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Thanks as always Paul, yes that’s the assembly. The large pipe is the lowest one in your photo. I’m still gathering parts for mine in the hope that one day I will retire with enough life left in me to restore it. The pipes on mine are past their best, I saw a set on eBay but they’re all the same size – no large pipe.
So I contacted the chap, he bought them for his car but ended up getting the correct ones from Australia. His car is a ’67 manual with no power steering, mine’s a 67 BVH with power steering. I can only think it’s a later car thing.
I’m not really up to tracing pipework at present (lifting the bonnet was enough for me!) so can’t help there, sorry.
I can’t imagine many people will have this pipework and I also can’t imagine it’s easy to re-pipe one of the flange plates!Sorry, no, health still playing me up. Hope it goes well though.
Oh, and don’t bother trying to reuse the liner as it is. It’s probably bore wear that caused the rings to break in the first place.
Peter will be along soon with his liner removal advice, I’ve seen it on another thread. You might not like it 🤣
Not sure I got the last post right, try this one:
I was partly right, it was just the lower sections with the cutouts for the jacking points:
https://i.ibb.co/vC2HyWB6/20260617-145725-2.jpgIIRC the sill outer plates were plain on earlier cars but were changed for square patterned ones on later cars. Mine are plain and mine’s a 1969 UK car. I think the information about it is in the John Reynolds book somewhere, if I remember later I’ll have a look.
Dennis mentioned a bellhousing modification so may be mounting either the compressor or alternator somewhere down there. He was quite cagey though.
Was speaking to Dennis from Centreville a while back, he said he was designing an AC kit for the DS and it was near completion for commercial release. Haven’t heard anything since though.
It’s calibrated. If you need more off the middle you use it ‘as is’. More off the ends? Turn it round. Sorted 😁
So, as this thread is about rusty doors; what’s the general consensus for someone whose car has crusty doors; repair / reskin or get pattern parts?
Haven’t used them but a firm like this could be useful: https://absolutereflections.co.uk/
You could go proper bodge – weld a small M5 stud to the slipper in the right place, put a nut on, grind them both flat at the top then paint it.
Peter does brute force, I just bodge 🤣
I’m sure it’s possible but you have to ask whether it’s commercially viable, given how few people will ever change this panel? I think it’s fair to say most people will let sections in, like you did. As we’ve both noted, it’s a pig to change (even removing one from my scrap front end is an ordeal).
The photo is deceptive, there is a plate over the top of the aperture in the scuttle, the bracket is spotted on to the underside of the plate with very convincing spot welds.
It can only be a stiffening plate, taking the load path further away from the handbrake lever.
As for why?
Possible hypotheses are:-
more force being put through the lever due to people who are right-handed, or
more force going through the structure due to the wiper motor being that side, or
finding distortion/cracking in that area on the early cars necessitating reinforcement.
Good luck Mr Holmes! -
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