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Well spotted Justin! How on earth did you turn that up!
Chances are it’s not perfect Geoff, but might be better than yours. At the very least now, you have a spare to experiment with – in terms of filling and casting or filling and scanning etc.
I think you are on the right track. Possible 0 but unlikely0 that someone will have a good condition one laying around. I think you should bite the bullet and start looking for someone to cast you another using yours as the ‘donor’. I had a Victorian window fitting re-cast and it was surprisingly cheap.
Get it done in something that can be easily chromed – like brass. You’d need to fill out any holes or blemishes on yours.
Others ask for these from time to time. get half a dozen cast while you are at it and make your money back. If you do this, leave anyone that buys one from you to make their own arrangements for chroming.That’s the expensive part.
Hi Steve
I have just read in the August 2020 Citroenian that a Technical weekend is being planned! It’s scheduled for 5/ 6 September (all being well).Places are very limited because of COVID social distancing. If you are interested, contact details are on page 5 of the magazine.
Paul
Hi Rob. I’ve read the thread on Facebook.
I can’t see why there should be an airlock. The system is not sealed – it pumps oil up and out of multiple holes- for example to the rocker arm. From there it trickles back into the sump. Some degree of oil pressure should be there almost as soon as the engine is running. Apart from a visual check of oil squirting around up by the valves, the other the way to test for pressure is, of course, fitting a gauge or removing the ‘T’ and re-fitting the sensor as per original.
There is no ‘standard’ way to break an oil pressure switch if you drop it. In it’s natural state, the contacts are closed and the pressure light is on. Oil pressure holds the contacts apart and the light goes off. If you drop it, it might jam open or closed or suffer no damage at all. Plan B is to try a new switch.
Nice colour. Mine is/ will be similar – Gris palladium. Is that air cleaner from an efi car?
Congratulations Justin. And 1975. As you say – must be one of the last made – production/ sales slowed down considerably in the last year. Are you in a position to share any photos here? Were your wife and daughter around when you had your DS in the 90s, or is this their first DS?
Are you having a dig 🙂 Anyway – it’s six years and counting…..and it still won’t be concourse 🙂
Attempting anything on the exhaust manifold is courting disaster. Seized studs, then seized manifold nuts. By then the starter may as well come out and five years later it is concourse.
Good find Peter!How on earth did you manage to look that one up!
Hi ben
A bit obvious but I’m assuming you’ve been back to Darrin? He and the other traders would be keen to help.If Darrin hasn’t got anymore bits, try Jamie at DSWorkshop.Paul
Congratulations Justin. A secondhand jack stand shouldn’t be too hard to find at a good price: either through Leboncoin, one of the usual UK dealers or via one of the Facebook groups.
Paul
We all had to start somewhere Steve – gradually your knowledge and confidence will grow.
I don’t think the D Section has run technical weekends for a couple of years – though there are local regional sections to the Club that have regular meetings and can provide technical advice. or at least opinion!
The annual D rally (which would have been early June this year) would have been a very good substitute for a technical weekend and Adie Pease 9who features in the ‘Goddess youtube videos) can always be found with a spanner under or or other bonnet carrying out a repair or offering advice.
Seat Foam. the original foam was moulded ‘Dunlopillo’ folded and glued to match the frame shape. I think i am right in saying that there is not (yet?) a supplier offering replacement moulded foam for the rear seat upright section. I think the best you (or anyone) will be able to do is to use appropriately cut pieces of flat sheet foam glued together to replicate the shape and depth of the original.
It really depends where you are – as those seat backs are big and heavy. Any local furniture restorer should be able to tackle it. Have you considered doing it yourself?
Hi
My car is a semi-auto, so can’t really advise on your problem beyond what Peter has suggested. If you are new to navigating those ‘814’ PDF manuals, then you’ll find clutch adjustment in volume 1. it’s at operation 314 – “Op. Dm. 314-0”.As a new owner, don’t be afraid to ask questions here or elsewhere. You’ve joined a great Club with a wealth of knowledge and very helpful people.
Paul
Hi
I saw your post on Facebook too. A 1961 car will have a considerable number of differences to a 73 car in terms of mounting points and subtle changes to the chassis itself. And of course those door posts. All of these differences could, in theory, be addressed – and maybe even with pinching some bits off your dead car – but it all takes time and time is cost…..There are people out there that completely restore cars with gaping holes where there should be sills. I can’t vouch for the integrity of the work, my point being that there are people who will tackle a basket case for you – but it all takes time and time is cost…..
Someone suggested you look for a post 1968 car if you wanted a donor chassis. I would say post 70 as there was a dashboard change for the 1970 year. If you are going to go to the trouble of finding a 1970s car with a good chassis, then you’d be far better off adopting that as your ‘real’ car and (if you really needed to) transplanting bits from your current car: engine, panels, seats, carpets etc.
Paul
Thanks Justin. The car featured in the ‘servicing the goddess” videos is Swedish and has those extra heaters on both sides.
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