John Montgomery

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  • in reply to: BHV – Techniques for Hill Starting #10913

    Also meant to say – removing the breather hose can also cause crankcase pressure to increase, which may exaggerate leaks. Right, someone else’s turn now 😁

    in reply to: BHV – Techniques for Hill Starting #10912

    Meant to say – if the engine is breathing excessively then consider routing the hose to a catch tank but this would require frequent emptying (and there aren’t exactly many places to put one in a D engine bay). If you do this, don’t forget to plug the hole in the air filter.
    PS if there was a huge difference when you removed the breather hose then your air filter may be in need of cleaning (or replacing with a paper element, as Peter has done).

    in reply to: BHV – Techniques for Hill Starting #10911

    Did you leave the breather hose disconnected? If so, that’s where it’s probably coming from.

    in reply to: BHV – Techniques for Hill Starting #10907

    My money’s on a warped carburettor base, that would go some way to explaining the counterintuitive tickover adjustment and lack of power. I’m assuming the usual suspects such as ignition timing and valve clearances have been checked. The real experts (Peter and Paul) will hopefully be along soon with more educated advice.

    in reply to: 170 miles to go #10891

    John Montgomery wrote:

    “then you can have one of the ones in my shed, I’ve got a couple of seized engines in there to be dismantled at some point.”

    Off topic John, but if you have an oil pressure switch (or two?) on the side of the block, i’ll buy it/ them from you. I’ve been waiting a month for an eBay one to arrive and have finally given in and gotten a refund.

    You’re welcome to one Paul but neither one is particularly pretty so you’d have to do a bit of restoration. If you want it to look like the rest of your shiny engine you might be better off speaking to Darrin for a new one. If you still want it I’ll bring it to the D rally.

    in reply to: 170 miles to go #10884

    I don’t know if this question has been answered in the past but if the rivets are prone to chattering then failing, is it possible to drill them out and fit suitable close-tolerance bolts instead?

    Also, if you’re going to dismantle the pulley and would like one with rusty belt tracks (to make one good one out of two) then you can have one of the ones in my shed, I’ve got a couple of seized engines in there to be dismantled at some point.

    in reply to: New thottle cable #10875

    Throttle cable?

    in reply to: New thottle cable #10870

    If you’re stuck you could get someone like Venhill to remanufacture one. Paul Burridge will no doubt be able to guide you in the right direction regarding fitting, he knows the manuals inside out 👍

    in reply to: Building up thin metal #10855

    They arrived today and I’m very happy with them – thanks again Paul.

    in reply to: 170 miles to go #10846

    Oh dear, that’s unfortunate. The AA didn’t do better when I used them last year. I’ll be interested to hear what you suggest as an improvement to the pulley, I remember hearing about a similar occurrence a few years back but that caused more damage IIRC.

    in reply to: Building up thin metal #10843

    Thanks Peter.

    in reply to: Building up thin metal #10841
    in reply to: Building up thin metal #10840

    Exactly the same, Paul sent me photos. Very pleased 👍

    in reply to: Building up thin metal #10837

    I’m pleased to report that American Paul has sent me two brackets with apparently minimal rust on, so that’s a great way forward. Thanks for your help.

    in reply to: Maybe not quite two years to go #10836

    Hope you went full American and linked a ‘bing, bing, bing’ alarm into it 😉

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)