[John Montgomery]

There’s no problem as the spare panel I have will repair OK, especially as I will be doing it on the bench. I couldn’t see it on the Citrorevanche website but given the variability common in pattern parts I don’t want to risk it. I would say though that unless you are going to do other work (as I am) then that panel is horrible to replace as there’s so much attached to it. My basket case is different 😁

Some thoughts on your situation;
Cut out an area sufficient to include the captive nut, using a hole saw off to one side of it.
Recover the swarf and cut disc (unless you’re lucky enough for it to be retained by the hole saw) using a magnet on a stick and/or a hose taped to the end of a vacuum cleaner.
Make a disc of equivalent diameter and retain it with a magnet while you spot it, then weld it.
Flush off the welds, drill a hole in the right place and fit a rivnut.

Or just slot/redrill the bracket 🤷

[John Montgomery]

Had a look tonight. First things first, this is a tab-less epaulette:

I had a look at both ‘slippers’, same problem as you:

I can see some measurements and adjustments will be required.

With regard to the side panel, both ‘A’ posts will have to come off at some point in the future (a loooooong way away) so I can replace the dashboard structure that’s spotted underneath them. The jacking points will be getting changed, the scuttle will be getting changed so there’s only one more row of welds to get the side panels off. By that point I will have built a frame inside the car to preserve the ‘A’ pillar and post alignment. But that’s way in the future I’m afraid 😟

If you happen to know anyone with a new LH side panel hanging up in their garage and who would like to sell it at the ‘D’ rally, I’d be open to negotiation – I have a good RH one and the LH one is repairable but a replacement would be better 😁

[John Montgomery]

Yes, that’s the part, there’s no tab on the parts I got. I can see what you mean about the slipper. I ordered two new ones, I’ll have a look to see what they’re like.

[John Montgomery]

Just an update; I ordered a few parts from Citrorevanche, including the ‘epaulettes’. They’re a plain plate now, no tab of any kind so perhaps this is in response to there being two different types.

[John Montgomery]

I hope Graham isn’t retiring any time soon 😁

[John Montgomery]

Ohhhhh they look nice 👍

[John Montgomery]

There’s a big grey thing poking me with its trunk. It says “sounds like the wiring loom is past it’s best and it might be worth checking the earthing points too”

I can feel a mission creep / partial restoration scenario coming on 🤣

[John Montgomery]

This all seems like a lot of trouble for something you can only use below 40mph 😁

[John Montgomery]

Possibly a translation/transposition error in the earlier manuals. Glad it’s been resolved 👍

[John Montgomery]

If you were able to achieve a 2mm gap with the shape of DS doors being as it is, you wouldn’t be able to open the doors..! Parallel within 2mm sounds more realistic.

[John Montgomery]

The pin punch comment was in reference to the technique of filling the centre of the pin with thick grease after warming the housing then tapping the punch to ‘hydraulic’ the pin out. It was the last option due to the risk of cracking the housing.

[John Montgomery]

Thanks, I had wondered whether the pin was hardened but evidently not. I’ll give that a go and keep the oven & pin punches in reserve.

[John Montgomery]

Just a thought – if the brazing is going to crack anyway, you might save yourself some effort by slitting it before you bend the door?

[John Montgomery]

It’s disappointing to find that expensive new doors don’t fit properly. I was considering these for one or more of my doors so will watch with interest.

[John Montgomery]

Good luck finding a definitive guide on how much material can be removed, if Paul can’t find it! I can only advise from experience from my younger years with CX and XM engines and various British engines belonging to work colleagues. Engines of this era are low-compression (8.7:1-ish I think) by modern standards (10-12:1, more in some cases) and will tolerate a small loss of face material. If you have problems with pinking or hot running then retard the ignition timing very slightly. A rule of thumb for skimming used to be 0.010″/0.25mm and this could be done twice, after that it was inadvisable. The valve seats are far enough up in the combustion chamber that they’re unaffected by skimming (some engines drop their valve seats when skimmed too much). The effect on valve timing/valve clearances is negligible. If it’s a first skim then you should be fine with a standard gasket. The pitting is a concern due to where it is, but not as much as you might think. Clean the area up as much as possible before fitting the gasket. The idea is to fill the pits with a suitable material which will then act as a thicker part of the gasket. That part of the gasket is metal so you could fill the pits with high temperature metal/epoxy paste (e.g. Quiksteel or JB Weld extreme heat) to achieve a smoother surface than the pitting. It’s only got to last until the gasket has bedded in (I’d recommend checking the torque of the head bolts again once the engine’s had a few hours running fully warmed up). It might sound like a bodge but things were different 50 years ago and most of the DS was thrown together at the factory (hydraulics aside). The engine design is very, very old and is low-stressed. It’s why they keep on going if the oil is changed regularly and the cooling system maintained.
All of the above is opinion only but hopefully some of it will help.

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