[Christopher]

My DS has the hydraulic gear change (bvh), not manual, but I have fitted the Harry Martens 5-speed hydraulic box. Harry has created quite a large number of these by taking a late 5-speed manual and fitting a specially doctored 4-speed’lid’. I fitted this 10 years ago and, apart from a worn 3/4 synchro ring, has performed faultlessly. Changing gear initially takes some practice (ie 1-2-3-4-3(5)-4-3-2-1) but it makes for relaxing cruising and probably adds a couple of mpg too. Photos available if of interest.

Chris WILSON – Cydnee 20 Oct 24

Paul, how do I add an image please?

[Christopher]

I have a 1974 DS23 EFI Hyd 5bvh with it’s oil cooler and the regulator fitted to a fore/aft bracket on the left hand side of the gearbox. The 12mm regulator “screw” can be reached, with difficulty, by passing your hand/spanner to the left of the left hand brake caliper. Use a good light and you should spot it.

However, to make life far easier I have cut small rectangular panels out of both the underpan and the left hand brake cooling duct. These apertures are normally closed over with simple, rectangular sheet steel panels some 10mm x 5mm with a simple hook-in at one end and a self tapping screw at the other. The screws fix into speed nuts. So, when I have removed these 2 panels I can see the regulator screw – that I have painted YELLOW for good measure!

I must take a photo next time.
Chris WILSON – Cydnee 20 Oct 24

[Christopher]

Paul,

Well, I have now decoked and have NEW exhaust valves and can now feel confident that valves will (should) not break.

After 20 years in dock your poor old car will need a complete rebuild and so fix it, MoT it and get it on the road. They are wonderful cars and we enjoy ours every week at least

Thank you
Chris 06 Nov 22

[Christopher]

Paul,

Thank you for your comprehensive response. Having owned my car for 14 years and fully restored all of the mechanical and body part myself I continue to carry out all maintenance myself. I have a thorough knowledge of how that wonderful hydraulic system works, including the centrifugal regulator. It is because I have previously adjusted all of the various, interdependent, functions and since checked them, that I remain puzzled by what happened on that embarrassing day out with my local classic car club. For info, I currently have the cylinder head off to replace the original (probably Sodium filled?) exhaust valves with all-steel items to avoid the risk of the heads detaching from the stem with the resulting damaged engine. As with Alan Kemp. Are you aware of this risk. I experienced the same some years ago with a VW Beetle that also used Sodium filled exhaust valves. Regards, Chris 05 Nov 22

[Christopher]

Peter,

Thank you , but no, that was not the cause and the gear was selected correctly. Although I stated “not moving”, in fact I was moving, albeit very, very slowly. If I had been in a normal car I would have feared clutch burn out. However, once at the top of the hill there was no smell at all of clutch burning and so I deduced that the clutch had not been slipping. Experts in the trade tell me it was a “control issue” rather than a lack of power. A mystery that I cannot understand. Chris WILSON 05 Nov 22

[Christopher]

Peter.

See below the Word-printed insert (Jumbled up here after I pasted it!) that I laminated for my left hand 6-way fuse box. It may help.
Regards,
Chris 23 Oct 22

1. Vio LH Dip beam 10A
2. Red Brake, Blowers, Clock, Fuel Gauge, 16A
Tacho, Glovebox, Temp gauge,
Warn/Panel lights, Wipers, Washer
3. Grn Indicators, HRW, Boot / Interior/ 16A
Reversing lights/Cig Ltr
4. Wht RH Dip beam 10A
5. Yel Cig Ltr, No plate, RH Side/Tail/ 16A
Heater/ Ashtray/Panel/Sidelight/
Warn lights
6. Blu LH Side/tail 10A

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