[Simon Lewthwaite]

Will do Paul!

Thanks Julian! Good news about the air temp sensor – I wonder if it had trouble because of the other bad sensor. Will go and try it!

I know what you are saying about building a new sensor but there is little to be lost and it might be a nice side project – if I can get the original apart of course.

Anyway, I’m off to run the engine again as I can’t quite believe it (I have been through pretty much everything else I could think of in terms of fuel/air/spark)

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Update. Amazingly, the alternative sensor I ordered yesterday just arrived. Its a Lucas part and has a reading of 2500 Ohms at 20C.
It fits the housing and amazingly even the connector fits, albeit with a bit of a push.
The only issue is that its a 19mm spanner rather than a 13mm so tightening is a little pushed for space but still has clearance

Engine runs sweetly and now responds to subtle idle adjustment!!

So now, I have the original sensor body, have ordered some thermistors and can build an OEM look sensor.
Although its a Lucas part, at £10 its pretty much a service item. How about that!

Lucas SNB1011

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thats fantastic information Julian. Yes, I had looked at Jetronic but not found the details.

I’ll definitely give that a go. Cheap sensor bought, looking at the NTC thermistors. Lots of sites specify the 25C rating. I would guess that 2.2k at 25C should be OK?

I wonder if you also have the ratings/chart for the air temperature sensor? Again, obsolete. I have just run tests on mine and it gives a fairly straight NTC curve with around 250 Ohms at 20C and 350 Ohms at 10C
Part No – 5412360A, 0280130006

[Simon Lewthwaite]

So, it seems I have several options. £50 (possibly dodgy); £100 Sassen, used; £150 from ebay.de, used.

I’ll await responses from facebook contacts. In the meantime, I have also ordered a £10 part that will fit, but with an unknown curve.
When I get an original sensor, I will test and share the curves so any future alternatives can also be tested for suitability. Got to find some positives out of this.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Sassen seems to have a used one for 99E.
I’ll see if I get any joy from your other suggestions though.
I also seem to have found one on a site called spareto but with a 4 week delivery time, I am suspect it may turn out to be another wrong ‘un.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Paul, these are the air temp sensors. They have a coarser thread unfortunately.
The part No I’m looking for is 0280130014

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Thanks Paul, I’ll check with those contacts. Many thanks

And yes, Citroen Classics had no suggestion but to try Brodie. No known alternatives.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Hi Stephen, yes its me from Sainsbury’s. Hopefully my car will be back together in the next week so you might see your car’s ‘doppelganger’ on the roads around Oswestry!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Re the rear cylinder, not sure if you have sorted that yet?
One of mine was in a terrible condition and had to be replaced a couple of months ago. Ordered from CC who initially said they had none but when I enquired about second hand that could be rebuilt, they found one for me.
It might be worth seeing if they have a used one plus the seal kit?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I hear your pain, Adrian.
My car had had the mechanism removed, presumably due to the hassle of getting it working.
I refitted it with a pile of parts from Darrin. New control wires in new tubes as my originals had been either cut or incorporated in a welded floor repair at some point in time.

The self levelling of the vehicle does not keep the lights level – quite the opposite in fact. Acceleration or braking causes the rear of the car to drop, sending the lights up, hence the need.

I think the first point to check is that your outer headlamp units should freely wobble about an oblique axis with the long screw adjusters(11 in the diagram) disconnected. Not by much, perhaps a cm of travel each way.
Part 11 clips into the recess on the top of the lamp unit. One of mine is not an especially positive clip and if I’m rough, easily comes out.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Really helpful guys.
On attempting to drain the tank, one plug is stuck fast as Paul hinted at and the other doesn’t line up with the hole in the floor!
I have siphoned off a fair amount but its still fairly full.
Presumably, if there is a filter at the tank pipe end, it will be clogged too? or is that a coarser filter?
It looks like removing the tank would involve tilting it back so the filler tube can move out – what might be the best way to plug that tube to prevent fuel coming out do you think?
I have peered into the tank via the sender aperture and there is only some minor pitting visible but its whats at the pickup end that worries me.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

You will have to explain the cement mixer – beware, I do have one of those!!

[Simon Lewthwaite]

Mine is Gris Nacre, so pearlescent of the day. It looks different from different angles, so in some ways more forgiving. But also easy to miss a subtle difference.

I’ve got to say, however, even the incorrect touch up paint remains as good as touch up goes! In small areas of course.

[Simon Lewthwaite]

I had this problem with my respray.
Because the panels were completed over lockdown, time separated them. During which, the period colour pigments changed. Only apparent once the panels were refitted side by side. It was a very bad day.
Whole job had to be repeated. Same when I ordered a touch up pot. Doesn’t quite match.

You can, I believe, get the colour scanned?

[Simon Lewthwaite]

OK, so having moved that wire across, I now have a functioning temperature gauge!
On starting the car, the needle slowly rises until it just gets into the red zone and then, presumably as the thermostat opens and the radiator starts its work, settles back into the centre fairly quickly. Sound right? I don’t think mine is an original gauge however.

Of course, it begs the question, where is the wire that should plug into the white F spot? The one I removed from the yellow plug was, in fact, not connected to anything. I guess its not a difficult job to simply run a wire from the thermal switch to the cluster. Or see if there is one making its way…..

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