[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
Many thanks from replying to my post so quickly.
I removed the old loom including the fuse board’s about 8 months ago there had been joins by other owners of the car. I have a slim long ignition key with the original ignition loom. I presumed that because I had converted the car to a semi-auto. The two fuse boards has been removed due to joins and meddling by previous owners. So I therefor need the two fuse boards in the car. What about the two or three large crimped cables coming from the battery.
When I fitted the semi-auto box I did not change the starter motor with the relay, so what I have done is bolted a 2 pin solenoid on the chassis to the right of the battery, so I have one + cable coming from the battery to the solenoid the other solenoid connector goes to the starter motor and starter solenoid cables.
So I need a new just ignition switch. As the stick cables are both negative cables. So one negative cable goes to the solenoid the other cable just goes to ground, so when the stick is operated the earth connection is made to the starter motor via the solenoid. Someone told me that I need a simple ignition switch and key just to apply the power to the system.
Regards,
John Moore

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
I am sorry to be difficult but the picture of the cross section of my roof is nothing resembling your picture.
Mine is just a 64mm wide shaped channel and a 10mm upstand on each edge, there are roughly 4 on each side then one for where the front windscreen pillars are, then 3 across the top of the front windscreen strip.
The holes in the channel have extra support plates with a m9 hole on one side of the plate which is welded to the roof support. It looks nothing like the cross section in the picture you sent me it is just a shaped 64mm shaped channel all the way around the roof. When I took the roof of I just used a wire attached to two pieces of wood like a cheese cutter. there where no bolts holding the roof down other than the mastic. So if I get some S/S nuts and bolts as well as washers or even Brass ones I can the bolt on the roof as well as gluing it on.
There is a steel fabricator down the main road from us so they can grind down the bolt heads for me about 25mm should be long enough or maybe 30mm. What do you recommend for the mastic?

Regards,
John

[John Moore]

Thank you Paul,
You are a wonder on these awkward points.
When I took my roof off it was not bolted down it was just glued down.
I had to remove the roof because the steel lip behind the Stainless steel trim was corroded so I had to replace the metal upstand all around the car roof area. I have noticed that there are points around the roof frame that take the roof plates, where the roof is bolted down I presume that there are special bolts i.e. S/S bolts M9/8 they cannot be long in length because of the window glass catching them. Unless they are semi-domed and with an Allen key M8/9 about 10-12mm in length. I will more than likely fix the headlining first, my cornice is a skeleton frame with spike points that the material is placed over the frame to create a cornice shape, which pushes into the void between the base of the roof frame and the fiberglass roof. I will write to Darrin at CC for guidance on adhesives to use.
Many thanks again,
John in Bucknell. Shropshire

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
My car started out as a 5 speed manual gearbox, But when I bought the car the previous owner had removed the manual gearbox and fitted a semiauto box in it’s place.We hade to collect the car on a low loader.
There where many faults with the car regarding rust on most panels and the roof leaked , but we have had all the rust removed and the panels and doors were rectified by Graham Morton in Derbyshire. The vehicle came back to me and I have had the leather seats and door cards all recovered in Brown Leather. We have been doing many things with regards the electrics which were a bit of a nightmare however because the starter motor was for a manual car I asked Darrin at Citroen classics about the starter stick, he suggested that we fitted a starter solenoid then joined both cables from the original starter motor/relay to one of the connections on the solenoid the other large connection then goes to the positive to thethe earth stud just to the left off the steering columb. Because the original key switch had the two cables that should have gone to the stick switch. My question is what do I do with the two original stick wires on the key switch or do you have a simpler solution. A simple wiring layout is all I need to complete the job in hand, then with the car running I can consentrate on the painting of the car and refitting the roof and stainless steel fittings.
Thanks,
John Moore

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
I have mad a simple mistake.
The yellow cable became detached from the switch about 2 months ago, about 2 weeks later I used a black cable with a yellow tag on the end where there are 5 cables this should have been a yellow cable
There are now Five cables on one side of the switch and two seperate wires on the other side.
My Mistake sorry about all the fuss.
The cable has been rectified and the switch works.
Many thanks,
To all.

John Moore

[John Moore]

Hi Paul,
One thing I know that is missing is the item 10 on Page 5-item 10 541/59 Hook for spring I will try and get one from Darrin Brownhills (Citroen Classics.

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
Thank you for the pictures, the relay base and relay have 5 pin’s relay not a 4 pin.
I could easily remove the relay to the left of the steering columb. If I cut the wires I will just purchas a 4 pin relay base and a new 4 pin relay.
The other thing I have noticed is that with all the cables that have to be joined 3 or 4 cables have to be joined to one main cable, but when I took the the dash off the car I noticed there were no join’s to any cables, so like the cable from the indicator switch which is now faulty and requires a new or second hand one, there were no joins in the cables befor.
Many thanks,
John

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
Many thanks for the layout plan which is unlike mine on site.
For instance I do not have item 41.
Also the tops of fuses 5 & 6 are joined together and go to the mauve cable on the light switch the power feed to the light switch just goes to the light switch (43) only not the relay (33)

The plastic plug that joines the key switch to the power supply I have numbered the cables from a diagram from Citroen that shows the power into as well as the power out of the key. The The enclosed plan ( I would like to send you) shows the power moves as the ignition switch is turned. The power on the yellow cable trom the battery.
That is why the plastic plug is numbered as per the plan with the fuses the yellow cable should be shown below the fuses and not above the fuses, as the key is turned the power from the battery goes to pins 1-in and 3-in on the plan.
Kind regards,
John

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
Can I have your email address to be able to send you a photo of the cables on my headlight relay.

Kind regards,
John

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
This cable is the same as the other yellow cables on the car about 30mm in thick over the outer insulation, the buckle is a genuine Citroen one. The Relay is a 5 pin relay in a 5 pin base. Pin 4 is not used.

When I showed the picture to Darrin Brownhill at Citroen Classics of the headlight relay with the red tag on the yellow cable his remark was that it was not a Citroen item. The relay I have has 5 contacts, number 1 has a green thin cable attached , Pin 2 has a brown cable attached, pin 3 Has the thick yellow cable attached with a red tag, Pin 4 is blank, pin 5 has a black cable with a white tag. On my drawing plan the relay only has 4 connections. Correct me if I am wrong I am assuming Pin 3 = 30 (live in) on a standard car relay, Pin 5 = 87 (outlet to item), Pin 1 = 85 (Pin 2 = 86 Switch power in) Pin 1 ( To earth connection). As the dashboard is out what I am trying to do is sort out spaghetti junction into a straight motorway, I can then tape them up when I have sorted the muddle out and made sure all the cables and fittings work.
If there is a mistake I am sure you will let me know about the above connections.
Kind regards,
John

[John Moore]

Dear Paul, Many thanks for your reply, I do understand the coloured tags on the end of the cables.
Let me start at the beginning.
I have had the dashboard out for many months, whilst doing other things on the car.
The plastic block attached to the key joins the plastic block to the loom I have numbered the plastic block as per the plastic connection plug !-8.
On my car the the top of fuse 5 is not connected to the positive cable from the battery as per the basic 1971 diagram. The top of fuse 5 joins the top of fuse 6.There is also no dash switch to put the internal lights on when parked. As per the plan the live cable from the battery goes to the top of fuse 3 first then onto the top of fuse 2, then a cable goes to a relay (66) for the radiator fan. another cable goes to item 59 horn compressor, then onto 45 (indicator/horn switch, the live cable then goes to the N cable on item 43 (light switch then carry’s on to the item 33 the headlight relay.
On the Ignition switch wiring plug layout there are 8 connections number 1 (supply for switching to 2 which goes to the coil
The yellow cable in my post (I understand about the coloured tags on the end’s of cables) travels across the open dashboard direct from the battery and then splits into 4 cables, two of these cables have female ends and are approximately 300mm in length where these two cables go has got to be a permanent live supply, suggestions please. The other two yellow cables go under the steering column, one of the two yellow cables connects to the headlight relay with a RED tag on the end, the other yellow cables goes to number 1 plug (Live in) on the ignition switch wiring plug.
Another oddment is that some cables from the battery to the fuses, go to the base of the fuses instead of going to the top. I have sent a photo of the yellow cable with the red tag to Darrin at Citroen classics and his response was that he had not seen that before. Looking at the log book I have been told by Nigel Wilde that my car was one of about the last 100 to leave the factory, so a yellow or black cable with a red tag just to show it was a live cable direct from the battery. I do hope you can now understand the above.

[John Moore]

Dear Simon,
I do have 3 with just the domed centre.
If you have the domed version I will send you one for free.
Hope this helps.
John Moore

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
when I purchased this car in 2016, it was in a state of bad maintenance.
So-far we have rectified any rust and blacked out the body shell. wings and doors have been repaired by Graham Morton from Derbyshire.
What we have left is a jungle of cables behind the dashboard some are several meters in length, for instance item 23 the brake light switch which is attached to the brake button in the footwell, on the wiring layout there are two cables, I have 3 cables coming from the brake button, as well as this the cables are twisted around many other cables making it very difficult to trace each cable correctly. There are buckles galore to join thick yellow cables to either black ones or green ones.
So I have decided to remove the steering wheel and its supporting bracket, so as to access the cables under the steering column. I have been trying all morning trying to trace the cables for the R/H front light which disappear under the steering column bracket. I have plenty of bullet connectors, I can then also make a list of where each cable comes and goes, I can even label each cable and check it’s continuity.
Does this seem a bit extreme or are all Citroen Dashboards look like spaghetti junction.
Any idea’s on joining the cables would be helpful.

Regards,John

[John Moore]

The address Paul is Mr John Moore, Swallow Cottage, Weston Road, Bucknell, Shropshire. SY7 0BA
Phone number 01547 530096

Many thanks,
John

[John Moore]

Dear Paul,
The one you have for the L/H side appears to be just the same as my R/H side.
I will put some money over for the glass and the postage, do you have my address?
And I need the bank details so that I can pay you for this item.
Many thanks,
John

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