Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
If you’re worried about PTFE getting into the block then I’d suggest using either liquid PTFE or gas tape (yellow roll). The gas tape is a lot thicker than ordinary PTFE so you need less of it and it doesn’t strand off like the normal stuff. It stays together better when you remove it too. Just don’t use too much though.
Are CX / C35 etc pressure switches compatible? Should widen your field of availability if they are. That block has been used in many applications.
That’s shockingly bad. Looks like either poor quality material or they didn’t machine a radius where the thread joins the body and it’s just sheared. Either way it’s a poor show!
Oh dear, I’ll send you a refund 😁 In fairness, that switch has probably been sitting around for who knows how long so the diaphragm is objecting to being moved. Hope you get it sorted, new has got to be the way forward 👍
I’ve answered my own question. I had a brochure on my wall many, many years ago and when I first got my pile of rust I bought another one the same. I dug it out and there’s a picture of the dash. Definitely black: https://i.ibb.co/5XHj5BXC/20261101-181646.jpg
Also, random question, is the painted portion of the dashboard meant to be dark grey or black? Mine’s probably going to be black but I’ve never known the answer.
Being serious for a moment, that’s got to be some kind of detent or locking mechanism within the ignition switch.
Has anyone tried it to see if it works?
I’m sure I’ve had a car in the past that did this, can’t remember what it was though. Wasn’t a D.
Well if you don’t know, the rest of us aren’t likely to 🤣
Very nice too, I will do the same to mine (in about five years 😁).
Seems a bit superfluous in a way, hopefully you’d notice the lack of steering assistance and ride comfort and go ‘hang on, I think there’s a problem’…
You said you weren’t going for concours…you must resist. Don’t do it, put the carpet and cover back down.
It’s just more things to remove when it drifts out of calibration again 😁
Good enough is good enough, 60 bar should be ample to get the car stopped should the worst happen.
Always thought there should be an interlocked alarm on these so that (for example) the light coming on once a gear has been selected would provide audible warning of a failure.
We’ve got used to ‘bongs’ for lights-on, handbrake etc but I’d suggest that main hydraulic failure would be something it would be handy to be aware of…
Thanks, I’ve done this with a small freezer in my shed, it’s probably the best option in reality. Might still run some oil round the inside to get into the seams anyway. Thanks for all the suggestions 👍
Probably not, but repro stuff tends not to be as good as original so I’m taking no chances!
I should just say, the tank will be sitting in my garage loft (insulated but unheated) for a few years so it would seem wise to help it as much as possible. Was even toying with the idea of running Argon/CO2 mix through it before sealing it, to reduce the oxygen content.
-
AuthorPosts
