[Peter Bremner]

I just wrote a long reply, tried to post and the poxy forum said members only.
Logged back in, post gone.
Can’t be bothered…..

[Peter Bremner]

Filler is like HP and tomato sauce, the profit is what’s left on the plate.

Here’s my super duper sanding block:

[Peter Bremner]

Next thing to make will be a four feet long sanding block…

[Peter Bremner]

The front left hand door has proved to be a PITA. The dents and creases proved difficult to remove.
I managed to get a reasonable improvement but ultimately the Upol Fantastic filler had to make an appearance.
I used 80 grit on the DA sander on the bare metal, then epoxy primer, then 80 grit again followed by the filler.
The small plastic spreaders are OK for scooping it of the tin and mixing, but hopeless for large areas.
To apply it I used a length of old plastic curtain rail. I put the filler all along the bottom edge of the door. Holding the rail at each end I used it to spread the filler.
It looks a lot of filler, but there is about 400g in total. Most is about 1mm thick.
More DA action tomorrow.

[Peter Bremner]

Paul is your man for replacement doors.

I went down the repair section route for inside and outside skins.
The inner skins looked ok until the rubber strip at the bottom was removed. The metal channel had rusted away, taking the skin with it.
The outer skins were gnarly and rusty. The skin fold was very rusty.
The repair skins aren’t wonderful. The inner skin is OK. The outer skin hasn’t the correct curves.
Before removing the outer skin I scored a line 10 inches from the bottom. This allowed me to clamp the new skin in the correct position.
I used plug welds every inch to join them together.
Replacing the entire outer skin is a challenge.
I’m relying on filler to make good.
Once I’ve hung the doors and wings I can use filler to get it right (ish).

If my doors had been good but just dented, I’m sure I could have corrected the dents.
The problem is welds don’t respond to panel beating.
On the final door I will spend more time getting the profiles correct before welding.
And buy another big tub of filler!

[Peter Bremner]

A foregone conclusion, myself and panel beating don’t get on.
Hooray for filler! Lots of it.

[Peter Bremner]

Here are a few things I can recommend if revitalising your loom. All from Vehicle Wiring Products.

A much more elegant way to attach cables to the battery post.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-46-battery-fittings-isolators/c-91-clamps-clips/p-279-battery-stud-nut-clamp

A much better starter motor cable, the longest one will reach from a left side battery to the starter. Buy the thicker cable.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-48-cables/c-93-pre-made-battery-leads/p-579-battery-starter-cable

A 4, 6 or 8 way fuse box with blade fuses. Not original but blade fuses are reliable. You can get fuses that glow if blown.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-122-blade-fuse-holders/p-662-surface-mount-side-entry-blade-fuse-box

If you you have a daisy wheel solenoid on the battery, you could replace it with a 70 amp relay. The daisy wheel petals wear and burn.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-647-12v-70-amp-high-current-relay

I’m a sucker for fuses and relays!

Peter

[Peter Bremner]

Peter here again.
Have you an alternator with an external regulator in a box on the side of the battery or an internal regulator?

There is something about BVH and the ignition warning light if you opt for internal regulation.

Citroen did odd things with the wiring. The cable from the battery has two other wires spliced to it within the loom tape. Maybe they changed something and opted for three separate cables.

Paul will chime in soon with his experience. Paul also has a BVH. Mine are both BVM.

[Peter Bremner]

Calling Paul.
I’m sure Paul bought a new loom from the man who makes them.
The looms are a minefield with umpteen variations.
I make my own, not too difficult if you are methodical.
Do you mean a new ignition key or ignition switch? Three dial dash or earlier?

[Peter Bremner]

The last time I polished something on my bench grinder when I took off my goggles I looked like Stirling Moss after a race.

[Peter Bremner]

Regarding the bolt on part that hooks the bonnet. How about bolting it on as is then using a crescent wrench to bend and twist it to the correct position?
I’m good at brute and ignorance.

[Peter Bremner]

A DS is a baptism of fire!
I broke myself in gently with a Triumph Bonneville, then the mechanics of a Frogeye Sprite, then a Marcos Coupé.
My first full on restoration was the four seater Marcos Mantis. A hateful car that would break down in the garage. I sold that to Jem Marsh (Mar of Marcos). They crashed it into a wall because the clutch had rusted together.
The biggest mistake I made was starting off with half inch drive sockets. Now I use 1/4″ almost exclusively.

[Peter Bremner]

On the first two doors I repaired, they needed at least 6mm of filler at the join to restore the contour. The third door will need about 3mm of filler.
My overall attitude has also changed due the conflict of ambition over ability.
The thrust of my restoration is now for good mechanics and a non rusting body.
The Safari will fall into the category of good for an amateur, poor for a professional restoration.
After seven motorbike and eight car restorations I’ve almost had enough. The next restoration will be my 1940s milling machine.

[Peter Bremner]

Two doors too late I’ve realised the outer skin repair panels are folded too much at the swage line.
I had tacked the third skin on when I saw the problem. I cut off the tacks. With the skin on the bench, and the folded ends straightened, I squashed the panel flat with my hands.
It didn’t go completely flat, there was still quite a swage line. When slid back into place, there was no longer a dip at the join.
With a plug weld every inch, it is definitely on.

Next was removing the multiple dents. You really have to thump the skin to push out the dents. Tippy tapping just does not work.
The dents are now down to small bumps and hollows. More crash, bang, wallop tomorrow. Then the DA with 80 grit and epoxy primer.
And filler.

[Peter Bremner]

About 40 years ago I bought a pack of 1 metre long silicon bronze brazing wires for £25. I have hardly used any, except as a “fish” to pull wires through pipes etc. I recently discovered they are worth a fortune!

Now I just use general purpose fluxed brazing rods 3.2mm. I still use extra flux, SIF bronze. If you can get it, you can use borax.

I do have oxy-acetylene. The general purpose rods can be used with MAPP gas, but blowlamps tend to heat up large areas.

[Author]

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