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… can a RHD box be swapped over to LHS? There is an RHD box on flea bay just now.
Our rally so far: Wilts, Stafford, Knutsford, Preston, Lancaster, Shap, Annan, Beattock, Lanark and finally Glasgow. Motorways avoided unless a useful bypass so some of the UK’s finest quiet A/B roads and time to take in the views, especially 2/3 gear climbs. So far no traumas apart from a failed flasher relay (replaced) and some water drops. Let’s hope we get back next week…..
Removal
Take plenty of pictures of the removal stages – (my memory doesn’t cut it anymore) and keep all old bits removed for reference.Remove the bonnet – 4 bolts hinges- to body – preserves the bonnet alignment
Remove wipers and protect engine and wiper bosses –I used a piece of carpet over wings, engine and scuttle.Screen is held at the base by a metal strip and rubber seal – 3 bolts and two screwed clips at the ends. Note the position of the rubber strip wrt the wipers – if renewed, the replacement rubber will require trimming to length to fit snugly at the ends. Undo all these fixings and the screen can be pulled down and out from the body channel. Remove rear view mirror for re-use.
There should be a rubber strip fixed in the gap between dash and scuttle on which the back of the screen sits- best to remove this, clean it and clean the body channel and scuttle of rust and old sealant; treat/paint as required. The rubber strip can be re-fixed in the gap between dash and scuttle with a little flexible sealant between it and the scuttle (e.g., Sikaflex non-setting sealant).
Replacement
Examine the screen channel rubber and note how it sits over the sides of the channel with the glass slot inside.
Put the window rubber on the (new) screen – if new it will be longer than the screen – don’t trim yet.Offer up the screen/rubber to the vertical body channels without attempting to locate at the top and tease the rubber over the edges of the body channel. Then work the screen and rubber up the body, teasing the rubber over the sides of the channel inside and out – to the top. You may find that at the top it works best to push the rubber fully into the channel leaving the screen still and then pushing the screen up into the rubber. We did think of lubricating the rubber but decided it would be more trouble than help. 4 or 6 hands help here.
We levered the screen fully home – carefully with plastic blocks against the fixing bolts put back temporarily until we were satisfied that the body and seal placement at the top looked OK.
Putting the two side bolts/brackets back in place with a bit of protective rubber allowed us to judge that the screen was fully home with a gap for the bottom rubber and metal strips.
Then the excellent mastic strip from Citroen Classics was pushed in between the back of the screen and the scuttle and left flush with the base of the screen. Doubling up and pushing fully home at the edges sealed the wider gap at the ends. This sealing is essential to avoid a shower inside in heavy rain (or don’t use DS in rain…).
Then the excess screen rubber channel was trimmed to about 2cm below the screen.
Then the rubber and metal strip was pushed into place – one end trimmed and pushed flush with the windscreen rubber. Working along to the other end with bolts holding in place, the other end was judged to length – plus about 5mm, cut and pushed home; the extra length making a good seal.
All bolts and end clips then pushed home and tightened and all checked for good positioning.You may find that you can then push the mastic to seat it better under the rubber/metal strip though no additional sealer should be required.
Putting the wiper arms back is the trickiest, but helped by inserting a screwdriver inside over the spring and levering the hinge to allow the arm block to be pushed onto the wiper boss and then adjusted for height and angle and then nipped up.At the time of writing the bonnet is not yet back on as I have a few jobs that are easier with the bonnet off.
I hope you find this useful.27th July 2021 at 7:13 pm in reply to: Inside every small job, is a big job waiting to get out….. #7165Paul, it should beeither M7 fine (.75) or coarse (1.0). Odd M much loved by FR & IT. I would be surprised if it is 0.8. Send it to our Pewsey workshop and we will look at it.
25th July 2021 at 1:09 pm in reply to: Inside every small job, is a big job waiting to get out….. #7152Send me the fitting and we will re-make it but 10mm or so longer to screw on the LHS . What is the thread? M8?
Bonnet is off and all screen fixings thankfully turning with ease. I will share info in English for non Dutch speakers😙
25th July 2021 at 12:09 pm in reply to: Inside every small job, is a big job waiting to get out….. #7148… or make a threaded tube to braze to the rhs which can screw onto the cleaned up lhs? There might just be enough thread on the rhs to screw both in the tube together?
The evidence – softer going right.
Darrin has the part – hidden in plain sight in the engine section M023G so ordered one now (plus a few more bits – scope creep!)Ta, I would far rather make a few if someone can provide the dimensions.
Editing has garbled this. Mourn -> our. Delete Citröen specialist and if anyone can give me dims of the missing bearing cap, or lend me one then I will make a few for others via Darrin.
20th July 2021 at 8:17 am in reply to: Q2 is it possible to replace big end shells – engine in? #7113Gear oil done as part of transmission rubbers change and other front stuff. Made little difference to whine which goes on overrun. Nothing nasty came out though.
Just very busy as they are moving parts of their space. I have ordered bits from Matthew and will collect tomorrow so M & D are about – often past 18:00.
Marechal – logo was/is a black cat with yellow eyes.
Thanks Paul. I am waiting for a reply from D. Talking to Matthew when looking for rods before I reground mine, he said that saloon and estate were Essentially the same (estate pic looks to have changed since I last looked there).
Seen the DE items. Q is whether we can make them for less than that, given hardening and grinding will be costly unless jigged for many.
We have a towing bar stuck on the back of our D Spécial which is doing nothing (the bar that is).
I could be persuaded to whip it off at some point – just bolted to several points on the floor area.
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