[Simon Lewthwaite]

This still frustrates me.
Why cant the bleed screw have easier access without dismantling the whole front?
It occurred to me that my car has the holes used for the hand crank to the front of the gear box, and includes the long rod, even though the engine cant be cranked.
Since the Main accumuluator, and bleed screw are attached on the front of the box, couldnt this access be used?

So, cars where the hand crank can be used, presumably, this passes through the radiator duct? Are there banking plugs or just accept a few holes are ok?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

So it all went well in the end. Hard to photograph a black lining of a black boot in the dark, but here goes!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I did change to LEDs but as Peter suggested, some adaptation of the hooped wires are needed.
Plus, some of the filters needed changing. Its a while ago now, but for the blue filters, I found the plastic from a ?DVD or Playstation case – just the right amount of filterage.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

So here is the edging.
It all went OK but I really needed a ‘walking foot’ attachment to prevent the binding curling the carpet due to length inequalities. Since it will be stuck down, in the main, this is no real issue but I will be investing since I need to re-do the Lotus boot too.
The binding uses a hidden stitch method which is far neater and easier than just sewing the folded over webbing. It also permits far neater corners.
Glue in day likely tuesday…

[Simon Lewthwaite]

So this is what I have gone with.
Black deep pile carpet from Coverdale – they also made my interior set but I bought a roll of their Blenheim black which is rubber backed. Although ‘deep pile’ its actually not that deep and gives a nice feel.
I bought 2m x 1.5m (comes on a 1.5m wide roll) which is enough for the set with some left over for an error or if the rear transom were to be covered. cost was £64. If ordered via Amazon, no delivery charge. Arrived next day, despite estimate of next week. Remember this is a family business and I cant recommend them enough.
I made cardboard templates for the sides but the ARB cover and floor can just be measured.
I bought some closed cell foam sheet for the floor and ARB cover – 5mm Plastozote which is a nitrogen expanded foam resistant to most things and wont absorb water. Bought far too much of this. 2x1m (£20) would have been enough. From EFoam.

Job tomorrow is to bind the edges that will be exposed with some black cotton herringbone webbing. I’ll share how that turns out!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Yeah, I suppose so.
I currently have no lining so will be paying for something, just thought that something could be better than the one provided originally.

I made boot lining for my Lotus using ‘OEM’ material which is that black thin ribbed stuff. Dead easy to sew together but very thin and not really befitting.

Just had a look on Woolies and maybe their rubber backed carpet would work. It has a short pile by the looks of it. Rubber backing wont absorb water and if I avoid wool in the mix, its less likely to rot. Not sure how easy it would be to sew together for a fitted look but I could just make panels.

The sides of the boot are compound curves towards the rear – were these originally covered?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Paul, as usual hits all the nails on the head. One of by cards had warped beyond usefulness. I restored it myself using hardboard, coated on the ‘sponge’ side.

Trouble is, there was barely enough leather used originally and even less after some rot.
I used a selection of staples of varying depth to attach, successfully the leather back on but its a job and a half. I used no glue.

It will be OK. The other cards are not warped but clearly have been since Paul’s ‘additional’ screws with cup washers have been used. Honestly, I thought they were original until I realised they were only on some of the cards, so they are a good solution.

Clearly, the often absent plastic films to seal the door apertures are needed!

I’m about to start door 3 rebuild, so, as promised months ago, I will document the process, order and pitfalls in a separate thread very soon!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Paul.
Try as I might, I couldnt convincingly reach the screw with the 12mm.
So I removed the cowl. Easy enough since the cross member and headlight mechanics are yet to be fitted but I must practice a non removal relief. At least there was a nice ‘sound’ indicating release!! In the future, it needs a socket wrench with no extension and a very fine ratchet since there is so little space.

The rear gaiter job was a pig. Even though I expected the securing pin to be difficult, the word fails to describe the effort needed. The far end had been bent over and the whole pin was firmly seized in the cup. Both ends broke with the main pin remaining. I was able to drill out enough of the near side (minus 3 drill bits) to separate the cup from the holder (with bearing splitters). Not pretty but everything else survived at least.

I’d love to check the sphere pressure. I am aware of a home made tool to do this but neither have the extension tube nor the welding skills required. Sphere(welded) marked 2009. Likely low on pressure.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Ha ha, I hope you weren’t up all night thinking about this Paul!!

I’ll play around with the various options a bit more and see.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I think I have partially ‘solved’

Here is item ‘2’ in the diagram

It only really fits one way, giving a nice bevel finish up to the glass. I have tried to draw this here

So, once the chrome (plastic) finisher is on the wing aperture, this black foam seal (2) can be applied around it, presumably keeping it attached with a light bit of compatible glue. then the lens goes in and is held by the clamps

Then we have item ‘3’ in the diagram, a 1mm thick black foam strip, about 8mm wide, self adhesive.

And then item ’21’ which is a very soft foam that goes around the light pod. Its very soft and as the image shows, compresses away to nearly nothing, again around 8mm wide.

I’m not yet certain the exact fitting of these last 2 but it will no doubt become clear!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I mean the stuff provided by the part sellers – Darrin for one. Its a flattened P shape.
It makes sense that the foam goes between the glass and the metal.
You would have thought the larger end would be at the potentially larger gap. I suspect it matters little which side the bevel sits since it it all compressible.

I have a wing build day planed next week with a friend so I will document as much as I can on wing 2 when we have figured out how it all might work on wing 1!!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Yes, found your photos in another thread https://citroencarclub.org.uk/forums/topic/re-fitting-repainted-headlight-housing-2/

Since the ‘p’ shaped foam between the glass and the wing has no adhesive, how is it encouraged to stay put, whichever way round it goes? Bit of contact adhesive, just until the glass and rods get put in?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

How are you getting on, John?
I ask since I have just collected my newly painted wings and will need to start the rebuild.

You know when you think you have made detailed enough disassembly notes………but…..

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Wow, those are some seriously sensible upgrades. Fantastic!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Paul, so helpful as ever. Sorry its taken me a while to get back here.

Great book, with clear flowcharts to diagnose and sort faults in the efi. I’ll be printing off for safe keeping.
Si

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