[Ian Anderson]

I’m an infomration scientist by profession and don’t do Facebook for the above reasons, plus several others. I have been tempted to join against my better jusdgement for the Citroen community on there but have resisted the temptation so far… Anyway, fingers crossed someone has a couple gathering dust in their garage.

[Ian Anderson]

I saw the DS TT video and was a bit confused as well. I bought a Fram CA5279 (for Nissan Sunny 2 and 3 and 100NX – 1990 to about 94/95 I think). It just goes straight in, no sealant, nothing. Had to cover the central hole with a bit of gaffer tape but that was it, perfect fit.

[Ian Anderson]

Well done Paul, a great achievement and milestone. Had it running in the car yet?

[Ian Anderson]

My car is parked on the street all year round, not a problem insuring it. I’m with Footman James.

[Ian Anderson]

Paul Burridge wrote:

Hi
I’ve got a bvh clutch so I’m not familiar with the linkage for a manual pedal but here goes. I’m going to assume your car has a three finger clutch but my logic (if it’s correct!) holds good for a diaphragm clutch. Here goes….

When a clutch friction plate wears, the clutch fingers are able to pivot in slightly from their original set-up. This has the effect of moving the finger tips (the bits that the thrust bearing touches) further out. To compensate for this, the bottom end of the clutch fork also has to be moved out – away from the clutch. Away from the engine.

To achieve this, the top, visible end of the fork needs to be moved towards the engine. This is done by moving the adjuster on the clutch fork out – so that more of the thread is showing on the hex end side of the adjuster.

If your adjuster is almost fully wound out (almost falling out of the eye that it threads through) than that does (by my logic) suggest it could be compensating for a worn friction plate.

Sometimes parts of the clutch weaken and bend. If the clutch fingers had bent, you would be needing to wind the adjuster in more (so that there was less/ little thread on the hex head end). If the fork itself bent, then again i think the compensation for this is to wind the adjuster in more. If the cable stretches, again i think you need to wind the adjuster in so that it maintains contact with the operating rod

If I’ve misunderstood and your adjuster needs to be set so that the adjuster is almost fully wound in, (so there is virtually no thread left showing on the hex end,) then it doesn’t sound as though that is down to a worn friction plate. Well – not if my understanding of the clutch movement is correct. In this circumstance, i would first replace the cable and see if that does it?

I’d be interested to see if people have other views on this as there are a lot of movements involved in clutch operation and i may have this wrong.

You’re spot on Paul. I think I was thrown by how badly the clutch was adjusted originally. Mine is now would out more (towards the rack) with more sensible free play and biting point. Incidentally, I saw the same adjuster in a pic of a BVH car, which makes sense when you think about it. The hydraulics replacing the job of the clutch pedal and cable, but otherwise a single plate standard clutch and gearbox.

[Ian Anderson]

I fitted a new mechanical fuel pump and although improved, still had the ‘a dozen attempts to get it started after it had been stood a couple of days’ routine. I’d stuck to the choke out / no throttle instructions but in a fit if pique prodded the throttle like I was putting out a fire, it started almost instantly. I have suspicions over the carb float (holed or otherwise sitting too low) but woth a try.

[Ian Anderson]

That’s a very useful photo Jeremy, thank you.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul, I’m going to give it another adjustment and see what it’s like. It could be any or none of the things you mention! I’ve got the Scottish Technical weekend coming up so thought that would be an ideal opportunity to change the clutch if it needed it, but I don’t fancy spending £500 on parts I don’t need.

[Ian Anderson]

I tried to edit the above but it didn’t update the changes. Anyway, that sounds logical Paul but I think it operates the other way round? A pic might help:
[/url]
This was taken before I changed the pivot and there’s a bit more wound out, but not much. Winding it out (towards the rack) increases the gap between the clutch fork and the release bearing and also increases the free play at the pedal. Winding it in, decreases clearance etc.

[Ian Anderson]

That sounds logical Paul but I think mine is the other way round. A pic might help:
[/url]
I’ve not actually tried winding out completely the other way. The orignal adjustment was all sorts of wrong, play in pedal being achieved by slack in the clutch cable.

[Ian Anderson]

Mine lives outside 24/7. I bought a Sealey outdoor car cover for the winter (one of these shop around), which has been okay, but not great. It will get saturated, it will trap moisture, it will stay put even in gale force winds, it did stop the passenger footwell filling up with water (which mysteriously now seems to have fixed itself). I suspect it wouldn’t be good for the paintwork but mines so poor it’s hard to tell. If mine stays leak free I might not bother again.

[Ian Anderson]

I saw this interesting video on YouTube Sound Deadening. The result was marginal improvement with three layers. I think the big issue with the D, as Peter’s picture shows, are the large number of huge holes in the dash/bulkhead. I know stuff fills them (up to a point) but they act as huge channels for NVH regardless. I still intend to do something similar mind, man are they noisy!

[Ian Anderson]

That’s looking good Paul. As ever, mighty impressed with your work, puts me to shame. I’ve been trying to find the time to just change the gearbox oil for weeks!

[Ian Anderson]

Great photos Peter and glad to hear you’re back on your feet, sounds horrible. I’m in the ‘ignorance is bliss’ category. Enough issues have made themselves known without me going looking for them!

[Ian Anderson]

Marcus Carlton wrote:

But the days of the £8000 daily driver are history.

I agree, I paid £7k for mine last year 😉 Not without it’s issues but it goes, stops, steers, new MOT and hasn’t collapsed into a pile of rust (yet). To be honest though it was a bit of a unicorn. It wasn’t widely advertised, viewings / test drives / purchase took a couple of months for logistical reasons and ultimately the seller was very fair on the price. The car was local to me and I was in no rush which all helped (not least in domestic negotiations). Paul’s £1474.25 in 1995 is £3,626.10 in today’s money… which seems the bottom of the market for a full on restoration job.

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