[Ian Anderson]

Paul Burridge wrote:

Hi. It’s pretty much as Peter said. The full Citroen instructions are at operation D-142-0 in volume 1 of manual 814. it’s fairly near the front of the book – just before the pages on carburettors.

it’s just one page – but helpful.

Thanks Paul, my D-142-0 in 814 doesn’t have that, just on how to measure and adjust the springs on the throttle control rod.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Peter. That makes sense. I suspect it had been adjusted prior to my ownership to compensate for collapsed engine mounts.

[Ian Anderson]

I don’t think so. I’m sure I read it in the owners manual.

[Ian Anderson]

Peter Bremner wrote:

Today was the most hateful job there is, on any car. Fitting the exhaust.
Lying on my back trying to get the flexible to fit over the manifold. Files, sanding drums and emery cloth. Same at the silencer end. Finally, a good fit, then a smear of exhaust paste.
I haven’t used the standard U clamps, instead the Mikalor exhaust clamps.
I also haven’t bothered with the extra support from the block.
Getting the two pipes onto the silencer was particularly fraught. Exhaust paste everywhere, grit in my eyes and my ear started itching!
All done in the end.

Drive shafts next. Then fit one wheel and set the tappets.
At this rate I may have to start the engine!

I feel your pain. Flexi into the main silencer was incredibly tight. I used Mikalor clamps but the they weren’t strong enough to clamp stainless, started to bend and one of the bolts actually snapped. Tried a different brand of clamps, same result, so back to ugly U clamps. I now know why the previous owner welded up the joints on the old exhaust…

[Ian Anderson]

Impressive work Peter. I’m about to have my allet drained by some welding work, so the car’s still firmly in the looking worse before it gets better stage.

[Ian Anderson]

I thought my bootlight wasn’t working, then realised it was only supposed to come on with the headlights on. Which kind of makes sense, but also deoesn’t, in that Citroen way.

[Ian Anderson]

It took me three attempts to get my exhaust to seal up, using silicone exhaust paste helped (I used Wurth Silicone Special 180). Although I can’t detect any leaks I’m still not convinced it’s as quiet as it should be…

[Ian Anderson]

Looking good Peter, Bon Courage!

[Ian Anderson]

Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. Looking at RAL 7044 it definitely doesn’t have a pink tinge to it, must be a close match for AC 140 Gris Roue. Mind you, anything will be better than the ‘Rouillier Brun’ that mine are.

[Ian Anderson]

I like the idea of pyrolytic cleaning / thermal stripping but logistics might be prohibitive. I’ve got to work on my car in the street so there’a a limit to what I can do myself.

[Ian Anderson]

I’m in a similar situation Khalad, but being in Scotland the usual specialists mentioned (Citroen Classics, DS Workshop, Pallas Autos) aren’t very convenient. What I found helpful was just apeaking to other local classic owners and I’ve got a couple of well recommended leads. You don’t need a DS specialist to paint a D, they’re not a dificult car to paint (no door shuts to worry about etc) but whatever the car, prep is the key to a good finish. This is what your paying for and I’d be surprised you’d get a good job for £4k. Take a panel that needs no repair work: back to bare metal, epoxy, fill and sand, primer, fill and sand again, primer again, colour coat (probably two or three), clear coat (porbably two), polish. Easily 8-10 hours work, so say £600 a panel, x 12 panels = £7,200. Add in dismouting the panels, stripping them down, fitting them back up, remouting them, alignment etc. and you’re soon into five figure territory. Have a look at Painting Classic Cars on YouTube for an idea of what’s involved (I might even consider sending my panels to them).

For what it’s worth my approach is going to be to get a local fabricator to do the repairs (a few 10p sized patches, lower door skins etc.) then dismount and strip the panels myself, hand them over for painting, and fit up and remount them myself to try and keep costs down.

[Ian Anderson]

For future reference Car Builder will make up hoses, at least if you’ve bought one of their AC kits.

[Ian Anderson]

Thansk Peter, I’m not rebuilding the mount myself as I don’t have the facilities. All my work on the car is done on the street so got an already rebuilt one.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul, that’s much apprecited. I’d not seen that diagram before. I’ll go for 96mm. I’ve also read that som mechanics at the time just set them to max height ot get the most life out of them!

[Ian Anderson]

I know I’m late to the party but when I got my RHD manual D Super the clutch adjment was all sorts of wrong. There should be a thread on here somewhere from not so long ago, Paul helped me with that. Essentially after replacing a very worn clutch pivot I figured out the play at the pedal had been achieved by having slack in the cable. There shouldn’t be with correctly adjusted clutch pedal height etc. Once that was done I could adjust the gap J and 5 & 6 in the above diagram properly. A newish clutch you would expect the threaded rod to be would in towards the engine. As the clutch wears you adjust it out towards the steering rack. Servicing the Godess on YouTube has a good video on it.

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