connection.
Finally removed the pulley. The internal splines had disappeared. I used a whole spray can of brake cleaner to wash away all the pulley debris.
Before I installed the new pulley, I put two beads of weld on the front face and one bead of weld on the rear face. They should stop the rivets chattering, becoming loose and breaking.
You can see the welds I put on the old pulley.
Most of the gubbins are back in place. I need to machine a couple of M9 nuts as the originals fell into the black hole, never to be seen again.

[Peter Bremner]

When I rebuilt this engine I used a split locking washer under the pulley nut. I can see it had fallen apart and disappeared allowing the pulley to wobble.
Eventually the hardened camshaft completely wore away the splines on the pulley.
So far, left wing off, radiator off, battery out. The pulley still won’t come out. The rack will have to be moved to the left.
The rack can wait until tomorrow, I’ve had enough.
The new nut will be a nyloc with Loctite.

[Peter Bremner]

I didn’t have much time today. I did remove the nut from the pulley. Even without the nut the camshaft splines should engage with the pulley. The pulley is not connected to the splines.
Worst case is that the splines on the camshaft are kaput, but unlikely.
I shall pull off more stuff tomorrow and report.

[Peter Bremner]

Hello, if you copy and paste bb fully linked the picture will appear in the thread.

[Peter Bremner]

For the handbrake, no.
For lights left on, yes!

[Peter Bremner]

Did the eagle eyed notice a parking brake warning light marked P in white?

[Peter Bremner]

Here’s the wheel

[Peter Bremner]

Wrapped steering wheels.
I’ve wrapped the steering wheel, reasonably straightforward.
The plastic coating of the stem was a different matter. The original was badly damaged, so cut it off.
It has taken five attempts and eight feet of shrinkwrap to get it right to learn a technique.

What I’ve learnt.
You need a heat gun with a fishtail nozzle.
You need about one foot of 50mm black shrinkwrap.
You will also need asbestos fingers!

Once the wrap is threaded on to the stem, push it as far up to the wheel as possible. Gently heat the last inch until it shrinks a bit. Poke, push or cajole the wrap under the chrome finisher. Once it’s in a about quarter inch, heat just that area until it fully shrinks.
The important thing is to tightly wrap loom tape (non adhesive) around the shrunk part.
This holds it tight while you pull the rest of the wrap.
Only shrink about one inch at a time. You have to remember the wrap only shrinks in one direction, the diameter. Any creases across the stem have to be pulled taught. Hence the tape at the finisher is to stop it moving.
Slowly move down the stem to finish.
Once it’s shrunk, go over it all again on a hotter setting.
Then remove the loom tape. Ta Daa.

Being an idiot, I then shrunk on another layer. It went OK.

[Peter Bremner]

Citric acid, about 25g to one litre and soak overnight should get the rust off.
Or, spending your money, Evaporust will do it.
The thin plate under the rear left height corrector on mine was like a sieve. I covered one side with masking tape then spread Araldite on the other side. Once set, I did that again for the other side.
Once painted it looked OK.

How much of that part is visible? Should it be paint or chrome?

[Author]

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