[Paul Burridge]

I don’t doubt you Colin, but have never understood the mechanics of that little tube. Others have also queried perils of the diameter of the long tube to drain away excess fuel under the manifold – in terms of it sucking air into the manifold. What are both those pipes for?

[Paul Burridge]

Mines the mid 60s dash, and this is the left hand vent, but you can see that it has a couple of bolt heads showing, these are removed from underneath the metal dashboard shelf.I’m assuming its the 70s equivalent bit you’re trying to remove?

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
My car is a DS21 and has the manifold in two pieces. A DS20 (and a number of other models) has a one piece exhaust manifold. `If yours is two pieces, it’s not a DS20 manifold.

If the pipe is the one in my photo here, then the fat pipes are part of a breather system from the sump (to alleviate oil pressure i think?). The small pipe goes into the inlet manifold just underneath the carb. The fitting screwed into the manifold has a small pin-sized hole (okay maybe 2mm diameter). When i stripped my engine I found that hole blocked.In fact all the pipes can get filled with gunk and dried oil.

I don’t think it will make a huge difference to running, but it’s worth replacing that little pipe (I used a bolt of fuel line that I bought) and making sure the little pin-sized hole into the manifold is clear.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi David. As I have a different dash, I suspect I’m not understanding exactly what it is you’re trying to remove, as I’d have expected it to be pretty intuitive once the dash was off. Clearly not. Hopefully someone else would have been there and can advise.

[Paul Burridge]

Are you talking about the units right at each end with the levers to adjust volume and direction of cold air? Hopefully Peter Bremner can offer some specific advice – as his car has the same dash. I can only offer non-specific opinion….My dash is older and i’ve pulled it out. The dash had to come out before the air vent units as they were bolted inside the car.Only about threw bolts but buried behind the dash.

There are instructions for removing the dash in one of the downloads workshop manuals. The instructions there may include steps covering those air vents. You’ll find it at page 5 onwards of operation D.520-1 in Section three of volume 2 of manual 814. If you haven’t got one, you can download a free pdf copy from the internet.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
Not a particularly common failure. Are you sure it’s coming from around the edge of the pump bell housing and not a tiny split in the rubber feed hose on top – even possibly under where the hose clip is fitted?

If not the feed hose, then it might either be the seal – as you think – or it could be that the main aluminium pump body (with the groove that the bell housing seal sits in) has cracked…..

Getting the bell housing off is not particularly hard and will enable you to inspect the aluminium body – though the cracks can be tiny. If you do find a cracked body, then you can get steel replacements. But if you don’t fancy all the work, or expense, you are better off buying a reconditioned replacement. Though beware: Andy Todd on facebook reported the same problem earlier this week and it turned out to be a faulty replacement pump he had bought.

Here is my blog thing on stripping the HP pump

https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/hp-pump-stripdown-and-overhaul.html

Paul

[Paul Burridge]

By the way Justin. On the photo that shows your wiper motor, I can see a vertical, metal, corrugated tube above the exhaust that is loose from your big air intake. You should connect this as it looks like your car has an air cleaner with a ‘summer/ winter” switch. You flick the little secret switch to ‘winter’ and it opens a little flap that pulls warm air off the top of your exhaust and into the air filter – and then carburettor. It helps to improve winter running when the air entering the carb is otherwise quite cold.

[Paul Burridge]

Nice to see some pictures. That armrest looks like it’s always been there 🙂

That boot floor is going in a number of places. It possibly had a lining inside iy which got wet on the back – like a sponge. Also possibly the undersea on the bottom outside is bubbling and trapping moisture. It’s non-structural and your repair should keep it going until you get round to a replacement. As i’ve said previously – straightforward compared to other repairs.

The coil is on the other side of the engine bay. Trace back the four spark plug leads to the distributor cap. Trace back the other lone, single thick wire that goes into the distributor cap, and the other end comes out the top of the coil.

I’m waiting on these to arrive. They are extra heat matrices that slip inside the cold air tubes to make them hot air tubes 🙂 Here’s a photo of them fitted to Ian Kelso’s car.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
I followed ‘Badabec’s (Peters) suggestion and set up a basic account with Imgbb. I think the trick (when you are uploading and invited by your picture host to ’embed codes’) is to select the option of “BBCode full linked”. When you then want to create and copy a link to that uploaded image, it then pops up on the CCC site.

Paul

[Paul Burridge]

Each to his own, but personally i would rather have tired but honest original, over perfect repro. every time.

[Paul Burridge]

I think you will have more ‘since’ moneys – but that goes with owning an old DS (again). The fact that the parcel shelf has been replaced is indicative of a leak – but on the plus side is one less job to do! Any chance the roof might have been off and the gutter looked at? In the meantime, and as Peter says, don’t let it stop you enjoying your car.

In my D (when back on the road) it’s going to be a load of Serge Gainbourg and Ye-ye, plus obscure film soundtracks I suspect.

[Paul Burridge]

Good find. Reasonable price? I agree it will look better and match your seats if it has a bit of age and character. When you fit that, you’ll feel like a king!

[Paul Burridge]

Well done with the indicator and the aerial looks good too. very retro.

So your hole is in the boot floor Justin? To answer your question, don’t know about the cost of a boot floor replacement, but it is a fairly straightforward job. Basically a big flat square panel – so that should keep the cost down. As well as repairing it at some point, you perhaps need to find out how it came to rust. Did water get into, and sit in the boot? If so, where did it get in? Roof is always a prime suspect. It’s quite common for it to leak in, run along the internal roof gutters that slope towards the rear indicators, then runs down be hind the ‘C’ post padding and into the boot via the corners of the parcel shelf.

Your rust at the front. is that close to the aerial mount point? Is it where the small closing piece of stainless steel is? That’s a another common rust point. Sad to say the rust is often more extensive than just the bit you can see. but as I say, it’s a common problem and many D drivers live with it and just enjoy there cars. Art some point you might want to get your front screen out (pretty simple) to inspect what is there.

[Paul Burridge]

Photos! We need photos!

[Paul Burridge]

I’m clutching at straws really. I’m not 100% sure that any marks will tell you anything – but just might. The pistons for my 2175cc car all have “8.75” for example. No idea what it means…..

[Author]

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