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I look at it often, but struggle to navigate the Nuancier site so it’s nice to be pointed to a page I’d not seen before.
Rather than ‘T’ in, it extends the circuit so that there is one big loop, warming the front first and then the back, before returning via the bottom radiator connection.
Thanks for the Car Builder Solutions idea Paul. I’d wondered about whether it was possible to build a modern -15 degree heater solution and there look like things there that could do the trick.
I have a complete -15 system that I’m planning to sell soon – including the special seat base to hold the pipes/ tubes and the front radiator blind. But they are very hard to find and the price will reflect that.
Biting the bullet and buying a modern DS screen with new (efficient) heater element probably is the simplest way to go. Swapping the rear screen over is very straightforward. But there are alternatives.
For example mine is ‘water-powered’. My car has an extra rear heater unit with a matrix hidden behind the rear seat. Warm air is blown down to the feet of the rear passenger and up to the rear screen to demist it. It’s usually covered by the parcel shelf material, but there is a slot in all our parcel shelves right up by the bottom of the screen edge to facilitate this type of heater.
That’s probably not helpful to you, BUT, you can buy electrical equivalents. So it might be possible to rig up a little electrical heater under the parcel shelf, that exploits that slot to warm the rear screen. ‘Car Builder Solutions’ sell various bits and pieces. just search for ‘demist’ on their site.
Let us know how you get on.
You probably know, but the D Super (still the same engine as your DSpecial but tuned and with slightly better trim) was offered with an optional 5th gear. So while there were 4 speed ‘D Supers’, there were also ‘D Super….5s’. these still had 1985cc engines and are not to be confused with the later ‘DSuper5s’ though as those later cars had 2175cc engines and were essentially re-branded manual gear change DS21s.
Hello Chris and welcome
As with Rob, the ‘Nuancierds’ is a frequent go-to site for me.The Pallas question is a tricky one. Just about all the parts that distinguished a pallas from a standard DS are either being re-manufactured, or can be bought secondhand.
Yes – that silver strip across the dash is a good sign of a Pallas – but can be added by someone willing to take a dashboard apart. And now that everyone knows about it, i’m sure people ARE adding them.
The other ‘tell’ was the two handles in the driving compartment that are pulled to open the bonnet catches. Ds have simple knobs of wire. Pallas pulls have a moulded ‘trigger’ for you to pull with your finger. unfortunately – you’ve guessed it – those can be bought second hand and added.
It helps (a little) to look at ‘pallas’ more holistically. As the top of the range finish, the cars were for those with ‘deeper pockets’ willing to splash out on a few whistles and bells.
Pallas cars often – though not always – have metallic paint finishes. If the car you look at has a metallic finish, you can check that the little round paint code tag up by the wiper motor corresponds to the colour of the car. Pallas cars were carpeted. If a car is carpeted and the carpets are original – that might suggest Pallas. Seats were often leather – but not always… if NOT leather, then the foam in the seats was plumper than on a standard D (I think….). pallas seats also had stainless steel finishers on the sides of their bases.
The height changing lever had carpet covering it and the gate that the lever moved through was made of stainless steel.
Pallas cars often had a temperature gauge on the dashboard. these can be faked (from a fuel gauge) or added. On an original speedo unit, there is a little white thermometer printed onto the plastic lens infant of the temperature needle.
You really need to look for a number of clues and then consider them together. if buying from a DS seller (not auction site) ask them if it’s genuine Pallas.
If the sale comes with lots of receipts and they include the kind of things that pallas cars had – then it may have been faked-up (or improved – depending on how you view this).
These days, just about the only way to know for sure that a car rolled out of the factory as a pallas is if the seller still has the bill of sale saying what trim/ extras it had OR – more recently – the owner had applied to the Citroen Conservatoire for any history on the car and that says it rolled out as a Pallas.
Yes. I’m not happy with my work….
When first fitted, the clamp didn’t line up with the join of the two long pipes to the back box. It only went around the two long pipes. The back box needed to come forward. To achieve this, I took the plunge and trimmed a little off the long pipes. Now the clamp is closer to the back box (or rather the back box is closer to the clamp) but I get moisture drips at the join. i suspect the clamp is TOO close to the box and isn’t sufficiently compressing against the two tubes.
Well done. That’s quite a milestone – and no longer a millstone! It’s going to leave to plenty of useful space in the garage too.
I think i need to take off and refit my rear exhaust. I get drips of condensation falling from the join where one of the twin pipes enters the front end of the box.
Yes. the battery had to be moved to allow the last sticker to be stuck to the inner wing behind the reservoir.
19th January 2025 at 1:24 pm in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10500here is a ‘WeTransfer’ link to some more photos showing the brake pipe routing (although i also have photos showing minor variations).
Grab these while you can. The link will die in 3 or 4 days time.
19th January 2025 at 12:20 pm in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10499From previous posts it looks as though you describe your car as being the same as mine – a 1968 DS21 bvh (hydraulic gearbox). my only query is that in a previous post you say you have a ‘DY’ engine, which would have started life as 1985cc. Anyway, let me assume your car is a 1968 BVH car….
This first diagram here shows how the pipes fit the calipers on a
- bvh
car.
The pipe that goes from the LHS caliper to the accelerated idling control is fixed to the side of the engine – where the pressure regulator is, and at several other points along the way.
the pipe that goes to the centrifugal regulator goes over the bell housing and then straight up the bracket between HP pump and centrifugal regulator.
At their caliper ends, both pipes are fixed to the top of their respective calipers, then loop AROUND the outside of the parking brake mechanisms before continuing their journeys. I could maybe provide photos of these routes.
The second image here is from a later parts catalogue. caliper connections are the same. the only difference is in the routing and splitting leading to the calipers.
19th January 2025 at 9:11 am in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10498Thank you for your very, VERY kind words. The blog was started partly because it provided a use for the many reference photos i was taking. but the main reason was to try to encourage others to get stuck in and keep these lovely old cars going of course.
Brake pipes….There were different configurations of piping for bvh cars and manual cars. On a bvh car, the right front brake is bled up on the centrifugal regulator and the left brake is bled up by the carburettor(!) That affects how the pipes are connected to the brake calibers. I have photos for my 68 car, but I also have a couple of pictures of how they are fitted and will dig them out after i’ve walked the dog!
What is your car Michael? bvh or manual gear change?
I suspect the green colour was to clearly distinguish it from the previous red LHS. For the first couple of years after switching to LHM, new cars had a BIG label on the (green) reservoir to remind owners/ garages to top up with LHM and not LHS.
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