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19th January 2025 at 1:24 pm in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10500
here is a ‘WeTransfer’ link to some more photos showing the brake pipe routing (although i also have photos showing minor variations).
Grab these while you can. The link will die in 3 or 4 days time.
19th January 2025 at 12:20 pm in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10499From previous posts it looks as though you describe your car as being the same as mine – a 1968 DS21 bvh (hydraulic gearbox). my only query is that in a previous post you say you have a ‘DY’ engine, which would have started life as 1985cc. Anyway, let me assume your car is a 1968 BVH car….
This first diagram here shows how the pipes fit the calipers on a
- bvh
car.
The pipe that goes from the LHS caliper to the accelerated idling control is fixed to the side of the engine – where the pressure regulator is, and at several other points along the way.
the pipe that goes to the centrifugal regulator goes over the bell housing and then straight up the bracket between HP pump and centrifugal regulator.
At their caliper ends, both pipes are fixed to the top of their respective calipers, then loop AROUND the outside of the parking brake mechanisms before continuing their journeys. I could maybe provide photos of these routes.
The second image here is from a later parts catalogue. caliper connections are the same. the only difference is in the routing and splitting leading to the calipers.
19th January 2025 at 9:11 am in reply to: On Line Restoration of Paul’s ’68 Pallas – some help please ? #10498Thank you for your very, VERY kind words. The blog was started partly because it provided a use for the many reference photos i was taking. but the main reason was to try to encourage others to get stuck in and keep these lovely old cars going of course.
Brake pipes….There were different configurations of piping for bvh cars and manual cars. On a bvh car, the right front brake is bled up on the centrifugal regulator and the left brake is bled up by the carburettor(!) That affects how the pipes are connected to the brake calibers. I have photos for my 68 car, but I also have a couple of pictures of how they are fitted and will dig them out after i’ve walked the dog!
What is your car Michael? bvh or manual gear change?
I suspect the green colour was to clearly distinguish it from the previous red LHS. For the first couple of years after switching to LHM, new cars had a BIG label on the (green) reservoir to remind owners/ garages to top up with LHM and not LHS.
The only true ‘LHM’ you will buy now is vintage/ old stock. Some time ago it was improved and re-titled LHM+. It’s absolutely 100% fine for cars that use/ need LHM. I’m sure Wiki will tell us what the difference between the two is. i think it’s something to improved operating temperature range? maybe not.
It’s possible that the many, many rebelled brands of ‘LHM+’ are coming from just a few (or even one?) source. i would not worry too much about slight variations in colour, as long as the bottle comes from a reputable source/ is a brand name you know. if it’s in a squeeze bottle with a fairy on it – save it for your dishes 🙂
Sacha has a very good reputation – as does Jamie.
00FG 0640 relates to a Ds23 efi built for the 1973 model year (so some time between September 72 and july 73).
The numbers allocated for DS23 efi’s that year go from 0001 to 4921, so 4920 vehicles. The factory was open for 11 months so 4920 is about 450 a month? So if your car is ‘0640’ a guess would say it was built early in the model/ sales year – late 1972?? That’s a bit of a guess….
From the number alone, you can’t tell if it was built as a 4 speed bvh or five speed manual. But the ‘FG’ supports the idea of it originally being a Ds23 efi. Did you also find that number stamped on the lip of the engine bay as per previous photo? You sometimes find people swap car identities by screwing different plates off another car up by the wiper, so the numbers don’t match.
It’s no secret. You can find all the numbers here: https://www.hd19.net/technique/numeros_de_serie/numero_serie_presentation.htm
The other plate (that looks like the photo here) confirms it was a 23 efi bvh as it says “0057”. In contrast, in the photo here, “0058” means it’s still a DS23 efi – but a manual gearchange.
The round disc with AC527AS is the paint code. The ‘AC527’ part is the colour. In your case it’s ‘vert Argente’ which is a metallic green. Again, metallic colours tended to be reserved for the top of the range cars – so also fits in with the car being a DS23 efi bvh.
The ‘AS’ on that disc is the manufacturer/ supplier of the paint. AS stands for a company called ‘Astral’ who were/ are based in Levallos.
Hi
So it sounds as though this car was one of harry martens 5 speed bvh conversions – would that be right.being a late model DS, you should have:
A small ‘S.A.A Citroen’ plate riveted near the wiper motor that has the chassis number and the ‘series’ of the car (FG for example). (I believe ‘FG’ is the code for a 23 efi car)
Whatever that series is, it will be included in the chassis number – which for a car of your age will be something like’0X FG XXXX’.
That SAME chassis number should be stamped in the lip, just above the wiper motor. Peel back the rubber edge and you should see it stamped there. (see the photo below)
There should be another, longer, thinner ‘S.A.A Citroen’ plate (or maybe just an orange sticker?) just below the first one. That one will have/ should have a number beginning something like 0057 (0057 is, i believe the code for a 23 efi bvh).
Anyway, check that the chassis number on the plate is the same as the one stamped on the chassis, and then maybe come back here and tell us what that numbers/ those numbers are. Also tell us what number is stamped on your other plate.
We can then look those numbers up for you.
Thanks Paul I hoped you would come back with a explanation and yes the Earth wire makes perfect sense 👍
Peter I agree you need all the light you can get but I have been driving around the last two years with yellow headlight bulbs and relying on the directional high beams on country lanes so pretty use to the candle light effect, I also rarely use the car at night mainly summer driving.
Thankyou both for your invaluable info.
Happy New Year.Thank you, but I defer to Peter on matters of wiring. He makes his looms from scratch. He has shares in a relay factory and fits them all over the place. Even his relays have relays 🙂
A bit off topic, but i read something somewhere that suggested the dim, flickering lights is due to a poor or inconsistent 12V feed to the ‘Bob’ terminal of the voltage regulator.
I’ve committed to fitting a headlamp relay to try to improve lamp brightness but I might either (a) repurpose that as a relay for a 12v supply to the ‘Bob’ terminal or (b) fit a further relay so that i have two direct supplies from the battery – one to avoid power going through the light switch and one to power the bob.
On the standard lights, one of the three wires is just a shared earth for the two other wires/ filaments. The earth wires are the ones with the brown tags on the ends.
The earth wire from the lights that goes into the wing loom, simply comes out of the loom again very close by. There are short wires fixed to the chassis (where the horns are on the LH side, and to the cross bar that holds the cranking handle on the RH side). Those are the earth cable that plug back into the wing looms.
For your Marchals, i would suspect that all you need to do is connect the two earths of the two bulbs together behind the light unit and then back to that one earth wire of the loom. Or run a second short length of earth from one of your Marchal bulbs to the same bolting point up by the horns.
David is right. You need to get the pod out to get the lights out. And the pods come out from within the wing.
Richard
I’ve just stumbled across a Facebook group that can probably advise. it’s called the ‘G Section & Ami citroen car Club’. Are you aware of it?
Mangled message above – sorry. the last time a message was posted on the forum on the website here was 2 years ago…. try the email or phone number i gave. You should get a quicker response than that!
Congratulations Richard. Lvely vehicle i’m sure…
You *might* get an answer here – but this is the DS forum. the better forum to ask on would be “2&3 Horse topics’. You can find that in the list in ‘members area at the top of the page. best thing is to contact the person that looks after the ‘a Series’ section of the Club magazine:
07787 511877
I think these will reach either Richard Morris or Lucy Cutler
Unfortunately the last time a message was posted there was…..almst 2 years ago!!!!! Post something there anyway and it might prompt a response. I’m DS through-and-through but I wondered whether the Ami handle wasn’t similar to the set up on a 2CV???
petrol: My DS has a little tube coming from the inlet manifold so that any unused fuel is carried safely away from the engine. perhaps your car is set up too rich, has the carb float set at the wrong height, or simply has a cracked/ worn fuel line. i would deal with that asap as even petrol fumes care explosive.
Hi David
My dash is a little different to yours but i think the mechanics and principles are the same. The two louvred side vents are cold air only. You can’t really see the mechanism that distributes warm air – other than the two slots on the dash below the screen.
there is a box behind the dash that distributes warm air. other than up to the screen, warm air can be directed down to the LHS footwell. there is also a card tube through the LH sill that then carries it to the rear cabin. there is also a card tube running across behind the dash that carries warmed air to the RH footwell.
If you are not getting much heat:
Check in the engine bay that the cable that controls the valve on top of the heater really does open/ close that valve fully. maybe it only partially works or is dosconnected.
Still under the bonnet, pull out the card tube that goes into the heater fan box. make sure there are no obstructions along it’s length – particularly up at the heater end. look for leaves and/ or a mouse nest!
Your heater matrix could be blocked. You can remove the vale and check that for a blockage. Remove the heater matrix and flush water through it.
Those heater valves are plastic and very delicate. Be careful removing and replacing it – especially if you pull off the rubber hose.Also be aware that there is a rubber ‘O’ ring in a recess in the base. Don’t lose that or it will leak from the join when put back.
You can buy replacement valve units (though I hear mixed reports of quality/ longevity). You can buy replacement hater matrices or pay a local radiator place to clean out the one you have.
here are the heater instructions for a later car from an owners manual.
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