[Ian Anderson]

Hi Paul,

Since I got my head round the adjustment (winding the adjuster out towards the rack) the clutch has been fine. Correct play at the pedal (about an inch), consistent biting point. I’m guessing my clutch is about 50% worn. I feel I might have a bit of slip at high speed and load but nothing to warrant further tinkering. Having said that I only put a thousand or so miles on it before it went off the road back in April for bodywork.

I hadn’t heard of the ‘reverse crunch’ method – sometimes mine does, sometimes it doesn’t. I understand the logic of a washer behind the fork, but I’m curious as to why there’s a whole 10mm difference in the pushrod on an efi car? Was there some change in the clutch mechanism only on efi cars? Or only efi BVH cars? I know Citroen did some odd (and sometimes undocumented) changes but if they wanted to improve the range of clutch adjustment you would have thought it would have applied to all models. Did efi cars have a different / thicker clutch plate to handle the massive power?! I guess there’s no harm in trying the longer rod, but as you say I can imagine it being ground down to the point where is gives you a few extra mm of adjustment rather than 10.

BTW, I saw the pics of your car on groups.io and it looks great. You must be delighted to have it back on the road after all that time and hard work. I remember reading your blogs years before I bought mine and it was quite the inspiration. I have nowhere near your level of technical knowledge and skill but it gave me confidence that I could run one without needing a mechanic round the corner!

[Ian Anderson]

Lots of good advice here. I agree that a D Super 5 seems to be regarded as the ‘sweet spot’, or an earlier D Super with the optional 5 speed box.

In regards to ‘Pallasisation’ I thought it was only Pallas spec cars that had the large aluminium heat shield on the engine side of the firewall? If so, that would be major ‘tell’ as it would be an engine out job to fit I think.

Incidentally, my 1970 D Super (Dec 69 build) has the DY 2 / 17N engine as per above. Built before the 5 speed became an optional extra, which was mid 1970 year I think, and as said it was a close ratio ‘mountain’ gearbox. It’s specced almost identically to the DS 20 BVM, bar the extra brake accumulator, vinyl seats (cloth was an option), turning but not self levelling lights (this was an option) and the inner lamps are high beam not driving lights (again I think this was an option), and gold chevrons on the boot of course. Perhaps because it was an export model (originally an NZ car).

[Ian Anderson]

My heart bleeds for you all. Power tools? Welders? Compressors? My garage is the street. So in theory all the space to manoeuvre about you could want. In reality… well you can imagine.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul, very informative. Leaving them unpainted seems to be asking for trouble. I know Citroen had a none exitant approach to body protection, but even by their standards this seems cavalier!

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Peter, mine are going to sitting in a bath of Deox-C, then epoxy, primer and coach enamel. Haven’t decided what to spray over it afterwards.

[Ian Anderson]

Looks like the voltage regulator. If you’ve got an upgraded alternator which has internal regulation, you might not need it, but I’m not up on my electrickery.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Paul and Peter, I’m not too fussed about the boot light right now, useless anyway. That whole rear light loom is dodgy as my interior lights have come on all of twice when I open the doors. Suspect the problem is behind the dash though, so I’m ignoring it!

[Ian Anderson]

Paul Burridge wrote:

Hi. It’s pretty much as Peter said. The full Citroen instructions are at operation D-142-0 in volume 1 of manual 814. it’s fairly near the front of the book – just before the pages on carburettors.

it’s just one page – but helpful.

Thanks Paul, my D-142-0 in 814 doesn’t have that, just on how to measure and adjust the springs on the throttle control rod.

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks Peter. That makes sense. I suspect it had been adjusted prior to my ownership to compensate for collapsed engine mounts.

[Ian Anderson]

I don’t think so. I’m sure I read it in the owners manual.

[Ian Anderson]

Peter Bremner wrote:

Today was the most hateful job there is, on any car. Fitting the exhaust.
Lying on my back trying to get the flexible to fit over the manifold. Files, sanding drums and emery cloth. Same at the silencer end. Finally, a good fit, then a smear of exhaust paste.
I haven’t used the standard U clamps, instead the Mikalor exhaust clamps.
I also haven’t bothered with the extra support from the block.
Getting the two pipes onto the silencer was particularly fraught. Exhaust paste everywhere, grit in my eyes and my ear started itching!
All done in the end.

Drive shafts next. Then fit one wheel and set the tappets.
At this rate I may have to start the engine!

I feel your pain. Flexi into the main silencer was incredibly tight. I used Mikalor clamps but the they weren’t strong enough to clamp stainless, started to bend and one of the bolts actually snapped. Tried a different brand of clamps, same result, so back to ugly U clamps. I now know why the previous owner welded up the joints on the old exhaust…

[Ian Anderson]

Impressive work Peter. I’m about to have my allet drained by some welding work, so the car’s still firmly in the looking worse before it gets better stage.

[Ian Anderson]

I thought my bootlight wasn’t working, then realised it was only supposed to come on with the headlights on. Which kind of makes sense, but also deoesn’t, in that Citroen way.

[Ian Anderson]

It took me three attempts to get my exhaust to seal up, using silicone exhaust paste helped (I used Wurth Silicone Special 180). Although I can’t detect any leaks I’m still not convinced it’s as quiet as it should be…

[Ian Anderson]

Looking good Peter, Bon Courage!

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