[David Clark]

Ah I see that now – thanks again Paul. Job for the weekend now I think

[David Clark]

Hi Paul – thanks for the advice. I had tried drifting it out from the bottom but your suggestion gives me more confidence to persevere and belt it a bit harder, perhaps with some heat as well as the penetrating oil. The visible surface through the hole is flat so I’m also wondering whether the ball that should be in there (?) is missing, so allowing the rod to sit too deep in the cup anyway. I’ll update on how I get on.

[David Clark]

Hi Paul – yes you are correct. I did post to say that I’d order some new ones from Darrin, but may have one more go at the jubilee clip/freezer trick before placing the order

[David Clark]

No worries – it’s all very useful and interesting. Still can’t get the bump stop in, so going to have a look at the other side to check that one before ordering purple poly ones from Darrin.

[David Clark]

Thanks for the tip. It’s in the freezer so will have a go at it tomorrow now. Will keep you posted on how I get on.

[David Clark]

Don’t think so as the water level in the rad is about right

[David Clark]

Yes sept68 I think. Shark nose front but still old style painted dash. Confort so not as smart as the Pallas but that’s my baby. Good luck with the resto. The engine looks fantastic so can’t wait to see pics of the car when it’s all done.

Anyway, back to my leak. The plot thickens now, as there was no leaking at all today. Little puddle of water on the garage floor from the other day, but having got it out on the drive for a good look, dry as a bone! Warmed it right up and no sign of any damp at all. The only thing I didn’t try was shutting off the interior heater valve to see if that made any difference. I’ll try that another evening.

[David Clark]

Thanks for the detailed advice and the superb photos (what lovely new looking engine), with the pointers – really helpful. As you may have seen from the previous post, I had discounted the water pump as it’s definitely on the side and dripping onto the exhaust just before the join between the down pipes and the coiled pipe. My worst case scenario was also a cracked block or head but I haven’t had any major work done and can’t think of any other reason for it to crack (unless old age is the culprit of course – the car, not mine!). The location of the final drips suggests the drain plug but they could be running along the lip at the bottom of the block before dripping on the exhaust. I will look more closely where the heater pipe joins the head as that could be where I saw the damp patch with my mirror. Thanks again for the photos, much more helpful than the drawings in my manual and those in the Dropbox manual. I’ll update you both once I’ve had a look.

[David Clark]

Thanks Peter, I had discounted the water pump because the leak appears to be further back. However, you have prompted me to have a closer look at the pump and the housing it fixes to rather than just assume, so thanks for making me think again.

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