[Paul Burridge]

Several years ago i was trying to help a guy called Brian figure out his pipework. Not the guy you bought the pipe off is it?

You could do worse than join the Australian ‘Aussiefrogs’ forum and ask there and, along similar lines, contact the DS factory in South Africa. As major RHD markets, there may be some knowledge and expertise there.

[Paul Burridge]

Hi
I know the pipe you mean. On a RHD ID car, there is a 6.35mm return pipe/ hose coming from the brake valve. That is certainly true of the aluminium brake valves, and so it’s tempting to suggest that the pipe you are referring to is a continuation of that return pipe. BUT i think later valves were made of steel and a different design – so may not necessarily have a 6.35mm pipe.

Also, because of the reduced room in the RH footwell, there are some odd combinations of ID and DS brake system components. After 1970, RHD ID cars had the ID braking system but a brake mushroom. So I’m guessing a RHD Ds would have a mushroom, but the DS brake system? i suppose i’m only repeating what you are already concluding.

What’s behind your question? uncertain as to what part to buy/ source? Mismatched halves? Can you trace the relevant pipe from right to left and see where it ends up – to determine its function? In addition to the one here,’ve got a few more photos that might help??

[Paul Burridge]

parts sellers sell a Nyloc nut for the camshaft pulley shaft, but i discovered that camshafts can have two different ends….

One end has thread all the way to the end and so seems designed for a Nyloc nut. However on other (earlier?) camshafts the threaded parts doesn’t go all the way to the end and, instead, the shaft has a little notch where you are meant to bang in (stake) the lip of a nut to secure it.

So if you blindly buy a nyloc nut for a camshaft but haven’t twigged that you have an earlier shaft, the nut screws on BUT there is no thread on the tip of the shaft for the nylon part to bite on to. and so the nut doesn’t really tighten.

I needed a stake(d) nut for my shaft and the cheapest I could find was a trailer hub nut from a caravan place.

https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2023/08/camshaft-pulley-nut.html

[Paul Burridge]

No brass band there yesterday. maybe it’s a sunday thing. I hope not.

[Paul Burridge]

I’m curious to see how you get on. please keep us posted. Is it a genuine Citroen pump? if so, i believe they have the part number cast into the body somewhere.

Some people add welds to the pulley rivets to give extra strength. if yours is still together and simply sans rivet heads, is there scope to weld things back together?

[Paul Burridge]

Peter Bremner wrote:

No, I’m trying to get my ride heights correct.
Rear is fine, front pumps up to the bump stops and stays there.
Height corrector apart today and see what sort of mess I’ve made with the linkages.

In what lever position(s) does this happen?

Sounds as though the ‘cup’ that holds the ball of the height corrector is being pushed to its ‘fully open’ position (towards the nose of the car). This might be because of the linkage connected to the ARB or because of the rod arrangement connected to the height-setting lever.

It could be a sticky height corrector, or could be assembled wrongly?

I think you’ve seen it already, but i did a big write up on how i went about this.

https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2024/09/setting-height-corrector-linkages.html

[Paul Burridge]

I’ve yet to properly set my ride height. The manual says it should be done with a fully assembled and laden car – including fuel, people/ bags of potatoes, spare wheel, toolkit and a packet of sandwiches.

[Paul Burridge]

Have you decided on a final colour/ colours? i can’t remember.

[Paul Burridge]

I’ve just looked on the ‘dear franzose’ site as i know they sell a few RHD carpet sets. It looks like it is a DS part.

Their RHD pallas sets include your mystery piece. here’s an example – bottom left of the image when you get to it.

https://www.franzose.de/en/Citroen-DS-11CV-HY/DS/carpet-sets-and-floor-mats/ANR38369/

Given the difference in r and L footwells and the lack of space for pedals, i did wonder if it was an RHD pedal/ quadrant related thing. i’m not so sure though, as their LHD pallas sets include a piece I don’t recognise. Similar to your bit but – from what i can see – without the small square of vinyl. i wonder if it’s just included with sets so that – if you maybe have a hand operated parking brake, you can somehow fit it?????

[Paul Burridge]

On a RHD car is there a ‘box’ under the dash on the door side of the steering wheel? or is that maybe only on EFI cars to cover the computer??

[Paul Burridge]

Plastic foot pad…… as you’ve seen, the pad on my carpet is cracked. I got another carpet that is the wrong colour and faded – but has a good pad. At the moment I’m just using it as an over-carpet but at some point i plan to cut the pad off, somehow deal with it’s heated-joined edge, and then have to attached to my carpet – probably sewn on.

I suspect it will also be quite brittle and on the point of cracking so i’m not sure my plan will work. With replacement carpet sets – what do they use for the pad? more importantly, where do they source the stuff they use for their pads?

[Paul Burridge]

Yes, I can see now that the bars you’ve added are pretty damn sturdy. Any scope to fill in those ‘spare’ holes with offcuts of carpet and tuft them up to disguise them?

[Paul Burridge]

I used a ring compressor on my piston rings. i may also have used a soft mallet to tap the pistons all the way down.

before you get to that stage you’ll need to fit the liners and their ridiculously delicate paper gaskets. Once the liners are fitted it’s VERY important that you don’t allow them to rotate, tearing their paper gaskets and so allowing coolant to reach the sump when everything is assembled. So, once the liners placed, you need to fit a few bolts and washers in cylinder head bolt holes to pinch them down and stop the liners moving. You’ll need to plan ahead and make sure any bolt/ washer combos still allow you to fit your pistons….

[Paul Burridge]

I’m about 6’4″ (what’s that – 190cm?). I also find that i have to have the drivers seat right back. And could still do with more room. I suspect that – seat slid right back – there is proportionally more strain on the front rail fixings, so I avoided any idea of extenders. For the moment at least.

Will the holes hacked in your carpet for the rails show once the rails are down? I literally fitted my rails yesterday. the holes in the carpet are oval and you can just about see a bit of them still under the rail – but not enough to worry about. but perhaps that’s because the holes are OEM punched holes so look neat.

[Paul Burridge]

Based on the gluey witness marks right along the length of mine, I concluded that the long central strip went on first. There is an overlap at both ends and the vinyl tabs of the ears sit over the strip. I glued my ear flaps, and then glued the strip of carpet over the whole lot.

The strip is purely decorative: it doesn’t act as a hinge as the metal roll hinge does that. it simply bends/ folds so that it doesn’t prevent the hinge from working. But yes – I can see that the ears would! But how often do you expect to lift the tank lid?

My carpets are the original Citroen things and the piece on the front of the tank box is bound along it’s top edge (though that is barely visible under the overhanging tank box hinge and the vinyl piece discussed above). the bottom edge is raw and there are witness marks where the carpet clips have fitted. There was no sound deadening material behind it. i should add though, that the carpet is slightly over-long: its short sides/ ends wrap forward (about 5cm?) behind the sill carpet vertical edges, so there are no visible gaps.

Yes, my OEM central carpet is finished along the sill edge. this morning I’ve fitted my seat runners/ bases and so covered up the holes in my carpet. They`re oval and match with oval metal ‘feet’ on the bottoms of the runners. Ultimately of course, your seat runners will cover any holes so they don’t need to be too neat. On my car, the black vinyl/ hardura material is glued on TOP of the carpet. It’s very neat and the edge of the hardura is buried in the carpet weave so there is not ‘step’ in layers.

As you might know, the OEM bulkhead carpet is sewn inside out it seems, as there are no, erm, visible side seams…..And as such, there is only a short strip of edging across the top, open end of the pocket.

So who made your carpet? Please don’t say Coverdale 🙂

I’m off to try and refit my seats. the foam inside has dried and died so i will have piles and piles of orange dust on my carpets before the weekend is out.

[Author]

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