Peter Bremner

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 543 total)
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  • in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10754

    I blew through my banjo bolt just to make sure, 20W50 oil isn’t the greatest taste.
    I gave the clips on the LHM pipe an extra tweak, leak has gone for now. I have ordered 8mm and 10mm pipes and two joiners, then I’ll have a spare.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10752

    Today I undid the banjo oil feed to the head and span the engine. After a few revs, oil pumped out the fitting. I re-annealed the copper washer thing and tightened it.
    I restarted the engine and the oil pressure is better.
    I’ve also ordered a remote oil pressure kit so I can check the pressure.

    The Citroen oil pressure switch is set to about 2 or 3 psi, or basically wet with oil.

    If you can get underneath, access is reasonable, preferably with a ring spanner. Once it’s out, a blast with brake cleaner up the spout of the switch may help.

    A 10 psi switch is on order, I already have the adaptor for the block (M10 to 1/8 bsp).

    And this is meant to be fun!

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10748

    Hello, although the oil pressure warning light comes on at rest and goes off at 1000 revs, it comes on at tickover. On my saloon the pressure never drops that low.
    Something is wrong.
    I shall check the switch but I expect the engine will have to come out, again.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10746

    It lives!

    It also bleeds. A small LHM leak from the pressure regulator return hose.
    I tried using 10mm bore fuel pipe, but it is the stupid hose with different bores at each end.
    I should have silver soldered a sleeve onto the pipe to make both ends the same. But I didn’t. If I can find it, I’ll put on my thinking cap to overcome the problem.

    in reply to: Wheel Toe-In Issues #10722

    Hello, thumping with a mallet won’t do any harm. Potholes at speed give a much bigger jolt.
    I use two big hammers and a crowbar. Simultaneous hits on either side of the joint plus my foot on a crowbar does the trick. I often fall over when they separate!

    Mine is still on stands so no news regarding toe out.

    in reply to: Road Horns -Setting tone? #10719

    With my Safari rebuild, I carefully placed the horns in the bin and replaced with Stebel Nautilus air horns. They are LOUD.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10715

    When the car was delivered by Shipley, the first thing it did was dump all its LHM on the drive. As I watched that puddle get bigger and bigger it was joined by a jet black puddle of oil from the leaking oil pressure switch.
    I have bought a 26mm combination spanner in case I need to nip it up.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10713

    Clanger, and not the whistling woolen aliens.
    Oil pressure light would not illuminate. Bulb OK. Wiring OK.
    I had changed to a 20psi switch. Original is 4psi and when it fails it dumps the oil. In my ignorance I wrapped the switch threads with PTFE tape and had electrically insulated the switch.
    Easy to change on the bench, an absolute bas***d in situ. I had to borrow a 26mm ring spanner and attack from underneath.
    Done now. The oil pressure warning light now illuminates. Result.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10707

    The left shaft is in, despite a comedy of errors.
    Whilst sitting on my little stool, I managed to knock a shelf support and a twelve inch sanding block landed on my head.
    To fit the Triax ligarex I had to lie on the floor. Cramp in my thigh!
    It’s a good job no one saw me.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10706

    Niggles…
    Plumb in the bottom hose, heater hose, hose to header tank and hose to water pump. Try to fit alternator, no chance. Alternator out, all clamps undone, fit alternator. Tighten clamps. Great.
    Spin the steering wheel, the rectangular block hits the pipework.
    Alternator out, clamps undone, pipes readjusted, clamps tightened. All OK.
    Try to spin wheel from lock to lock, clunk and the wheel stops. Took off the relay arms, lock to lock ok, so not the rack.
    The angle of dangle of the steering relays was wrong, causing the lock nut on the steering arm to hit the chassis.
    Undo relays, fit spacers, all good.
    I’ve fitted the right drive shaft, left will have wait until tomorrow.

    in reply to: Wheel Toe-In Issues #10705

    Hello, don’t go mad chopping off bits. I’d do 5mm off each to start with. Is your car running and on the ground at the correct ride height? If not, wait until it is.

    in reply to: Wheel Toe-In Issues #10702

    I’m told the new rods are too long and was advised to cut 5-10mm off the end.
    Toe-in needs to be measured at normal ride height.
    I’m having the exact same problem. I cut 10mm off the rod and 5mm off the new ball joint.
    Mine is still on axle stands (drive shafts yet to be fitted) so I can’t adjust mine properly.

    in reply to: Seems like a bargain ? #10698

    Presumably PDL is Pays De La Loire and not Ponta Delgardo in the Azores.
    But what is underneath?

    Where is that advert?

    in reply to: Hello from Wiltshire #10695

    A good job mine is a DSUPER5, none of that trim malarkey.
    At the DS rally I’ll be burned at the stake for the trim in my Safari. Pallas it is not.

    in reply to: Rear Screen Heater #10690

    Hello, have you pulled courtesy switches from the A pillar?
    Dead simple. Make sure the wires don’t disappear (clothes pegs).
    The end unscrews so you can clean the little contact washer.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 543 total)