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Yes. Justin. I’ve just checked and I’d agree. A DS20 seems to have kept 180s on the front and 155s on the rear.
Most people these days will recommend fitting 185s all round on all corners. One of the reasons for fitting 185s over 180s is that you get getter handling, and can buy some good, but cheaper, Michelin copies. Retro brand?
If fitting 185s to the back, one of the things you need to be careful of (and I don’t think it will be a problem in your case) is that your car has rear wings suitable for 185s – or even 165s!
I say this because my car is from 68. It originally had 180s on the front and 155s on the back. the shape pf the rear wing is slightly different – with a gentle sweeping curve. This means there is not a lot of room for a wider tyre. When the 165s were introduced for the rear, the bottom wing edge stays wider for longer, then suddenly tucks in behind the rear wing. tis effectively gives more space behind the wing. It’s very, very likely that your car will have the wings to suit wider tyres – especially if they are original to the car.
185s can make the car look ‘heavy’ at the back. Partly for that reason, I’m planning to stick to 180s on the front for mine, with 155s on the back – as it was originally sold. So it looks as though I’ll need to buy Michelin BUT, I read somewhere (Kris from Citroen Classics?) that the current batch of Michelin tyres on the market were wearing out very quickly and the compound was considered to be too soft. For this reason, my plan ‘B’ would reluctantly be 185s on the front and, if so, i might as well take advantage of the cheaper copies. My car is off the road at the moment so i will cross that bridge when i come to it.
There are incidents where the clutch fork lever rubs on the steering rack (as opposed to the steering column) and tears one of the rubber boots.
That would not really be a repetitive thing – other than that it happened every time the clutch was pressed! Is the repetitive clicking like a pulsing? Do you think it might be related to fluid pressure or do you suspect it is more mechanical/ physical? Does it also do it with the engine off? Does it doe it with the engine off and the car stopped for several hours?
You need to remove the radiator hood for better access, then have someone sit in the car and go through the motions while you check with a torch. Best to do it with the engine off to start with, but if you need to do it with the engine running, you can safely do so with the radiator hood removed – just be very careful of belts and blades! And try not to get run over.
Yep. My Weber was (is) the same. You can see it in one of the photos five or six down here:
https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2018/10/dressing-engine-part-2-fitting-crc-and.html
I can offer an opinion based on what I’ve seen Steve.
The original bonded roofs had a thin, token black ‘sealing’ strip tucked under the edge of the stainless steel roof edge trim. So there was a thin, neat black, rubber edge between the trim and the painted roof. You can still buy that rubber strip and I have seen roof rebonded (with Sikaflex or whatever) that also then use that black rubber finishing trim. However, I have also seen roofs where extra (sikaflex) was applied and then smoothed down to give a neat finish – and meaning that a rubber finishing strip wasn’t needed. When I asked the car owner/ driver, he said that he had used low tack masking tape around the bottom edge of the roof so that, when removed, it gave a clean. straight line – same effect as when you use the rubber strip. So in summary, black sealant should be fine and you should need to paint it. It will either be hidden under an extra rubber finishing strip, or its visible. Either way, it’s quite acceptable (to the eye) for a DS to have a thin black ‘ring’ around the bottom roof edge. If the roof is off. paint it before refitting it. Hope this makes sense!
Hi Steve. So yours is a D Super built in 1970. is that before September 70 (making it a 1970 model year car) or after September 70 (making it 1971 model year? That is probably relevant.
Coming to the point in your post above, When Blue Palatine was introduced for the 1970 model year, it was only offered on pallas cars. So even though you have contrasting body and roof colours (which was perfectly possible for a D Super it seems), one wouldn’t expect to find a D Super with a Blue Palatine body. It was only in 1971 that Blue palatine was offered as a D Super colour. So I’m guessing yours is tail end of 1970?
As to roof colour – I haven’t got a clue! I knew that D Specials had a ‘blanc cygne’ roof, but had previously thought that D Supers had a rod the same colour as the body. If a Super could have body colour OR a contrasting colour, then I’ve no idea what those might have been. If you like what you’ve got (whatever it is), is there any way you can get it colour-matched?
Paul
Good to know about that scuttle panel. Always worth knowing about.
Last word – on roof colours. Your choice entirely of course, but now is the time to think about roof colours if you have not already decided.
Bleu Palatine was only used as a body colour for a couple of years – 1970 and 1971. 1970 it was offered as a pallas only colour. For 1971 the offer of that colour was expanded to include all DS models plus the D Super. It was only the D special that wasn’t available in bleu palatine.
When it was offered and the car was a saloon, the roof would have been painted the same colour – bleu palatine.
A bleu palatine safari/ break was offered with a gris rose roof as standard.
Paul
UPDATE:
Looks like it could be “Sikaflex 221”. here is something I found on 221 on a webpage for camper van bits:
“Sikaflex is well know in the Motorhome and Caravan industry as the market leader for polyurethane flexible glue. The product is fully sprayable/paintable and has extremely high impact strength. The adhesive is used for a whole host of applications, bonding roofs, skylights, awning brackets and rails, Timber to metal, and metal to metal applications. As well as a sealant for doors, windows, motorhome/caravan panels, internal shower trays and panels, and pretty much any thing else you can think of. There are cheaper polyurethane products out there but the Sikaflex and its excellent UV resisting abilities make it stand out as the product to rely on”.
You’re making progress Steve! I can’t speak from experience about the roof sealant as my roof is the old bolt-on type, however i can pass on sone thoughts.
There is an old thread on the ‘Aussiefrogs’ site where someone proposes using Sikaflex 291. However, someone else then points out that as well as being a sealant, it’s a very strong adhesive, so may be difficult/ impossible to remove the roof down the line if you feel you need to.
Anyway, someone contacted Sikaflex and they recommend 252 as an alternative as it retains some elasticity.
The “Citroends” website sell a Sikaflex product for bonding roofs. Their ‘part’ number is 815830, but they cunningly hide what the Sikaflex product reference is. Looks to be ’22 something’. So not 291 or 252!
I’m sure others on here will be able to recommend something based on actual experience!
Paul
Hi Ben
I think you will find it’s a 28/36, not 28/26.Carbs are going for silly money at the moment. Why do you need to replace yours? Sure it’s a not a simple and cheap fix? Have you eliminated all the easy and cheap options?
Common problems are sucking unwanted air in around a warped base. You can flatten the carb base, or use a little bit of mastic to fill out the gap. You can of course buy rebuild kits – new needle valves etc.to give it a spruce up. Check float level? Clean fuel filter behind the big brass plug?
Expensive problems are “worn spindles” and the fix is to have them re-bushed. It’s probably cheaper to have yours fixed by a general carb specialist, than to buy a rebuilt replacement from a DS dealer.
Hi Ben
A 1973 4 speed 1985cc D Super is classed by the factory as a ‘DT’ vehicle and would have had a ‘DY3’ engine in it when new (check the little plate riveted on above the starter in from of the exhaust manifold).When new, it would have had one of two different distributors: either a Ducellier 4291B distributor, or a SEV-Marchal A251.
You’ll need to have a look at it closely (around the alloy body below the distributor cap) to see which brand it is or you may still end up buying the wrong bits. It’s also possible that at some point in the past someone has chucked on a random distributor – so always wise to check.
Good work Steve. i’m jealous. i suspect I will have to do something similar when i get to that stage on my car.
Paul
Not my cup of tea, but I once saw a BX drive past me with the reg A16 VBX – with the numbers and letters placed as “A 16V BX” of course……
I saw that Aussiefrog listing. Your cup runeth over!
Paul
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