[Paul Burridge]

After a lot of slog I think I’ve turned the corner and can see an end in sight. i’ll add some rust killer this afternoon then i can move on to painting this area and the sills.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
Power is going FROM the ignition with TO the VR via that mauve wire. But the power is also going on to other things in parallel – such as the heated rear screen and reversing lights i think. If that wire on the VR was suspect, then the other things would presumably still function?

[Paul Burridge]

have you got a PDF of the manual with wiring diagrams in?? Tony Jackson added diagrams for RHD cars to the standard version of manual 814. If you haven’t got the manuals/ circuit diagrams and think they would help. You can download them FREE from here:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/sh9wavmri1ejtsokag5kl/AFw5jdVQS2d0hllnQxdRnLY?rlkey=bvelxdi33vs3d90y2h442v5vh&e=2

Find the blue ‘814-manual’ folder and download both volumes of 814. Circuit diagrams are about 2/3 of the way through volume 1. You will find some helpful COLOUR-CODED copies of circuit diagrams as added by Tony. You will find several that cover RHD cars from september 1971 onwards. Being a Special’ your car is classed as a ‘DV’ vehicle – so you want the diagram that covers that. (I think you will find them on pdf pages 349 and 351).

[Paul Burridge]

The fuses should still be your prime suspect.I have a scan of an RHD owners handbook from 1972. on the left hand side it shows a block with two fuses next to a block with four fuses.

In the 4 fuse block, there is a 16A fuse with green tagged wires. The owners manual says this controls: interior lights and boot light, warning lights on the dashboard and indicators, cigar lighter, Rear screen demisting element, the air blower and Reversing lights 9if they are fitted). your non-functioning circuits seem to match this green-tagged fuse. If you think that the actual fuse and it’s connections are okay (check again/ try a different fuse) then maybe it’s the wires going into/ out of that fuse.

Most of the things dependent on that fuse are ‘switched’ – they only receive power when the ignition is switched on. the exception is the cigar lighter. It goes through that fuse, but works all the time – not reliant on the ignition switch. Check to see if your cigar lighter works. If it does, it implies the fuse is fine, but that the problem is in your ignition switching unit (could simply be a loose connection on it). If the cigar lighter doesn’t work, then it points to the fuse as the problem. The power TO the fuse is a wire from the battery. Try running a new/ temporary length of wire from the batter to the fuse to see whether power via the normal wire is reaching the fuse or broken at that end.

To check the ignition switch unit: From the fuse, the wire into the ignition switch unit is the black coloured wire. the wire out is the yellow wire. Check those connections and check for continuity if you can.

[Paul Burridge]

Now I look again Simon, I’m increasingly coming round to your theory – especially as you actually have the parts in your hands.

In the other thread I wrote “Part 2 is a moulded, black foam strip, with a kind of blade edge. It fits as per the photo here. I think the idea is that the chrome or plastic trim around the glass hole, nestles in the groove of the rubber.” So I must have been thinking along the same lines back then.

I’m now 16.74% less enthusiastic about when it’s time for me to do this job…..

[Paul Burridge]

Good sleuthing Simon, but are you sure about the fitting of part ‘2’? This photo of mine (also in the other thread linked in an earlier post to this thread i think) seems to show a mark around the perimeter of the glass where the wing/ frame was, but the ‘2’ part seems to be further behind that – not visible once the trim is fitted and the glass is in place.

I will have to see if i have any better photos for us, but i’m not sure i do.

[Paul Burridge]

That would be helpful. Those disassembly photos of mine in the other thread were meant to make it all clear for me but with parts that have been together for 50 years it’s hard to be sure what they were like when first assembled.

[Paul Burridge]

If you mean the ‘P’ profile that Michael Faulks used, it may have been daughter excluder and have had an adhesive side. But I’m not sure that’s what you’re referring to.

I, for one, would really like to get to the bottom of what strips go where and what way round.

[Paul Burridge]

One thing not mentioned above, is that after the trim around the edge, the glass (and it’s various seals) has to be fitted in before the plastic housing for the lights. The glass has it’s own securing points and can sit fixed in the wings independent of the plastic housings.

If the housings have been completely dismantled to clean/ plate parts, then the lights and various adjusters needed to be fitted in the housings before they are fitted.

I’m pretty sure that i have photos from when i took mine apart.

[Paul Burridge]

No trouble Peter. it was nice to repay you for your help and kindness. In both our cases, it’s all part of the rally experience: a bit of a drama/ crisis and a bit of mutual aid. Big thanks to Darrin of Citroen Classics who trusted me enough to let me drive off with a fuel pump, coil and 123 set without paying!

There were some lovely cars at the rally, with saturday being sunny and well-attended.An unexpected closed road and detour caused the convoy run to become scattered but we picked ur way to the planned destination at Ashridge. I think the more overcast skies on Sunday dented attendee numbers but everyone seemed to be having a good time.

I met an American guy with a car almost the same as mine – 1968 but his is manual gear change. He is an established car designer – having designed some big name cars you would know – and his recently bought D is the first car he’s actually owned!

i spent yesterday putting away the bits and pieces i bought- which included a ‘new-old-stock’ set of ‘three finger’ wiper arms. These hug the curve of the DS screen far better than standard wipers. Sassens sell repro copies but the design is a little wrong and they don’t flex and hug as intended. Anyway, although in non-descript packaging, the ones at the rally have the giveaway Bosch rivet logo stamped on them and so are the real deal.

I also bought a pair of suspension spheres with removable dampers. the idea is that the dampers can be removed and repaired if need be. it also means that the shims in the dampers can be changed to give harder and softer ride. that’s the theory anyway. They give a softer ride than the the later sphere anyway as the hole sizes through the damper are different.

Back to the restoration!

[Paul Burridge]

I think there was a PM function but recall that it got removed when the website shifted to a new host or similar.

Groups: Looking in the back of the magazine i see a ‘West Midlands’ group, an ‘East midlands’ group AND a ‘Midlands’ group! There also groups for Wessex (aka South Central?!), South east, South West, ‘West london and Surrey’ and plain old ‘South’. There seems to be a lot of overlap, but also a donut hole in the middle – north of London but south of the Midlands.

[Paul Burridge]

Alan was at the rally this past weekend. he is also the ‘section liaison officer’ for the who club – so you might have thought there be more activity from his own Section/ group. Why not email him using the details in the back of the mag and ask what’s going on? maybe make some suggestions to him?

[Paul Burridge]

Funnily enough, a few of us were talking yesterday about forming a new regional group to fill the donut hole left by other groups. We are thinking it would cater to Beds, Herts and Bucks as a minimum, but haven’t yet looked at how big that donut hole is. (I need to look at the list of existing groups in the magazine). Those of us talking yesterday may try and meet up in July for planning/ sharing ideas, but we are aiming to get some publicity in the Club magazine published end July, about invites to a meeting in mid August. If I may ask – where are you based for example?

Glad the manuals and diagrams were helpful and keep us informed of your progress.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi Bob. Glad you enjoyed the rally. Apologies: did our paths cross? I spoke to so many people and i’m useless with names and faces…. It sounds as though you might have at least crossed paths and gained some technical knowledge from Adie Pease though :).

Anyway, the best thing to do is to down load FREE PDF copies of the official workshop manuals. They are the ones that the Brooklands books are largely based on and they have copious wiring diagrams. One adventurous soon (Tony Jackson) has even edited the PDFs to include colour coded wiring diagrams – so just what you need.

Follow this link here to the site that Tony maintains and download the blue “814-manual” folder.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/sh9wavmri1ejtsokag5kl/AFw5jdVQS2d0hllnQxdRnLY?rlkey=bvelxdi33vs3d90y2h442v5vh&e=2

The wiring diagrams are about 3/4 of the way through volume 1 and there are colour-coded diagrams for the later LHD and RHD cars.

You may need a double-sided laminate: the fuel injection circuit is essentially separate from the rest of the cars wiring so there is a separate diagram just for efi circuitry.

A few years ago, the free DS rally ‘give-away’ to attendees was……an A4 laminated colour copy of the later DS wiring diagram 🙂

[Paul Burridge]

They are indeed part of the light pod set up, but those particular rods are to hold the top edge of the glass in. There is a long one and a short one hidden away under the top surface of the wing. As you can see, the nylon end hooks onto the glass edge and the metal end braces against a little angled bracket on the wing. If you have any missing, one of the DS parts suppliers will probably be able to rustle some up. they might even make repros these days.

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