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I have no intention of causing offence here, just making an observation. If you’re concerned about a small repair leaking, surely a much larger one has more potential to leak, plus you’re disturbing the ‘A’ post and door seal channel, dashboard mounting panel etc..? If you’re going to fit that panel it would be a lot easier before you put it all back together.
I’ll remind you about the panel in a few years (probably closer to five) 😉
There’s no problem as the spare panel I have will repair OK, especially as I will be doing it on the bench. I couldn’t see it on the Citrorevanche website but given the variability common in pattern parts I don’t want to risk it. I would say though that unless you are going to do other work (as I am) then that panel is horrible to replace as there’s so much attached to it. My basket case is different 😁
Some thoughts on your situation;
Cut out an area sufficient to include the captive nut, using a hole saw off to one side of it.
Recover the swarf and cut disc (unless you’re lucky enough for it to be retained by the hole saw) using a magnet on a stick and/or a hose taped to the end of a vacuum cleaner.
Make a disc of equivalent diameter and retain it with a magnet while you spot it, then weld it.
Flush off the welds, drill a hole in the right place and fit a rivnut.Or just slot/redrill the bracket 🤷
Had a look tonight. First things first, this is a tab-less epaulette:

I had a look at both ‘slippers’, same problem as you:



I can see some measurements and adjustments will be required.
With regard to the side panel, both ‘A’ posts will have to come off at some point in the future (a loooooong way away) so I can replace the dashboard structure that’s spotted underneath them. The jacking points will be getting changed, the scuttle will be getting changed so there’s only one more row of welds to get the side panels off. By that point I will have built a frame inside the car to preserve the ‘A’ pillar and post alignment. But that’s way in the future I’m afraid 😟
If you happen to know anyone with a new LH side panel hanging up in their garage and who would like to sell it at the ‘D’ rally, I’d be open to negotiation – I have a good RH one and the LH one is repairable but a replacement would be better 😁
Yes, that’s the part, there’s no tab on the parts I got. I can see what you mean about the slipper. I ordered two new ones, I’ll have a look to see what they’re like.
Just an update; I ordered a few parts from Citrorevanche, including the ‘epaulettes’. They’re a plain plate now, no tab of any kind so perhaps this is in response to there being two different types.
I hope Graham isn’t retiring any time soon 😁
Ohhhhh they look nice 👍
There’s a big grey thing poking me with its trunk. It says “sounds like the wiring loom is past it’s best and it might be worth checking the earthing points too”
I can feel a mission creep / partial restoration scenario coming on 🤣
This all seems like a lot of trouble for something you can only use below 40mph 😁
Possibly a translation/transposition error in the earlier manuals. Glad it’s been resolved 👍
If you were able to achieve a 2mm gap with the shape of DS doors being as it is, you wouldn’t be able to open the doors..! Parallel within 2mm sounds more realistic.
The pin punch comment was in reference to the technique of filling the centre of the pin with thick grease after warming the housing then tapping the punch to ‘hydraulic’ the pin out. It was the last option due to the risk of cracking the housing.
Thanks, I had wondered whether the pin was hardened but evidently not. I’ll give that a go and keep the oven & pin punches in reserve.
Just a thought – if the brazing is going to crack anyway, you might save yourself some effort by slitting it before you bend the door?
It’s disappointing to find that expensive new doors don’t fit properly. I was considering these for one or more of my doors so will watch with interest.
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