[Ian Anderson]

For future reference Car Builder will make up hoses, at least if you’ve bought one of their AC kits.

[Ian Anderson]

Thansk Peter, I’m not rebuilding the mount myself as I don’t have the facilities. All my work on the car is done on the street so got an already rebuilt one.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul, that’s much apprecited. I’d not seen that diagram before. I’ll go for 96mm. I’ve also read that som mechanics at the time just set them to max height ot get the most life out of them!

[Ian Anderson]

I know I’m late to the party but when I got my RHD manual D Super the clutch adjment was all sorts of wrong. There should be a thread on here somewhere from not so long ago, Paul helped me with that. Essentially after replacing a very worn clutch pivot I figured out the play at the pedal had been achieved by having slack in the cable. There shouldn’t be with correctly adjusted clutch pedal height etc. Once that was done I could adjust the gap J and 5 & 6 in the above diagram properly. A newish clutch you would expect the threaded rod to be would in towards the engine. As the clutch wears you adjust it out towards the steering rack. Servicing the Godess on YouTube has a good video on it.

[Ian Anderson]

My lowly D Super doesn’t have the ashtray light or the heater control lights, but they’re something I want to add. Having looked into it I’m sure the ahstray light just screws onto the bulkhead, through the insulation, directly behind the ashtray. You might find witness marks that show you where it goes exactly.

[Ian Anderson]

I’m very much enjoying reading about your progress Peter. A friend and I spent eight hours fitting an exhaust to my D last weekend, which was about twice as long as I thought it would take, c’est la vie! My tuppence worth is Bilt Hamber before the loom, so you can be sure it’s going where it needs to without a loom in the way? I can’t see that the loom would benefit from it and I’m not sure what’s in it to be confident it wouldn’t turn your loom icky over time.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul, that sounds logical to me, I’ll need to go and have a fettle once it gets above freezing!

Ian

[Ian Anderson]

Mighty impressed with your work there.

[Ian Anderson]

I took another look at my filter the other day and it just sits right in the bottom half of the filter, the rubber lip making a tight seal all the way around, no way for air to get past it. The rubber gasket just seals the top and bottom parts of the filter housing together, it doesn’t need stretching round the filter element.

I used a paper element as I didn’t have any petrol to clean the original one and as I don’t have a garage I don’t think my wife would appreciate me cleaning and oiling a filter in the kitchen sink. A lot of messy faff IMHO. I suspect the paper ones flow and filter better as well, although I’m sure the industry switch to disposable filters was motivated most by service times and being able to flog filters.

[Ian Anderson]

Castrol RR363, or whoever makes it now, seems to be the accepted alternative to LHS (LHS Substitute), you can get it cheaper in the UK as it’s used on some Rolls Royces etc. (Flying Spares RR363). My car is LHM so I’ve no personal experiecne of this. From what I understand properly converting from LHS to LHM isn’t worth the time/cost unless you’re doing a full nut and bolt rebuild anyway.

[Ian Anderson]

I’m an infomration scientist by profession and don’t do Facebook for the above reasons, plus several others. I have been tempted to join against my better jusdgement for the Citroen community on there but have resisted the temptation so far… Anyway, fingers crossed someone has a couple gathering dust in their garage.

[Ian Anderson]

I saw the DS TT video and was a bit confused as well. I bought a Fram CA5279 (for Nissan Sunny 2 and 3 and 100NX – 1990 to about 94/95 I think). It just goes straight in, no sealant, nothing. Had to cover the central hole with a bit of gaffer tape but that was it, perfect fit.

[Ian Anderson]

Well done Paul, a great achievement and milestone. Had it running in the car yet?

[Ian Anderson]

My car is parked on the street all year round, not a problem insuring it. I’m with Footman James.

[Ian Anderson]

Paul Burridge wrote:

Hi
I’ve got a bvh clutch so I’m not familiar with the linkage for a manual pedal but here goes. I’m going to assume your car has a three finger clutch but my logic (if it’s correct!) holds good for a diaphragm clutch. Here goes….

When a clutch friction plate wears, the clutch fingers are able to pivot in slightly from their original set-up. This has the effect of moving the finger tips (the bits that the thrust bearing touches) further out. To compensate for this, the bottom end of the clutch fork also has to be moved out – away from the clutch. Away from the engine.

To achieve this, the top, visible end of the fork needs to be moved towards the engine. This is done by moving the adjuster on the clutch fork out – so that more of the thread is showing on the hex end side of the adjuster.

If your adjuster is almost fully wound out (almost falling out of the eye that it threads through) than that does (by my logic) suggest it could be compensating for a worn friction plate.

Sometimes parts of the clutch weaken and bend. If the clutch fingers had bent, you would be needing to wind the adjuster in more (so that there was less/ little thread on the hex head end). If the fork itself bent, then again i think the compensation for this is to wind the adjuster in more. If the cable stretches, again i think you need to wind the adjuster in so that it maintains contact with the operating rod

If I’ve misunderstood and your adjuster needs to be set so that the adjuster is almost fully wound in, (so there is virtually no thread left showing on the hex end,) then it doesn’t sound as though that is down to a worn friction plate. Well – not if my understanding of the clutch movement is correct. In this circumstance, i would first replace the cable and see if that does it?

I’d be interested to see if people have other views on this as there are a lot of movements involved in clutch operation and i may have this wrong.

You’re spot on Paul. I think I was thrown by how badly the clutch was adjusted originally. Mine is now would out more (towards the rack) with more sensible free play and biting point. Incidentally, I saw the same adjuster in a pic of a BVH car, which makes sense when you think about it. The hydraulics replacing the job of the clutch pedal and cable, but otherwise a single plate standard clutch and gearbox.

[Author]

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