[patrick ryan]

Thanks

[patrick ryan]

so.in series with the mechanical pump I take it and no impedance to petrol flow to the pump.Why not have the pump the whole time?

[patrick ryan]

well, I’ve done most of that. The bonnets been up and down countless times Nd I did do the valve clearances. The car came with a lot of maintenance history unusually.
I think i will try and get everything new on the sparking side and get the fuel pump in and the carb cleaned an adjusted then see.. the air filter is the metal mesh one .
thanks for your input. I will probably buy the lower pressure genuinefacet pump.

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Peter
all useful questions
I’ve had fun and games already. Fitted a non return valve that worked for a few days before blocking the flow! A glass filter that also seemed to block. Have tried to divert the fuel hose away from the engine and water hose. changed the points condenser,terminal fittings coil and ballast resistor to sparkrite(cheap) . New plugs. The timing is correct for the dy2 engine and there is advancement on strobe timing I haven’t changed the bougicord ht leads and the original rotor arm and dizzy cap. I think in the first instance it would be best to renew the conventional set up rather than spend £400 plus the cost of a new coil . I am looking out for a cheap NOS SEV cap and rotor arm on ebay.
Anyway ,I will look at fuelling first. fettle the carburettor check the butterflies opens as they should and get the pump fitted.
I do indeed have a “cheap knock off copy” of the box style pump with 8mm ends I think I ordered the one with lower pressure 1.5-4 psi and I assume the low range posiflow is what you have. I think I will fit my one first off as proof of concept as proof of concept and if successful maybe switch to a facet.posiflow .I will need to use up most of the fuel before iIcut the nylon pipe .Is it difficult and what is the I.D. I assume that brass hose connectors will work instead of the “top hats”

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Paul
It never occurred to me that the carb ferrules could fall out!
I’ll add it to the list
In the meantime anyone else there with 123 experience ;before and after? My engine pickup is incredibly slow when blipping the throttle but perhaps they all are.

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Peter , that’s helpful. I did mean the open channel withe the pipe in. Will try blowing through the pump again to check for resistance to flow and look for a suitable site to mount. I expect all this will take me ages as all projects on this car seem to throw up unanticipated problems

[patrick ryan]

Hi Peter,
I am down near portsmouth.
please see my reply to Paul re the “passive resistance” of my facet pump. I wondered if the mechanical pump could suck through this..I can see it would be alot easire to have the pump running just at start up.I have alos seen a post about wirng the pump into the starter solenoid circuit.I think i will bypass the mechanical pump.
When you say the sill wher do you mean ? All advice suggests as near to the petrol tank as possible so i assume right atthe back. Where did you take the power supply from and how did you route it through the sill.I suppose along the route of the fuel pipe.
Think i will do the fuel pump and rebuild the carburettor prior to the expense of a 123.

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Paul,
I got as far as taking the sill covers off and then bottled it. The facet style pump i bought needs some pressure to blow through so i assumed it would need to be working the whole time the engine is running with a suitable cut out safety switch maybe based on the oil pressure switch and a bypass to the mechanical pump. i was considering adding it in parallel to the fuel line but then the fuel might just go backwards
funnily enough the carburettor side hose perished enough to allow a jet of petrol to go over the coil but i was lucky to spot that one pretty well as soon as it happened.at least I know the nechanical pump works.

[patrick ryan]

Hi
I do have a choice of mountings but I found it very difficult to fit my chosen inertia reel seatbelts in the lower sill mount anyway and the belt was very stiff and got caught up with the front seat, hence the move back a few inches and up to the upper sill that works perfectly but impinges into the passenger entry as though opposite the b post is essentially in the rear compartment. Unlikely to bother me much though will be a bit awkward for passengers. Plan B would have been standard belts.
Next job is to move the seat mounting back as there isn’t enough rearward movement for comfort for my long legs. I bought replacement seat runners from a French car to replace the SA ones. The obvious way is to drill the holes to be further back but no doubt it will be harder than I think. Has anyone else modified the mounting. as my legs arent that long around 33 inside leg?

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Paul,
that seems like a lot of detective work. wish I’d asked first as the whole saga took a few hours in the end by the time I had every tap and bolt out of my garage and looked on the internet. who would have guessed Citroen would have gone their own way? there are lots of weird bolt sizes like 7 and 9 mm so I should have guessed 11 would be next in the sequence.
I ended up tapping out to 12×1.5 on one sill as the threads were knackered and the 7/16 unf on the other which seems to torque up ok. no longer concours then ha ha

[patrick ryan]

Thanks Paul
the securon bolts are a standard 7/16 unf (tpi20)which is said to be the worldwide standard though i note that 11×1.25 bolts are advertised for the 2cv upper mount which is an almost but not quite identical size. I suspect corrosion may have knackered the threads and I was trying to reuse the old bolts which originally needed a lot of force to put in to some of the other rear and front mounts and also a lot of force to remove.screwing them in the sill knackered the ends.Ihave a 7/16 unf tap so will have another go at that and purchase new high tensile bolts. unless I hear different in the next day or two.Thanks for the tip about access.

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