Jeremy Ashton

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 86 total)
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  • in reply to: Rear suspension arm pivot bearings spanner #9049

    Thanks Peter and Colin,

    I will check our big stepped rings but I think that they only go up to 28mm but cheap enough to buy.

    Prefer (or my nuckles) not to use a nut f**ker aka clef anglais! Saw chocolate ones on sale in the Christmas market in Lille last year – no purchase made.

    in reply to: Front Ball Joints Removal Tools #9031

    Pulled out- yes by cracking the inner bearing cup under the castellated ring thus allowing the ball to escape.

    The pics above look as though the castellated ring escaped the staking and started to unscrew and with a few threads holding it at the outer edge and then mullered the threads.

    Should be able to recover by cleaning the threads with a thread file or removing damage with a dremel grinder and checking the thread with the new ring – making sure that the ring is always square to start the thread correctly.

    Other options: I believe a DS tools tap is available to clean the thread or if the old ring has some decent thread on it then grind some slots across the old good thread and use this to clean up the hub.

    in reply to: Front Ball Joints Removal Tools #9029

    For the amusement of the group, here are some pics of the stripped out front before we replaced several panels and refurbed the wings. Eldest grandson bolting up the freshly powder coated radiator parts. Car still bodily rough in parts but my daily driver in London now fron Wilts as we wrestle granddaughters:
    F58-DFD2-C-82-BF-4318-BFAB-A5-A7-FFAC1142
    8340-ED9-E-87-D3-45-D2-B711-0-CDE9-E9-B01-EA
    7-D478321-3279-46-E7-A389-66-D69884-D16-A

    in reply to: Front Ball Joints Removal Tools #9028

    I can see how an old bottom joint could break free. The joints are a taper and ball where the ball is held by an inner cup sitting in the hub and an outer ring held by the screwed and staked outer ring.

    In both our lower bearings the outer rings were in several pieces and I expect that sooner or later the pieces would allow the ball to escape from the retaining ring. Our troublesome top ball exited the retaining ring after my colleague attacked it too vigorously with the fork.

    Here is the rescued top ring with welded rod which, like all the other retaining rings required 3ft of extension to unscrew:
    CB83-C400-C4-EB-4386-BA7-F-AFEC2-FFF41-A7

    The bottom inner cup in the hub also defied conventional extraction so a welded stud pulled it out:
    AF506130-E360-4-A74-A11-B-3290860-B2-A19

    The old staking was cleaned up with a dremel and threads checked before screwing in and re-staking the new items from Cit Classics – grease check before putting on the covers. Swivels looked to be new style quality items and sure to last my use of the DS.

    …. and the end result:
    307-F1-F3-F-92-BB-42-FB-8398-D05471-D59-A02

    in reply to: Keeping A DS Outside #9027

    Car covers can abrade the paint if there’s wind to move it. The lined ones are less damaging but I do not know if they are only goods as indoor dust covers.

    Beware of mice too if stood for a while.

    in reply to: Front Ball Joints Removal Tools #9024

    Cautionary tale:

    Right side hub removed fairly easily using a fork on top and bottom swivel pins.
    Left side more of an issue though. Regular ball splitter and fork – no effect so left it to go on hols for a week. Returning my colleague had attacked the top swivel and had managed to crack the top ball free out of the socket. Heat/fork/puller no effect on the pin in the top arm.

    Bought a large commercial ball cracker (Scania, Merc etc) and with this top and bottom joints offered no resistance after 1/8 of a turn! Right tool for the job.

    3 undamaged joints un-staked and removed withs tools above and new items fitted and re-staked just fine. Lower seat of top ball requires a puller – a bit of suitably threaded rod, plate and nut and it pulled out.

    The damaged top ball joint could not be undone as the tool requires the ball and taper to be intact to clamp the tool. So unstaked and welded a rod across the top. With pipe extension managed to remove. The top lower cup proved impossible to extract as before so again a bar and studding welded across it and it eventually yielded and popped out. Replacement with the modern type then straightforward. I have pics somewhere that I might post.

    in reply to: Ball Joint Separators? #8975

    Pickle fork and lump hammer worked. Found fork in old toolbox – last used in the ‘90’s on similar parts on our Citroen CX’s. First side done with new swivels and drive shaft.

    in reply to: 90s Bank TV advert with a Citroen DS in it #8645

    A fleeting glimpse of a DS as an ambassador arrives for the premier of the show in The Producers.

    in reply to: mystery parts – identification? #8601

    The two parts on the left are similar to part 10 in the diagram fitted under 9 as spacers in ours. No guarantee that this is correct though.

    in reply to: Camshaft repair DS23EFI #8402

    Newman Cams have done good cam and follower work for me.

    in reply to: LHD DS Starting Handle #8314

    Well yes, but it did give me heartburn when reassembling the front end! I thought that after rebuilding the front body and seeing the misalignment that the gearbox was off – but how could it be? Then I noticed that the bracket in the cross member was angled towards the offset box, so this was a design ‘feature’ like access to no4 plug.

    in reply to: LHD DS Starting Handle #8312

    img-9221

    in reply to: 4 Speed LHD Gearbox – Repair or Spares #7980

    Morning Charles, I replaced like with like to keep it simple using a lucky available spare. I think that the replacement 4speed box came free as a result of a 4 to 5 speed conversion.

    in reply to: Classic Insurance #7397

    Adrian Flux £97 fully comp for 3k miles pa. this wasn’t the broker I found before but the price is the same.

    in reply to: Fuel for DS23 (not fuel injection) #7396

    I ran our ‘75 DS on 95 a while ago and it did knock a little under load. Since switching to 98/super this has stopped. Also E10 is to be avoided because of the usual issues with ethanol in fuels

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 86 total)