Paul Burridge

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  • in reply to: Three more sleeps #11104

    Getting my sh1t ready for the rally. Forecast for tomorrow is a bit like today: odd showers plus spells of sunshine. Should be dry late afternoon today so that’s good for getting a tent up. Sunday forecast has improved and now forecast to be dry all day.

    See you there!

    in reply to: Crankcase Ventilation Characteristics #11101

    Yes. there is a gearbox vent and yes it is usually a (brass?) slotted screw. It’s underneath the steering rack gaiter.

    in reply to: Crankcase Ventilation Characteristics #11098

    I can report however, that although the engine had only been running for 10 or so minutes, there was “smoke” coming OUT of the darlek

    Isn’t that as expected? It’s a ‘breather’. I understood that it was to allow bypass gases to escape from the rocker cover and into the air filter/ carb. If the dalek was an air inlet, where is that air meant to go? The rocker cover is sealed and rather than pump in air to wash anything out, you need to let built up gases escape. I think the thing you are calling a flame arrestor inside the dalek may do that but I thought it’s purpose was to filter out oil particles so that only gas left the rocker cover – any oil drips being returned into the rocker cover and back down to the sump.

    in reply to: Self Levelling Headlamp Mechanism #11095

    Nope. No springs at the ends.

    Firstly, some cars don’t have dipping headlights – but they are few and far between. if your car has all the other light dipping parts then i assume they were fitted and working at some previous point.

    Have you looked at the parts manual? part 8 in this drawing is the spring that does the work. You say the adjusters (which are quite long BTW) don’t even contact the light units? Maybe your baseline ‘normal driving’ position is set up wrong in terms of the nylon adjusters and the two wires to the front and rear torsion bars Are you sure those wires are free to move? there is a damper on the RHS wing. Is that correctly adjusted? Are the headlight units correctly engaged on the ball joints of the light housings?

    in reply to: Three more sleeps #11092

    Looking forward to it guys. Forecast is for a bit of rain but we’ve had that before, copied with bouts of glorious warm sunshine. I’m sure we’ll cope.

    in reply to: Fuel filter, but what else? #11091

    I might be wrong, but I don’t think efi cars have the stacked filter at the bottom of the fuel pick up pipe. i think they rely on the filter in the fuel pump. however one of the photos of acute open efi tank in the link below, does show a filter in the bolt.

    One of the bolts (the big brass one at the bottom of the fuel pick up hose) is prone to get stuck and round off. It screws into a captive nut in the tank. If the tank is rusty and you force that plug, the nut breaks free in its cage and merrily rotates with your seized plug. use lots of penetrating fluid (but no heat or flames!) to try to loosen it.

    Yes, you will need to tip the tank up to extricate its neck from the tunnel. With all other fixings off and ready to go, I would just tape up the end hole of the neck with duct tape and get the tank out quickly. there should be minimal leakage. An empty tank is hard to manoeuvre. A part-filled tank will be even worse, with the weight sloshing around inside. Try and fund an unglamorous assistant to assist.

    here are some photos that show the insides of tanks.

    https://we.tl/t-bFrQl6t7xD

    in reply to: Fuel filter, but what else? #11084

    Remove, flush and inspect. THEN replace 🙂

    This is how i went about removing the tank…..

    https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2020/05/fuel-tank-removal.html

    And (for when you get there) here is the refitting. Mines a carburettor car so tank is a little different to yours.

    https://ds-restoration.blogspot.com/2024/09/painting-and-refitting-fuel-tank.html

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11061

    I’m pleased to leave those questions for the rear arm boys!

    Replacing the front hub bearings – special tools

    If your bearings are worn (not very likely btw) it’s MUCH simpler to find other second hand bearings rather than change yours. The first thing you’ll need to buy is a 4 x 4 with a heavy diesel engine……

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11059

    Yes – you can use a 32207 race as an ‘052’.

    Yes – a 32206 is a very, very close equivalent (the modern equivalent) of what Citroen labelled as their ’49 U’. Yes, a 32206 is a bit thinner but it’s not going to alter fit or function.

    Yes – you are going to spend a lot of money on bearings 🙂

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11053

    Hi. Yes front arms need the 051U bearing AND the 052 race. I managed to buy three NOS races, and just used the race from a modern 32207 bearing as the fourth.

    I bought some extra 051s for the rear arms while i could. Sounds like you are considering the same for the front. Unless they start making them again, prices are only going to go up.

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11041

    Bearings….

    On the front arms, Citroen part ZC 9620 049U is two pieces – a bearing and it’s race/ cone. Both pieces are used in the arm. This/ these can be replaced with a modern 32206 which is a near-equivalent and is two pieces – bearing and race. The only difference is that the bearing part is 21.25mm deep/ thick rather than 21.5mm deep. All this means, is that the nut on the arm needs to be done up a little tighter.

    Looking at the parts of the rear arms, Citroen part ZC 9620 053 U is just a bearing – no race. A race is not needed because (as you say) the contour of the arm sleeve fulfils that function.

    I’m speculating but perhaps Citroen used two part numbers for front and rear arms because one part included the race and the other did not. From what we’ve both been saying, it looks as the bearing part is probably the same in both cases. The originals may well have been marked ‘32206’. A modern 32206 is slightly thinner that the bearing used on the front arm and so i’m going to assume is also slightly thinner than the original bearing used on the rear arm. because these are the ‘outer’ bearings – closer to the nut, then all one has to do is tighten the nut fractionally more to compensate for the thinner bearing.

    Citroen 051s don’t seem to have a modern equivalent. Originals are pretty easy to find but have high prices – currently about £60 each. they can be found much cheaper.

    The REALLY scarce bearing is the 115 U. they are hard to find and – if you do – are expensive. Prices are several hundred £. These are needed for the front arms, but not the rear.

    Adjusters. I can part visualise what you propose. i’m looking forward to seeing what you can come up with.

    Chrome trim across back of roof edge. Yes. that has VERY nasty clips. You remove the trim leaving the clips in situ: to remove, unhook the bottom edge from the lip of the clips and rotate it up. To refit, first engage the top edge over the top of the clips then rotate it down and under the lip. careful. it’s sharp.


    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11039

    Right. Found a 32207 and (probably because i found them cheap) it turns out i’d also speculatively bought a couple of Citroen ‘051s’ for when i tackle my rear arms. As suspected, it’s the inner diameters that are different: the modern, available, 32207 bearing has a liner causing the inner diameter to be parallel, whereas the Citroen bearing for arms needs tapered sides.

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11038

    Okay. Dug around in the workshop….couldn’t find the boxed bearings i thought i had, but found old grey bearings

    These are front arm parts of course:

    small tapered bearing (Citroen ZC 9629 049 U) is marked ‘32206’. No surprises there as i already knew that a modern 32206 is a near equivalent replament.

    Large tapered bearing. on the front arms (Citroen part ZC 9620 051 U). This has a separate outer ‘cone’ that the rollers fit in to. the cone is marked 32207. Again, no surprises. i knew that the cone of a modern 32207 can be used as a replacement. The big roller that fits inside the cone is not marked at all. that might be because they were originally sold as a pair with the cone.

    I think the roller part of a modern 32207 may have an inner part so that the inner channel has parallel sides. For DS uses, the rollers contact angled sides on the axle/ arm – so perhaps that is why the other half of a modern 32207 can’t be used? For rear arms i don’t think you use an outer cone and don’t want an inner with parallel sides – so no part of a 32207 set is of use.

    i might have half a modern 32207 somewhere to check this assumption but can’t find it. If you want to avoid cost (and uncertainty!), your decision to re-use the old bearings is probably the right one. Just make sure you re-pack them thoroughly with grease.

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11036

    I’ll have to look at one of the old bearings i took off my front arms and see what they are marked. i doubt they`re stamped with Citroen’s part number. it would be particularly interesting to dig out the removed bearing that was doing the job of ZC 9620 049U and see if it’s marked 32206 or not.

    I can only really talk from the perspective of the front arms but the ‘051’ bearing that you’re shop couldn’t turn up is common with the front arms: it’s not about being nerdy enough. Others before you (me included) have tried to find a modern, cheap, exact fit and it’s simply not available at the moment. That’s why the price for old Citoroen ones is so high. It’s the same for front arm part ZC 9620 115U. these have all the appearance of being a ‘standard’ bearing but are ridiculously hard to find and expensive. £00s.

    I said that a 32206 is a near replacement for a 049 U. the difference is that the old Citroen bearing is 21.5mm thick, the modern equivalent is 21.25mm thick.

    Citroen Andre has shut his website down. last time i looked i couldn’t even access it. i think that’s a big mistake. i only found out by chance and i’ve no idea how to try to buy parts from him these days. All i’ve found is a facebook group. he says he doesn’t monitor facebook messenger messages and i’m not leaving public messages on his facebook page asking about parts. maybe he doesn’t care about small parts orders and the bulk of his business is chaperon restorations. Who knows. Anyway – he was selling the 051 U bearings at a high price. I’ve seem them for sale at £60+. i bought mine on Ebay for 20 euros.

    I don’t know if some arms were painted black, but i have plenty of photos of original arms where they were green. if you have traces of green – I’d say go with that. I’ll be painting mine green.

    I’m going to dig out so old bearings and see how they are marked. No – i don’t know why I’d have kept them either!

    in reply to: Rear Axle Removal #11034

    Good work.

    I think you can buy newly made complete rear cylinders, but my only knowledge of these is of someone that bought them and found that one leaked (I think?).

    I’m surprised that you’ve been told a 32206 bearing fits. i only say that because when i did the front arms, I had a 32206 down as a near-enough replacement for a Citroen ZC 9620 049U, and the 049U is not used on the rear suspension. Maybe a 32206 is a near match for the bearing on the front arms but an exact match for the bearing on the rear arms?

    My cams are very stiff and i did what peter said: applied WD40 and gave them the occasional wiggle over many months/ years. they have loosened a lot but i still worry they will fail or seize again. for that reason I was hoping to order a couple of replacement adjuster cam sets from Citroen Classics – to be picked up at the D rally – but they are out of stock. I think the way the originals work is that the cam hole has a flat side that marries to a flat side on that hex bolt. The replacements have splined adjuster bolts i think, plus matching splines are a close fit. A small bolt holds the cam on the adjuster bolt.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,053 total)