Paul Burridge

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  • in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10763

    A wrapped wheel looks lovely. Did you have to warp it with double-sided tape first or anything like that?

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10753

    i bought a banjo from someone in the UK. it looked as though it had been re-zinc plated. Blew through it. Blocked solid. Glad i didn’t fit it to the car…..

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10751

    Hello, although the oil pressure warning light comes on at rest and goes off at 1000 revs, it comes on at tickover. On my saloon the pressure never drops that low.
    Something is wrong.
    I shall check the switch but I expect the engine will have to come out, again.

    based on your experiences, i thought i’d better check the oil pressure on my car. My dashboard isn’t in and wired up yet, so i rigged up a 12v supply to my oil pressure sensor. and wished i hadn’t! the bulb tests out okay, but with an earth lead connected to the chassis i am getting no current (bulb lighting) from/ through the sensor wire at all.

    If I touch my 12v supply to the big hex screw thread of the sensor, it lights but that’s just like earthing to elsewhere on the chassis and bypassing the sensor. At least it means that there problem isn’t PTFE tape on those threads isolating the sensor.

    If I touch my 12v supply to the small hex screw on the end (that the sensor wire connects to) my bulb doesn’t light. That means it’s not the lead that’s at fault.

    The problem must be within the sensor – not closing (completing the circuit) at zero pressure. It must be permanently open as though there is oil pressure. Looks as though i will have to wrestle that sensor out and replace it. i think I’ll be leaving the engine in the car though.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10749

    Before you resort to that, could you try rigging up a gauge to see what the pressures actually are?

    Sure you’ve got enough oil in the sump? Try filling it to the max mark of the stick and then trying.

    Also – if the engine must come out – are there any other significant tests you can do first? Clutch? Gearbox? if it really does have to come out again – make sure it’s only the once!

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10747

    The Dutch DS Tech Team video shows them using two short lengths of hose with a different internal diameters, joined by a reducer in the middle.

    For my car I had an original GS hose with a reinforced end for the pressure regulator. I bought it in 1996(!) and only fitted it a year or so ago. But when i did, i found it isn’t long enough on my car. The GS hose is something like 800mm, but on my car that hose should be 1070mm – so about 20cm difference. I had to join on another short length of 7mm hose using a metal tube insert (rather like a reducer) and a couple of jubilee clips.

    in reply to: Wheel Toe-In Issues #10727

    hat doesn’t sound right Michael.

    For IFHS branded spheres
    ID59FA are standard front spheres
    ID75FA are comfort front spheres

    That ’75’ number is interesting. I’m assuming this is for new welded spheres, but might account for why a pair of rebuilt front split sphere I recently bought had been charged to 75 bar. They were rock hard! No suspension movement at all.

    The shims inside were also incorrect (and different on two spheres!) but changing the shims didn’t fix the problem. The spheres had to be stripped and rebuilt again and re-gassed to 59 bar. But as I say: these were the split types with removable shims so maybe not directly comparable to the welded type.

    in reply to: Road Horns -Setting tone? #10724

    You wouldn’t be the first to replace those gaskets……

    in reply to: Wheel Toe-In Issues #10723

    So with your ‘modified’ track rod parts assembled at their smallest/ shortest possible setting – you still have 25mm toe OUT?

    If – at some past point – the car has walloped into a kerb on a tight corner, that might bend a suspension arm. A bent arm is most likely to affect camber and/ or caster angle, but I’m wondering whether it might also cause difficulties with toe-in and toe-out?

    I’m not trying to worry you – just introduce the possibility of other factors to your thinking if you are having to take drastic action to create toe-in.

    BTW – did you see my latest post re: your BVH stater wand/ interlock issue? i finally got to the bottom of it.

    in reply to: Road Horns -Setting tone? #10718

    Have you tightened that set screw fully in then tried gradually backing it off? I guess you have.

    If you`re sure they are getting 12V, and are sure they are earthed – but are silent (or only ‘squwaking’) then i think the only option is to pull them and dismantle them to find out whey they aren’t responding to the set screw. And yes – you may need/ want to replace the gaskets anyway.

    in reply to: BHV – Safety Starter Circuit #10716

    Well…..I’m amazed! Michael. The reason your starter interlock doesn’t work – is because your car never had it! The diagrams in my earlier post are correct – but not for our cars. I’d always assumed we had it – but was never going to risk trying the starter to find out….

    I dug out my old, VERY tatty 1968 loom. It’s from a Post April 1968 bvh DS21. After April, there was only one relay for the QI lights, before that date there were two. In all other respects it’s a bog standard bvh loom for a 1968 bvh car. Anyway…. I found continuity between the R1 cable from the battery and the end of the cable that connects to the starter contacts operated by the gear wand. that is EXACTLY what Michael was saying.

    I also tested for continuity on my new replacement loom. It was bought from citroen Classics but was made by Christian Fahrig in Germany. That too has continuity from ‘R1’ up at the battery, to the wire at the ignition contacts – same as the old original loom.

    If I look at a 66/67 wiring diagram, the end of the wire at the ignition contacts is even labelled ‘R1’ – so that seems to confirm it.

    The wiring diagram clearly shows that the ignition contacts are earthed simply: through the chassis. in my case, it’s a wire to the common earth point. The wiring doesn’t go anywhere near the voltage regulator.

    So what’s going on? why is there no interlock on our 68s? I’ve scratched my head and vaguely remember that the interlock feature was introduced at some point – it didn’t always exist on bvh cars. It turns out it was introduced in September 1969 – the year after our 1968 cars. The 1969 circuit digram and tables for Op. DX.510-00d clearly show the difference compared to the diagram and tables for our car: instead of an earth to the chassis, a wire (number 5) goes between the ‘L’ terminal of the VR and the second ignition contact up by the gear wand. that is like the earlier diagrams i put up.

    So why is there a second relay in our 1968 VRs? I think that was originally there purely to extinguish the charge light on the dash. It works by removing the earthing route. I suspect that – after 1968 – that feature was utilised to create the interlock – to remove the earth route for the ignition contacts.

    I think the interlock would be handy to have to avoid mistakes. As such i think that – on a 68 car – instead of earthing the starter contacts to the common earth, the earthing wire could be re-routed to the ‘L’ terminal of the VR. Perhaps rather than running a wire all the way to the VR, by running a short wire to the appropriate charge light connection so that when the charge light is extinguished, the starter is also disabled. I think some testing will prove it’s the red wire on the back of this thing. Our circuit diagrams show that wire goes back to the ‘L’ terminal of the VR.

    in reply to: Two years to go, possibly #10714

    You just gotta hope it doesn’t leak 🙂

    in reply to: BHV – Safety Starter Circuit #10710

    My error – I can see that the ‘N2’ wire is to a light relay – not to the contacts of the gear lever. the wire to the contacts (indicated by ‘+’ symbols) isn’t numbered.

    The wire coming from the ‘L’ terminal of the voltage regulator is labelled as ‘R5’ and the table for the wiring diagram says that it goes to the charging light – and nothing else. i suspect that it splits somewhere in the loom (as per the other diagrams in my earlier post) and also provides power via the ‘+’ wire to the contacts of the gear lever. But (if so) why it isn’t numbered i do not know.

    I think what i’m saying is that just because r1 is shown as the wire to a starter button, it doesn’t necessarily follow that – on a bvh car – it’s also ‘R1’ that goes to the contacts operated by the gear lever.

    My car is a 1968 bvh and i have a VERY shabby loom i removed from it. with a bit of effort i might be able to test some wires for continuity and confirm my thinking (or fall suspiciously silent).

    in reply to: BHV – Safety Starter Circuit #10709

    Hi
    If you look at the diagram and tables for a ^* bvh, the table says it’s R1, the drawing says it’s N2…..

    here is the official (simplified) diagram that shows how the starter ‘cut off’ is wired. I think it comes from a French language manual – one of the volumes of manual 583?

    In an original voltage regulator there are TWO relays: one control the charge voltage to the battery, the other disconnects the power to the gear lever starter switch once the engine is running.

    The power to the starter contacts operated by the gear lever comes first from the relay inside the voltage regulator. When the engine is running, that relay is caused to open/ disconnect the power to the contacts (and disconnect the charge light) – so there should be no danger of engaging the starter with the engine running.

    You can see that as the alternator excites the coil through the ‘R’ connection of the voltage regulator, it causes the contact through ‘L’ to break – disconnecting the wire up through the charge light and to the switch (the contacts) on the gear lever.

    here is another, later, diagram of a bvh circuit from manual 814.

    You can see how power first comes from the relay (16) at the top before going onto the gear lever contacts/ switch (32). A brown wire comes down from that witch to the ‘R’ terminal of the voltage regulator (15)

    People sometimes replace the alternator for a modern one that includes a voltage relay – but in doing so they have to live without the starter cut off function.

    What Alternator do you have? Do you still have a voltage relay wired into your circuits and used?

    in reply to: Seems like a bargain ? #10700

    the seller has sold/ is selling a few other things in that same area – so might actually be a real facebook person…..

    Given the caveat of not seeing the floor, chassis, engine, roof or boot. £2000 just might be fair price. Probably not a bargain though. If you wanted to/ felt compelled to, you could spend money on EVERTYTHING on a car like that and £2000 turns into a whole lot more. Everywhere you look could be improved. Torn carpet. Torn seats, rusty dash. Nice steering wheel – but it needs re-wrapping or new tape. All fixable but at a price.

    The crucial areas are not shown. What are the floors like? What are the sills like? Does the engine turn. Wha’s it like in the boot and at the C pillars? What is the roof rail like?

    At it heart, it seems to be a DSpecial – the basic model. Nothing wrong with that. i had an ID19b and still miss it. The engine/ BHP are pretty basic but i have a friend with the same car and he’s happy with it. On the plus side I like the bound steering wheel and the mirror on the dash. Both nice links back to earlier Ds.

    in reply to: Hello from Wiltshire #10694

    Unfortunately that page blows my theory out of the water…

    There are images where the door trim turns and run down the ‘B’ post – either side of the courtesy light. But also images where a bead of trim carries on across the top of the courtesy light and across the top of both doors.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 972 total)