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Thanks for the suggestions. It will be a bit cheaper for me to get my existing wheels sandblasted and painted (ceramic) rather than buying the ones on eBay. I will go for RAL7044 as Peter suggests.
Thanks to your advice I have successfully removed the wheels and they are with the ceramic shop.
I have two 180HR15 XAS tyres already so will need to buy three more. Where is the best place to buy these? Longstone?
The bloke who removed my existing tyres today asked why I need inner tubes. I could not respond. Is there a reason? One of my wheels, in fact, did not have an inner tube! What is all that about?! The tyre man said that if I get a puncture with an inner tube it will deflate immediately. But If I get a puncture in a tyre without an inner tube it might deflate slowly.
After a long drab, winter with no work on the car I am now getting my wheels sandblasted and repainted.
1 Removing the wheels – Does anyone have a picture of the jacking points? I have never put the car on axle stands before. Do you loosen wheel nuts, raise to the high position and put stands under the appropriate places at all four corners? I will need to leave the car like this for a couple of weeks.
2 Paint – I am going for AC140 – but the painter has asked me for a RAL code. Peter Bremner used RAL7044. Is this the same? Also, the painter is going to use Enamel paint. Is this OK?
I bought one of these. https://www.coveryourcar.co.uk/store/product.php?productid=16724&cat=641&page=1
Thanks all for your comments. I might be tempted to go back to the original Grey AC140. It looks good to me and is the original colour.
I have just seen this Wheel Colours. Is this telling me that all IDs/DSupers were Gris Rosé?
Thanks for doing the research Paul. A few clues there on why the reaction on the roof. I am happier that it is back to the all Bleu Platiné look.
Thanks Paul. I found a paint shop recommended by an independent Citroen garage. He has many years experience of repainting fire glass roofs. He has started working on it already and says it will come up fine, though it will take a while. He has already prepped the roof and metal; underneath the seal (the metal had a little bit of rust but not bad at all; I never had problems with the cant rail water, etc.). After looking into the facts around the original paint job and going on your advise I have gone for a Bleu Platine roof as well as the body. That got me looking at the wheels and wheel trims which, according to what I have read, are not the originals. I will set up another topic to ask questions about those!
You are right Paul, I have documentation that shows that the car was first on the road 28 Jan 1971, and the number in the engine bay suggests that it was one of the very first “1971” D Supers even though it was built Autumn 1970. I am happy with the Gris Rose roof and I have enough evidence to suggest that it could have been the original colour, and it also matches the headlight housing.
Going back to the the sealant, should I paint the Sikaflex sealant the same colour as the roof, or would the sealant have originally been applied after the roof was painted. If the latter, what would the colour of the sealant been? You say that you do not have the same roof as me, so maybe you do not know.
Thanks for you invaluable help.
Thanks Paul. On the issue of the original colour of the roof of a D Super built in 1970 like mine, in the Original Citroen by Reynolds and de Lange on page 138 they say, “For the 1970 model only with the introduction of the DSpecial and DSuper, the former always had a Blanc Cygne roof while the latter had a limited number of matching or contrasting colours.” I assumed that my contrasting colour has always been Gris Rose. Is there a way of finding out? In the engine bay is only the one paint tag with the code AC632 for Bleu Platine. In cars with contrasting roofs would one normally expect to see a code for the roof too? The plastic housings for the headlights are also Gris Rose. Also, after removing the front wings a few months ago I noticed that someone had written “Gris Rose” on part of the wing that is normally not seen.
Thanks Justin/Peter. I have made some progress in identifying experienced and competent paint shops. What brand of mastic should I buy. Is there a recommended make? Also is it de rigeur to use black or do people use other colours? My roof is Gris Rosé AC136; the old mastic is black. The main body of the car is Bleu Platiné.
Thanks Peter. That’s the great thing thing about Ds, nothing is straightforward and there is always something to spend lots of cash on! You’ve convinced me on not going for the vinyl roof. I have spoken to a garage that does TVRs, etc. and will take it to them next week, just for an opinion. My roof does not seem to have cracks but does have little measles, for want of a better word. If the quote is too high I do not think that I will do it, as when I bought the car I did not notice it and the roof does not leak; cant rail is dry. Though the seal around the edge could do with replacing as it does not look very neat. Thanks again for sharing your expertise. Steve
I sorted out the foam for the back seat. I bought 40H blue High Density foam. I bought trim board and used the old board as a stencil. I was about to order the hog ring tool, but found someone with that tool who helped me do it. All done now and it does feel comfortable. Good for another 50 years. Thanks for the tips Paul and Peter.
Thanks Paul. Just out at the moment. I have been away for a few days but get back tonight, so will have look then. Hopefully there will still be places left by the time I respond. Thanks for thinking of me. Steve
Thanks Peter. To get the seized bolts off the heat shield would you recommend any treatment (heat, lubricant)?
Also, I have had the car 15 months. In that time it has always started first time… until the other day when the starter motor did not engage until I rocked the car when in gear. Would you recommend a new one at the same time as replacing the engine mounts? Does the exhaust manifold have to come off too when fitting a new starter motor?
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