[Simon Lewthwaite]

Absolutely – too steep but it was the only angle I could get the drill in. A longer drill would have worked but 250mm that would deal with metal and only 7mm diameter was all I could find. I do love these Bosch construction drills though – most materials in a single drill.
I plan to open out the hole towards the front of the car with a drill file to reach the correct position. This should then allow a shallow approach by the tube. Hopefully this wont be too far, then the whole thing can be covered by the new metal plate, after a good dose of sealant.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

OK, entire system now ordered, including tubes forward. Obviously its currently only the tubes I will be able to install presumably.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

You are right.
Lots of movement under tension = wear. This needs to last another 50 years….
Guess the car deserves the proper stuff.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Peter,

I’ve investigated oud found this within the box section, not connected to anything.

With the longest metal drill I could find (250mm) managed to reach metal, albeit at a rather steep angle

And exited roughly where I expected

I can now open this hole forwards towards the front of the box section and could also open the inner hole downwards for a better ‘cable run’
Spoke to Darrin who says they use the 6.35mm hydraulic pipe for the tubes. At £12 per metre, its not cheap.
Any reason I couldn’t use standard 3/16 cupronickel brake line as I have plenty of that(3/16)? Or just 1/4 C-N as its much cheaper?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Fantastic. Thanks Paul,

I think the exit has been plated over. Very little of the rear floor looks like the image. Cant imaging what might be hiding but its sound from the outside and the inside, so it is what it is.
Planning to try and find the original hole from inside the box section using a borescope. I may then be able to use a long drill to recreate in the new plate.
I can then open up for the new tube and make a new cover plate as was original.

Seems like a lot of effort for something that clearly people can manage without but it also seems a shame not to try and restore this feature since my lights are meant to have it. A cable tie just doesn’t seem quite right does it?

Thanks for giving me the confidence to push on.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Brilliant as ever, Paul!

So I’m missing the little cover because there is no little hole anymore but should be easy enough to fabricate. Just need to triangulate the position.
I can also jus about see inside the box section from the hole where the cable goes in so may be able to ‘re-bore’ that way.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Hi,
So, the tube to the rear is cut out. The securing brackets are still there though.
The finger on the ARB also still has the wire attached, so its been cut out.

The floor of the car has had lots of welding by the look of it and I cannot see where the tube will have originally exited the inside to outside. It looks like it goes under the fuel tank.

So……can I recreate the exit point safely without removing the fuel tank?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thats really helpful Paul,

July looking unlikely unless it all starts coming together soon.
Those were the kind of images I was after, thanks for your time!

Peter – mine seem ‘stuck’ probably rusted in. I’ll investigate further over the weekend though.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Paul,

I have the rear to front tubes, cables within and cable-tied together.
The lights themselves were cable tied to the mounts to ‘fix’ them so I’m quite confident the car was produced with the system.
So, maybe it was disabled?
I’ll have to check the rear mechanism is working – I guess that just means bringing the suspension up and someone leaning on the back and see if the cables move.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Hi,
I have done my front bumpers and its well worth the effort.

I once bought a polishing kit from Frost auto that came with several sisal pads, abrasive compounds.
These were designed for use on a bench grinder. Even so, its easy for the parts to ‘catch’ as you go. Think a drill would be bad for this.

Just expect it to take a while.
Si

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Had nearly exactly the same issue, prob same fuse.
I replaced them all but issue not solved.
This is because the new fuse was useless. End caps loose.

Lesson – never ever buy anything important from Halfords.
Lesson learned.

Si

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Ah, I see what you mean. None of the fixings are exposed in my car, even with the seals removed. Looks deep within the bulkhead area and not engine bay side.
Sorry

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I have a 1973 DS23 EFi, no Aircon.
My wings and bonnet are off at the moment and the air ducts out but not the blower unit.
Happy to take pictures if it would help?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Just completed this.
As said, mount was good and is now treated, protected and painted.
Same with the top tray.
Cant imagine doing this with the wing in situ however.
Replaced the battery whilst I was at it as the old one seemed, well…old.
Hopefully, the panels will start to come in soon and I’ll need some more help and advice.
Simon

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks guys.

Darrin has found a sound mount that needs clean-up and paint but no repair.
All my panels are off at the moment so hoping its straightforward…….

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