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Looking good Peter, Bon Courage!
Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback. Looking at RAL 7044 it definitely doesn’t have a pink tinge to it, must be a close match for AC 140 Gris Roue. Mind you, anything will be better than the ‘Rouillier Brun’ that mine are.
I like the idea of pyrolytic cleaning / thermal stripping but logistics might be prohibitive. I’ve got to work on my car in the street so there’a a limit to what I can do myself.
I’m in a similar situation Khalad, but being in Scotland the usual specialists mentioned (Citroen Classics, DS Workshop, Pallas Autos) aren’t very convenient. What I found helpful was just apeaking to other local classic owners and I’ve got a couple of well recommended leads. You don’t need a DS specialist to paint a D, they’re not a dificult car to paint (no door shuts to worry about etc) but whatever the car, prep is the key to a good finish. This is what your paying for and I’d be surprised you’d get a good job for £4k. Take a panel that needs no repair work: back to bare metal, epoxy, fill and sand, primer, fill and sand again, primer again, colour coat (probably two or three), clear coat (porbably two), polish. Easily 8-10 hours work, so say £600 a panel, x 12 panels = £7,200. Add in dismouting the panels, stripping them down, fitting them back up, remouting them, alignment etc. and you’re soon into five figure territory. Have a look at Painting Classic Cars on YouTube for an idea of what’s involved (I might even consider sending my panels to them).
For what it’s worth my approach is going to be to get a local fabricator to do the repairs (a few 10p sized patches, lower door skins etc.) then dismount and strip the panels myself, hand them over for painting, and fit up and remount them myself to try and keep costs down.
For future reference Car Builder will make up hoses, at least if you’ve bought one of their AC kits.
Thansk Peter, I’m not rebuilding the mount myself as I don’t have the facilities. All my work on the car is done on the street so got an already rebuilt one.
Thanks Paul, that’s much apprecited. I’d not seen that diagram before. I’ll go for 96mm. I’ve also read that som mechanics at the time just set them to max height ot get the most life out of them!
I know I’m late to the party but when I got my RHD manual D Super the clutch adjment was all sorts of wrong. There should be a thread on here somewhere from not so long ago, Paul helped me with that. Essentially after replacing a very worn clutch pivot I figured out the play at the pedal had been achieved by having slack in the cable. There shouldn’t be with correctly adjusted clutch pedal height etc. Once that was done I could adjust the gap J and 5 & 6 in the above diagram properly. A newish clutch you would expect the threaded rod to be would in towards the engine. As the clutch wears you adjust it out towards the steering rack. Servicing the Godess on YouTube has a good video on it.
My lowly D Super doesn’t have the ashtray light or the heater control lights, but they’re something I want to add. Having looked into it I’m sure the ahstray light just screws onto the bulkhead, through the insulation, directly behind the ashtray. You might find witness marks that show you where it goes exactly.
I’m very much enjoying reading about your progress Peter. A friend and I spent eight hours fitting an exhaust to my D last weekend, which was about twice as long as I thought it would take, c’est la vie! My tuppence worth is Bilt Hamber before the loom, so you can be sure it’s going where it needs to without a loom in the way? I can’t see that the loom would benefit from it and I’m not sure what’s in it to be confident it wouldn’t turn your loom icky over time.
Thanks Paul, that sounds logical to me, I’ll need to go and have a fettle once it gets above freezing!
Ian
Mighty impressed with your work there.
I took another look at my filter the other day and it just sits right in the bottom half of the filter, the rubber lip making a tight seal all the way around, no way for air to get past it. The rubber gasket just seals the top and bottom parts of the filter housing together, it doesn’t need stretching round the filter element.
I used a paper element as I didn’t have any petrol to clean the original one and as I don’t have a garage I don’t think my wife would appreciate me cleaning and oiling a filter in the kitchen sink. A lot of messy faff IMHO. I suspect the paper ones flow and filter better as well, although I’m sure the industry switch to disposable filters was motivated most by service times and being able to flog filters.
Castrol RR363, or whoever makes it now, seems to be the accepted alternative to LHS (LHS Substitute), you can get it cheaper in the UK as it’s used on some Rolls Royces etc. (Flying Spares RR363). My car is LHM so I’ve no personal experiecne of this. From what I understand properly converting from LHS to LHM isn’t worth the time/cost unless you’re doing a full nut and bolt rebuild anyway.
I’m an infomration scientist by profession and don’t do Facebook for the above reasons, plus several others. I have been tempted to join against my better jusdgement for the Citroen community on there but have resisted the temptation so far… Anyway, fingers crossed someone has a couple gathering dust in their garage.
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