[Paul Burridge]

Did you also put this on facebook as I’m sure I saw this elsewhere?

If you look in the Citroenian mag, there are regional groups covering the Midlands: groups for ‘Midlands’, ‘East Midlands’ and ‘West Midlands’. I’m not sure which covers leicester. Anyway, those groups will have ‘active’ members (as opposed to ‘passive’ CCC members). Contact the group email addresses and see if they can find local people willing to help you. The emails 9and phone numbers) are in the back of the club magazine.

[Paul Burridge]

I’m getting a bit confused. isn’t the ‘fig 2’ cylinder in one of my photos the same as the cylinder in my photo with page 184 in the corner?

They seem to be and, if that is so, then parts DM.453-10 and DM.453.13 are parts in the ‘fig 2’ version – they would be parts 17 and 16. The point I’m trying to make here is that if you have found a seller with two original seals that are LHM compatible I think they DO go in your cylinder.

On the subject of the kit from the other seller. If that uses modern materials, the seals might also be safe for LHM. It’s worth asking the question if you have not done so already.

Lastly – how to upload photos. To add images, we first upload an image to a file hosting site. ImgBB is a popular choice as they have a limited capacity ‘free hosting’ option. Of course others are available.

Once the image is on the site, we then copy a a particular kind of link and paste it into our message here. The important think when selecting which kind of embedded link code to get, is to choose ‘BBcode full linked’ as per my image here. Just paste that into your post on this site.

You won’t see the image pop up until you submit your post here and it’s published – then the image magically appears.

[Paul Burridge]

Okay. Yes, I realise yours is the fig 2 version – the one i put the red rings against.

[Paul Burridge]

I realise now (from the rebuild instructions) that parts 16 and 17 are also rubber – and shaped. Are those the unavailable parts?

Without mentioning names, I’ve raised this on Aussiefrogs for you asking if there is a solution or work-around. You are not the first person to have converted an old LHS DS to LHM so there MUST be a solution.

[Paul Burridge]

Still duff?

It should come up with this:

[Paul Burridge]

I think that first link is duff. Try this:

https://www.o-ring-stocks.eu/o-ring-18.7×1.9-nbr-nitrile-70-shore-a-black-ors173365

[Paul Burridge]

Here are a couple of leads for you.

https://www.o-ring-stocks.eu/o-ring-18.7×1.9-nbr-nitrile-70-shore-a-black-ors173365

https://www.o-ring-stocks.com/o-ring-27.7-x-2.7-nbr45-black

You might need to get them to make them for you. You mind find they are 6p each but you need to buy a minimum of 200!

[Paul Burridge]

Hi. I think I’ve found the part you mean. Page 184 in manual 470 for IDs. is that right?

From what I can work out, there are only two seals: 4929-S seals the screw cap on the end and DS.444-63 seals the two halves of the body together. Both look like ‘O’ rings. Can you not get nitrile (LHM friendly) seals in those sizes – or very close to them?

Where is it actually leaking from? Sure it’s the seals? Sure your specialist hasn’t put it together wrong? Or left a seal out! Could it be that the metal pipes connected to it have been muddled?

I would try and buy some ‘O’ ring seals and have another go. The repair manual gives instructions on how to go about stripping and cleaning.

Failing that, join ‘Aussiefrogs’ and see if our friends down under have some ideas for a fix or a work-around. They like their older LHS Ds down there. Maybe there is a way to fit a later brake valve?

Failing THAT, See if one of the major european parts supplier sells these on a P/X basis. You might have to ask if they can supply one with LHM seals but a lot of the parts rebuilt these days seem to have seals suitable for LHS and LHM.

[Paul Burridge]

I can see in an earlier post that i queried a ‘bevelled edge’ of the rubber bing visible beyond the stainless finishing trim.

The glass aperture in the wing has a raised profile (a ridge) on the inside. Probably to strengthen the hole and stop it distorting around the edges. My earlier photo above suggested that the groove in the rubber sat over that ridge, with the flat side of the rubber against the glass. Is that what you are finding?

[Paul Burridge]

Great photos.

I have all this to come…. Ive just stripped my doors for the purposes of replacing the rear door bottoms.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
I’ve done height corrector

https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2022/10/height-corrector-stripdown-and-rebuild.html

and (front) cylinder

https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2023/05/front-suspension-cylinders-strip-down.html

rebuilds if it helps.

[Paul Burridge]

I thought that might be the case Chris.

To add images, we first upload an image to a file hosting site. ImgBB is a popular choice as they have a limited capacity ‘free hosting’ option. Of course others are available.

Once the image is on the site, we then copy a link and paste it into our message here. The important think when selecting which kind of embedded link code to get, is to choose ‘BBcode full linked’ as per my image here. Just paste that into your post on this site.

You won’t see the image pop up until you submit your post here and it’s published – then the image magically appears.

[Paul Burridge]

Is your car manual gear change or bvh Chris? You say it’s five speed?

[Paul Burridge]

That’s not a bad solution at all – given what you’re dealing with. You could even use a grommet in the back hole – fitted and removed through the zip opening.

[Paul Burridge]

I’ve never seen one there like that before – but that’s not to say it’s not an ‘official’ Citroen fitting. It would be odd though as it leaves the release nut *exactly* where you don’t want it……Anyway, it sounds as though you have a solution.

I found that mine was best reached with a stubby spanner. So i bought another so that i can carry it on the car in my toolkit.

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