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Well I’ve only gone and bloody done it!
With advice and suggestions from Steve Kendall and Geoffrey over on Aussiefrogs I’ve successfully added Bluetooth alongside my vintage radio (that’s ‘alongside’ rather than replaced) and both are controlled through my fader/ mixer control. It’s all controlled by the radio on/ off knob and I’ve not had to gut the radio and the changes I’ve made are reversible. I’ve basically soldered two wires inside the radio. Everything else is external and ‘plug and play’.
The radio is mono and so had just one channel into the fader, which was then divided between a front and rear speaker (twin mono if you will). I added a Bluetooth receiver and a stereo amp. The radio output goes into the amp as one channel, and the Bluetooth signal goes in as the other. Both channels come out of the amp and go into a DPDT (double pole-double throw) relay module. The relay allows one or other channel to pass through – so either the signal from the radio, or the signal from the Bluetooth. The selected channel then goes to my fader control and out to my front and rear speakers.
The radio power comes from the accessory terminal so there is no need to turn on the ignition – which risks damaging the coil. The power for the Bluetooth amp and relay are also wired to the accessory terminal, but the ‘wake-up’ signals they depend on come from switching the radio on. When the radio is off, there is no power drain.
At the moment I’m using a momentary switch on the side of my dash to trigger the relay to switch, but i have plans to install a ‘secret’ button on the radio for selecting/ deselecting bluetooth.
I feel another table coming on……
The top table includes the 2175cc DSuper5 (‘DP’ vehicles). the bottom table is for ‘DT’ vehicles. These are the 1985cc ‘DSupers’ with the optional 5th gear.
EDIT. I wrote that the ID19 and ID20 both had the same engine. They were both 1985cc, but the ID19 engine was badged as ‘DV2’ and the ID20 engine was badged as ‘DY2’.
Although the 1985cc DSuper was briefly available with a fifth gear option, that seems to have been revoked – with a ‘DSuper’ reverting to 4 gears – when the ‘proper’ DSuper5 was added to the ID range. if you wanted a fifth gear, you had to buy the 2175cc car.
Into the 70s, and even though the names changed, i think you still find ‘ID19’ and ‘ID20’ on the chassis tags up by the wiper motor.
This table is useful. Confusingly, while an ID19 had a DV engine and the factory car code was also DV, ID20s had the ‘DY’ engine but the factory car code was ‘DT’! That’s because the car code ‘DY’ was already used for the 1985cc Ds19s. SO….an ID 20 (later the DSuper like the St.Albans car) is basically a DS19 but with manual gear change. it’s beginning to sound quite attractive! Right at the bottom are the ‘DP’ cars – these are the 2175cc ‘DSuper5’ cars that used to be Ds21s.
Where as previously there was only an ID19, in 1969 Citroen added an ID20 alongside the ID19. Both were manual four speeds with the same 1985cc engines, except that the ID20 had slightly better trim and was tuned to give a few more BHP.
For the 1970 year, the cars were renamed. the ID19 became the DSpecial and the ID20 became a DSuper.
After a year or so, Citroen offered an extra fifth gear for the D Super – so there were SOME 1985cc cars that were DSuper (5)s. The DS21 (2175cc) could be bought with a manual 5 speed box.
Then in 72 or maybe 73, the DS21 was dropped from the Ds range and instead resurrected as part of the ID range – where it became the 2175cc ‘DSuper 5’. Sounds like the St.Albans car is a standard 1985cc 4 speed DSuper. Chassis tags still said ‘ID20’. All perfectly legit. It may not be a ‘DSuper5’. but it’s still a step above a DSpecial and from what Julian has said, might be worth haggling over.
If it helps….
These are four photos by Stuart McGregor that go with the text in the post above – which I repeat here. You can also find a good exploded diagram of the parts in drawing number 2-142/1 in the early pages of manual 648.
As Stuart wrote:
From the bottom you’ll have to undo the pinch bolt on the lever (this is a reference to the bolt through part 7 in the drawing) and pry the lever off the pedal shaft (part 1 in the drawing)…….
…..to get to the split pin/clevis pin (Stuarts photo above shows some kind of knotted or tangled wire?) that secures the cable inner at the bottom end.
Then from the top you need to remove the pozidrive screw that holds the clamp plate (part 5?) holding the outer in place. (near to the engine mount bolt).
With that done remove the clamp plate and the outer will lift out.
A telescopic magnetic picker may be your friend here! There’s a pic that shows that upper part disassembled if that helps.Getting that small clamp plate (part 5) in position and fixed on reassembly will most likely be your biggest challenge. You may be best to remove a few items that obscure it. Perhaps the weight fixed to the bulkhead and the engine mount? (In a later post Stuart said it may not be as bad as he thought and that a LONG screwdriver could be used to access the screw).
Have included a pic that includes these two items (the phots above), though appreciate that there’s a lot of EFI hardware etc also sitting above this area.
Get yourself a good dSuper 5 and i think you’ll find it a keeper. Prior to 1973, it was a badged as a Ds21 5 speed manual but they are virtually the same thing.
Not cars i’d suggest you entertain, but I had THREE barn finds at the weekend! Last June I’d run past someone’s house in a local village early one morning and spotted a white DS on a drive. i went back and took a photo and put a note through the door but heard nothing.
On sunday (12 months later!) the owner texted me out of the blue asking for advice and a possible value.
The white car under a car cover turned out to be a LHD 1969 ID20. It had obvious rot around the front top of the screen which you have to assume will be found to be much worse when you inevitably take the roof off. (You can see it in the photo above). Sure enough there had been water in the footwells and the drivers footwell floor was rotted (you could see the ground through it) though the inner sills seemed okay. there were some signs of minor rust in the boot but the floor looked solid. i couldn’t get behind the panel that covers the torsion bar. the gutters along the sides of the boot seemed very tidy whereas i’d expected rust. I couldn’t see the underside of the car or exhaust. Money had been spent on the car a few years ago over at the Chevronics Centre including a new alternator and other engine work. They had also said it might need a head gasket replacement. Under the bonnet it looked ‘tired’ and dirty but nothing that would not clean up and i’ve seen a LOT worse. On the plus side, as a 69 car, it has the quirky old ‘slab’ dash. The ID20 is the more powerful variant of the ID19 and in 1970 was re-badged the ‘DSuper’. As such, it’s like the St.Albans car but a couple of years older. For someone who knows what to expect, this could be a nice car after some work. I would estimate this is worth £4K to £5K to the right, brave person who knows what they’re doing and that feels consistent with £10K for the more solid St. Albans car.
Anyway, he then told me he had two more Ds in barns! Both LHD and both covered in a patina of heavy dust. He’d had all three cars over 20 years and these other two had not been driven/ run in quite a while. First up was a 1975 DS23 eft bvh pallas with leather interior – so top spec.
Metallic grey with black leather. It had had a cheap(ish) respray and was showing surface rust though nothing serious. No major dinks that i could see. Couldn’t see underneath. No weeds, no mould, no mildew. It was ‘complete’ – all together, and looked very respectable under the bonnet just dust and grease.
With a bit of tinkering it looked like it could be persuaded to start. Possible water pump or expansion tank leak. Efi’s can be tricky beasts and as it’s not currently a runner, i felt that would affect the value/ interest.
Next up was a 1967 frogeye ID19!
This was lovely – very original – dark blue with a white roof and a very tidy red rhovyline interior.
Like the white car it has the ‘slab’ dashboard – albeit with different style buttons and stalks and the addition of a hazard light with on the dash. The hazard light looked to be genuine Citroen type. paintwork/ bodywork very tidy. Coffin shaped tail lights (not cracked) and plastic rear indicator trumpets (not cracked).Boot clean and tidy.
No signs of rust that i remember. Couldn’t get the bonnet up so not sure if it had power steering or not. Couldn’t see underneath. No weeds, no mould, no mildew. Overall it looked very respectable and very ‘genuine’. Again, not been run in a while but should be easy to get it going as a ‘proof of concept’. i would like to think that – after a good clean and hoover – this car could virtually be used as it was. But that is what i thought about my car 12 years ago!
I’m trying to hook him up with potential sale sites/ buyers.
