Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Citric acid, about 25g to one litre and soak overnight should get the rust off.
Or, spending your money, Evaporust will do it.
The thin plate under the rear left height corrector on mine was like a sieve. I covered one side with masking tape then spread Araldite on the other side. Once set, I did that again for the other side.
Once painted it looked OK.How much of that part is visible? Should it be paint or chrome?
Do Darrin or Jamie have better examples? Jamie is away until next week.
My Safari has an original temperature gauge. Ignition off, needle at bottom.
Ignition on, needle rises to the middle of the scale.
Start the engine, needle drops back to bottom then slowly rises with engine temperature.My saloon uses a converted fuel gauge. Needle only moves with rising engine temperature.
I fitted a 105ºC temperature warning switch.
Now comes the tedious bit, bodywork.
Previously restored cars have been plywood and glassfibre (early Marcos) or plain glassfibre (later Marcos and Piper).
Replacing curvy rusted steel is not my forte. Luckily, filler is.Looking in my crystal ball I can forsee many trips to AFT Fluorotec in Welwyn Garden City. Burning off the paint and filler in their oven. Home to repair. Back again to hot zinc spray the seams. Back home for epoxy primer.
But can only do one panel at a time to stop flash rusting.The top coats will be cellulose. Pretty user friendly and doesn’t need a separate air supply to the hood.
After I think, six years, the Safari is back on wheels on terra firma.
It is surprising how much smaller the car looks now it is on the floor.
Quite a palaver as the axle stands were two feet high. Blocks of wood, three trolley jacks and a lot of huffing and puffing.It was exciting when the last few inches were at 32 feet per second per second. At least the bump stops worked.
The 8mm ID hose has arrived, I have plenty of 10mm. Jeff Bezos delivered some brass 8mm/10mm adaptors.
It is a simple enough job from underneath if the undertray hasn’t been fitted.
Except the 8mm pipe won’t go over the nipple part of the tube without using a hot air gun.
It’s also best to plan the route of the hose, it may save you three attempts to get it right.At this rate I may have to start on bodywork…
Hello, no glue at all yet. I put the tape in the sun to warm it up. It has a bit of stretch.
You need to check both sides after each turn to make sure the back is overlapped like the front. I had to undo the tape a few times, so I’m glad there was no glue or double sided tape.
I’m leaving it in the sun to warm up and then I’ll grip and twist to make it tighter.
I haven’t cut the end taper yet.I’m now attempting to wrap the steering wheel. My word, a very frustrating and long winded job.
I’ll persevere but I’m tempted to get the foam wheel (original) exchanged for a refurbished one.I blew through my banjo bolt just to make sure, 20W50 oil isn’t the greatest taste.
I gave the clips on the LHM pipe an extra tweak, leak has gone for now. I have ordered 8mm and 10mm pipes and two joiners, then I’ll have a spare.Today I undid the banjo oil feed to the head and span the engine. After a few revs, oil pumped out the fitting. I re-annealed the copper washer thing and tightened it.
I restarted the engine and the oil pressure is better.
I’ve also ordered a remote oil pressure kit so I can check the pressure.The Citroen oil pressure switch is set to about 2 or 3 psi, or basically wet with oil.
If you can get underneath, access is reasonable, preferably with a ring spanner. Once it’s out, a blast with brake cleaner up the spout of the switch may help.
A 10 psi switch is on order, I already have the adaptor for the block (M10 to 1/8 bsp).
And this is meant to be fun!
Hello, although the oil pressure warning light comes on at rest and goes off at 1000 revs, it comes on at tickover. On my saloon the pressure never drops that low.
Something is wrong.
I shall check the switch but I expect the engine will have to come out, again.It lives!
It also bleeds. A small LHM leak from the pressure regulator return hose.
I tried using 10mm bore fuel pipe, but it is the stupid hose with different bores at each end.
I should have silver soldered a sleeve onto the pipe to make both ends the same. But I didn’t. If I can find it, I’ll put on my thinking cap to overcome the problem.Hello, thumping with a mallet won’t do any harm. Potholes at speed give a much bigger jolt.
I use two big hammers and a crowbar. Simultaneous hits on either side of the joint plus my foot on a crowbar does the trick. I often fall over when they separate!Mine is still on stands so no news regarding toe out.
With my Safari rebuild, I carefully placed the horns in the bin and replaced with Stebel Nautilus air horns. They are LOUD.
When the car was delivered by Shipley, the first thing it did was dump all its LHM on the drive. As I watched that puddle get bigger and bigger it was joined by a jet black puddle of oil from the leaking oil pressure switch.
I have bought a 26mm combination spanner in case I need to nip it up. -
AuthorPosts
