how far might you need to drive it?
Interesting. The green item to the rear of the distributor cap presumably also part of same mechanism.
You must be very happy in how its progressing.
Hi John,
I’ll be in the same position soon I hope when my wings return to me. I’m also a little unsure about the headlight assembly and sealing procedure so a detailed account of how you do that would be great.
As Michael Scott said (US Office) “Explain it to me as if I was a 7 year old”
And following the explanation, “OK, now explain it to me as if I was a 6 year old”
Looks amazing Paul.
What is the green object above the main hydraulic pump? Connected with a belt?
Thanks Peter. No, they are being done professionally.
I’ll check with them re above. Dinitrol it will be. (I do have a full tin of original Waxoyl plus a new one but dont want to mix and match so will confine them to the shelf)
I’ll probably save the write up for when the doors are repainted so images make more sense.
In terms of rust protection, I guess this would need to be after paint, after sound deadening application but before everything else. I’ve never used waxoyl or similar but I’m betting its messy?
You are right of course Peter. I would much rather have repaired my ?original? doors and that was my original plan, but they were rusted through at the bottom and at the top on the inside and needed new skins. So parts alone would be £300-400. With a complete new door at 650 plus VAT, once labour has been factored in, as a financial deal, the complete new door makes sense, but only, as you say, if it fits! Which it seems to.
All will be revealed of course when all the panels are back and on!
I got my doors from CitroenClassics. First 2 got damaged slightly in transit and Darrin couldn’t have been more helpful. So far, I’m impressed with what I have.
I’m thinking of posting a thread about rebuilding a door as the processes are critical in terms of order and the more things come on and off, the more scratches appear. Parts diagrams are not totally clear. If it would be helpful.
Thats interesting. So far, every hole is in the right place, just some not present – eg for the top, middle and bottom inner finishing strips.
Since the original doors were highly prone to rusting through at the bottom, what could I do to help prevent this? There are drainage holes in my new door (unsure if originals had these) but should I also rust protect once the final paint is on? Eg wax oil the inner bottom of the inside or something else? I’ll be sound deadening the inner side of the skin too, bitumen based I guess?
Completely new door, made from scratch. It works out better than the amount of labour and material to rebuild my old ones! We’ll see.
Just checked my other new door – it does have a hole in the position shown and described by Paul but only through the inner metal, not all through. This is my driver’s door (LHD). Interesting but at least gives a guide for the other door now.
Infact, look at this one totally different position and looks lke a different style of mirror stalk.
This is from the frenchclassics site – the cars for sale or sold have some fantastic images that are very useful for reference.
Good idea Paul – I’ll get researching!
And having looked at my mirrors, I have one of each size but neither look great – chrome at 80% and trim cracked.
Ah well – another £100 or so to spend! Still, makes sense with a nice new paint job not to detract from it.
Hi,
Yes, doors hung and seem good so far – seem well made and accurate – windows lined up with no adjustment from my old doors.
Interesting about the smaller Mirrors – I’ll investigate.
Thanks Paul,
Having assembled as I think it should be, the throttle body seems secure yet with a little flexibility, which is what I think was intended so unless more info comes in, thats that. Its not difficult to get to in any case.
Indeed it was – just found it on Frost website which outlines the whole process quite nicely.
Frost Wrinkle paint
