[Paul Burridge]

I bought one of those plastic blocks from Wickes. Shattered it. I also used an oak block. Splintered it.

When the liners were finally out, like Peter i also spent a fair bit of time getting the very hard and crusty stuff off the ledges on which the liners sit. they need to be smooth and flat for the ridiculously thin paper seals to sit on. And – like peter again, i applied a tiny bit of sealant on both sides of those gaskets to try to increase the likelihood of a leak-free seal.

[Paul Burridge]

Still no Peter?

Are the engine and gearbox being separated? is a new clutch being fitted. it’s the deal time. Also wise to change to camshaft oil seal and bearing while the engine is out. and the parking brake pads….

[Paul Burridge]

We’re still waiting for Peter….

Some very positive progress!

If a mallet and block isn’t budging them, then those liners might indeed need hydraulic pressure to get those liners to pop out. A friendly local garage will probably be able to assist. If you/ car owner can get the block to them….

I wouldn’t bother saving the liners (even though my rebuild used secondhand worn liners from Peter!). If one has a score mark it needs replacing then the car owner might as well buy a set of four for peace of mind. And this might be the ideal time to convert to 2175cc. If he/ she does upgrade, they might want to consider a carb intended for a 2175cc car (thougfh seek advice as simply changing jets on a 1985cc car might be all that is needed to get the best from the 2175cc. What is the carb anyway? it should have it’s model type stamped on it somewhere.

Oil leak. My gasket set had a cork seal – not felt. and I’m pretty sure the old one i took off was cork. I ‘glued’ the new one to the groove in the crankshaft cap with a little sealant. I put a thin smear of sealant all the way round the edge of the sump when i fitted it and was a little extra generous at the area that mated to the cork seal.

Here is what the Citroen repair manual says on the subject.

[Paul Burridge]

Julian Klepacki wrote:

So with those C:R 5spd boxes is the final ratio the same as a 4spd, just has an extra gear in between to ‘closen’ things up? I believe you can get them C:R or a taller final drive?

If you look higher up this thread for 5 June i posted a couple of tables of the gear ratios. Firstly the 4 speed and then the five speeds.

[Paul Burridge]

I had thought the same as you, but I now understand that either all efi cars, or all 23s had that extra heat shielding as well – not just pallas spec. Something like that….. Lots of people add it retrospectively.

My first car was a 1969 spec ID19b. So that’s the car that became the humble D special in 1970. It didn’t have turning oe dipping lights, clock, power steering or heater (!). Like yours, the second pair of (fixed) lights simply came on as extra candles when you put the car on high beam. I think that might have had the mountain gearbox but I’m not sure. Oh – and it’s garage was the street 🙂 I loved that car. last I heard it was in the Midlands. it would be nice if it popped up at the D rally this weekend.

[Paul Burridge]

My sympathies Ian. i realise i’m lucky. I think the more space one has, the more stuff one buys to fill it…..

[Paul Burridge]

I haven’t cut my shin since…..yesterday.

We lived in an Edwardian semi with on-street parking, which is why my car sat forgotten in a barn just outside Little Horwood. My wife is ALWAYS house hunting. As our kids started to grow it was felt we needed a bigger garden and separate bathroom. She wasn’t wrong. I told my wife that if she could find a bigger house with suitably large garage, i had no objections to moving. A couple were rejected on the grounds of the garage size before she called my bluff and found something that ticked all the boxes. And like you – I recognise that i’m lucky.

The floor of mine was bare concrete and so broke up into dust. Very bad for hydraulics. I took the opportunity to paint the whole floor with two part epoxy. it still gets dust and leaves on it but is much easier to clean. I also painted the walls white to brighten it up a bit. There is also a car port outside the garage high enough to fully raise a D bonnet.

My grump is that i wish i’d made the door through to the workshop next to the door through to the garden (behind the red tool chest in my photo). That way I could park the D in the corner of the garage and wouldn’t have to squeeze behind it to get to the workshop – cutting my shins as i do.

[Paul Burridge]

As a 68, my car is from the first year that had the third front and – but for a few months – it would have been second nose.

I vaguely remember Darrin telling me that the two L and R ‘tusks’ that form the sides of the engine bay are either a bit longer or shorter on second nose cars, so it’s not a straight swap. obviously it;s more than possible as Darrin did it. and there is that company in Germany that makes fantasy Ds: other than a wavey dash and Jaeger dials seemingly being obligatory, you can have anything you want on a donor chassis, so that would include the nose shape.

[Paul Burridge]

Garage envy again…..

It looks remarkably like mine – but bigger 🙁 With the nose of my car at the garage door, i have about 2 feet behind (if that) to squeeze around. Yours is also possibly wider? i have racking down that RHS and stuff stored along the LHS (welder, compressor, engine crane…… etc) but am not left with as much room around the car. It’s a double garage though so maybe the same width? I do benefit from a door through to a ‘workshop’ in the far RHS corner but the first photo in this thread shows how full that gets!

The photo here was taken back in 2017! I’m hoping that once i’ve assembled my car i can have a clear out and make space.

[Paul Burridge]

John Montgomery wrote:

Not sure I got the last post right, try this one:

Ahh yes. I thought you might mean those.

The ones on my car (1968) are plain BRUSHED steel (some are plain shiny steel). They were quite badly dented and quite reluctantly I decided to buy new. I had to search quite hard. Darrin at Citroen Classics doesn’t normally stock them but got them in as a special order for me – probably from one of there European suppliers.

[Paul Burridge]

Subject to affordability, I agree with Julian that the Banbury car sounds like it ticks your particular boxes.

For comparison, on Facebook Neal Humphreys has today announced he is selling his (1966?) DS21 pallas. It’s frogeye with the extra pair of bulbous lamps, old style wavey dash like mine, radio like mine. Good panels, mechanically sound apparently, but would benefit from a full respray. he’s only asking for £10K. He’s taking it to the D rally this weekend (saturday evening and Sunday). I think he’ll find a buyer quickly, despite the fact it’s not an LHM car (he runs it on a different fluid as recommended by Adie Pease).

[Paul Burridge]

I used some CT-1 to help secure them in place and always planned to repaint them once i’d realised the paint had come off. i just forgot….

i should go outside right now (after i’ve finished this tea) and slap some paint on.

On the ‘b’ post bottoms, the seals slide into the holders. I can’t remember if i tried to crimp them in place.

[Paul Burridge]

I should add: If you wanted to ask about SA cars, I expect there will be a couple at the D rally at the weekend (Sunday being the busiest day).

[Paul Burridge]

Hi Chris
I’m not sure what bit you are calling the ‘sill embellishers’. We also use different terminology:) Do you mean the bits right down below the sill – visible even when the doors are closed, or do you mean the square-patterned bits on the sills inside the doors?

I suspect it was a requirement that some parts of cars sold by Citroen in SA were made locally. I don’t know the history well enough. I know tat SA cars had different hub caps and (i think?) different door handles for example.

[Paul Burridge]

Yes, the curved edge of the rubber is the ‘outer’ and the nice square angle buts up against your c post – but the rubber parts are hollow, and the arms of the metal bracket in the bottom of the post grip the INNER side of the wall that butts up against the post…

Not only is the rubber part hollow, but it’s ‘walls’are fattened (rounded) on the lip of theiir inner, unseen faces to give that clip something to hang on to. The radius in the curve of the ‘claw’ only needs to be sufficient to navigate the width of the wall of the rubber piece and go around the lip – not the whole piece.

As you can see from this photo when you realise you need to bend those arms up and round – all your paint flakes off! That is probably why on so many cars those delicate little claws rust and the rubbers fall off.

[Author]

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